edito

In this the eighth issue, the Acharnœur proposes a «Grand 8» or rollercoaster ride. With loops, big dippers, tight cornering on slippery, moving, funny subjects. If you’re looking for something a little calmer, head for the Avenue where you will find new window displays. Next issue on February 6th.

truc_du_jour

none

  • 08- News qui court 02

    January 31th. The Disney's Studios present PAPERMAN, the latest short movie nominated for the Oscars Ceremony. Six minutes about love, poetry and magic! See the movie

respect
  • 08- Respect

    Marion Cotillard. Via forthosewhocravefashion

SHAMELESS

 

So... She came back from the Golden Globes empty-handed and she isn’t nominated for an Oscar much to the delight of the internet who have been « meme-ing » her for quite some time, especially since Batman.

But... There is much to be said about Marion Cotillard. You can find her comments about 9/11 totally irresponsible and idiotic, you may find her commitment to the environment irritating, you may think of her as a crazed bobo («bourgeois-bohème»). But you can’t say she’s a bad actress and be happy when she is left off the list for awards and nominations.

She was breathtaking in «Un long dimanche de fiançailles». Poignant and surprising. She walked off with the César and everyone thought she deserved it. Then she met the «Môme». Do we really need to go back over her performance and the list of awards that is hard to beat? Do we really need to point out how proud we all were when she won the Oscar? French pride got a serious boost and everyone enjoyed it.

So what then? She has chosen to work aboard, more often in front of American cameras then French ones. Her choice of films is not always « auteur » driven and she does not always excel… But she is still a good actress. Even in The Dark Night Rises and despite the failed death scene. Having said that, is that Marion Cotillard’s fault or Christopher Nolan’s? The jury’s still out.

What ever happens, it can’t be helped. She gives us so much joy and makes us so proud that we can’t forgive her when she is human and makes a mistake. Marion Cotillard is suffering from «Laure Manaudou syndrome», a strange phenomenon that allows for no weakness, no error… Our heroes must be perfect, whatever happens. Unless that syndrome is that of the dirty pleasure of begrudging too much success? Luckily, Marion Cotillard ignores these mean spirited reactions and comments. She says so herself, and she is not acting. Well played! 

Marie Veyrier
 
• If you missed her in «Un long dimanche de fiançailles»
 
 
beurk
  • 08- Beurk

    © Anne Petrequin, "Trame des Made in".

RIP-OFF

It is being talked about, but perhaps not loud enough. So many people don’t realise that the «Made in» label is one of the biggest rip-off of our times.

What exactly does this certification mean? According to the custom and excise, it means that «merchandise (…) is from the country where its last transformation took place». In short, the buttons on the jeans were made in Thailand, the fabric was cut and dyed in Turkey but they were put together in Spain? The jeans will be labelled «Made in Spain». It’s only logical. We just didn’t realise that the assembly was the most significant stage; the actual manufacturing is just a detail.

Thankfully, for certain products, what takes precedence is the country «that represents an important step in the manufacturing process». But the evaluation criteria are on a case by case basis, which makes this estimation very shady indeed. Economic repercussions also remain a determining factor. Take planes, for example. Airbus assembles some of its planes in China but they are presented them as having come from European factories. Great. 

So behind this international and worryingly official rip-off, the consumer is the one who loses out. In terms of buying power first of all. By stamping «Made in Italy» on a pair of shoes, the producer shamelessly plays on that country’s good reputation to push up the prices. So while the client thinks he or she is buying «quality leather» or from a «specialist shoe manufacturer», they are actually getting «quickly stitched» and «weak materials» from somewhere else entirely. The repercussions are not only in the pocket however. Imagine you carefully choose products that are «made in…» in order to avoid toxic materials, to fight child labour, support sustainable development… And in fact are doing to opposite without knowing. Who can guarantee that is not the case?

Obviously governments are reacting, a little.
So, a word for the owners of the big fashion corporations: While you are fighting the war against fakes, and so you should, couldn’t you also bring your considerable clout to bear on establishing clear rules, which would, of course be to your advantage? Unless this has been the case for a long time already…

Bianca Alberti


• Thanks to Anne Petrequin for these details from her masterpiece "Trame des Made in". Here, from Salzburg to Zaragosa. From l'Île de Groix to Bangladesh. De Chine à Panama.

 
 
billard

PUBLIC RELATIONS

«Journalism leads to everything, as long as you get out of it» is something we’ve heard for years. Claude Sérillon, a television personality has just been named advisor to the President and Sylvie Pierre-Brossolette, editor of the «Point», has joined the CSA (Conseil Supérieur de l'Audiovisuel). Obviously, Sérillon has always been overtly left-wing, but with his appointment, we now have an ex-primetime news anchor in the Élysée. The symbol is huge. As for Sylvie Pierre-Brossolette, further to the right, the elegance of her discerning mind has always shone brightly. She is a remarkable debater and she will be missed from the ranks of the profession.

These two transfers maintain the level of role confusion and cross-pollination. Journalists and politicians have always been close. The issue here is, in the context of what we refer to as «communication», the term that covers a multitude of cases, the boundaries are blurred. The comings and goings between the media and official institutions encourage ambiguity.

Comings and goings? «Journalism leads to everything…» And now it will take anything as long as you can get in… Roselyne Bachelot, ex-minister, has just converted to television presenting on D8, beside Laurence Ferrari and Audrey Pulvar. A move in the opposite direction which would lead us to believe that the shift from one job to another only takes one little step when in fact the state of mind needed is the complete opposite. Being a journalist means being a professional sceptic. Being a politician is being a professional militant. 

By the way, aren’t François Hollande and Valérie Trierweiler the worrying incarnation of this cohabitation?

Maurice Achard
 
 
floraison
Un livre, un film, une musique... quelques années, décennies ou siècles plus tard.
Quand la culture n’en finit pas de fleurir.
  • 08- Floraison

    Nastassja Kinski and Harry Dean Stanton in Paris Texas by Wim Wenders.

AFTER HOPPER

Edward Hopper still has the power to fascinate as is evident from the show at the Grand Palais, and if you wish to linger a little longer in his world, you only need to see one film: «Paris, Texas» by Wim Wenders suggested by the exhibition itself. A film where every shot seems to be inspired by the painter’s hyper-realist take: America’s middle of nowhere.

The film is full of unforgettable scenes, shot in bright and dark lights. Emotions are reawakened by Ry Cooder’s piercing slide guitar.

So from the first frame, we see a man emerging from the desert, we know nothing about him. We find out a few things later on. He walks under the watchful eye of an eagle on a rock… Wandering, searching, straight off the bat. From the Mexican border to Houston via Los Angeles. The road, motels, huge billboards, day and night. The plot doesn’t matter, only the characters count, they carry the story. Like with Hooper.
Further on, the man, who is called Travis (Harry Dean Stanton) stands in front of the window in a bedroom and pulls the curtain…

Further on again, a night club bathed in red light and the moving peep-show scene where Travis finds Jane (Nastassja Kinski), the mother of his son. 
This takes place in the suburbs of Houston, not far from its blaze of neon signs, its spaghetti junctions. In this Texas, where a small southern town is called Paris, where Travis owns a plot of land.

«Paris, Texas», Palme d'Or in Cannes in 1984, a cult film, a legendary film. The road movie to end all road movies where Wim Wenders took Edward Hooper along with him for the ride.

As if to direct the light…

M.A.
 
• Just for pleasure to see an extract

 

Métaphore

IN HAND

When art meets accessories it can produce strange and sublime everyday objects. The illustrator’s fine and zany lines suggests underground tattoo parlours and a fantastic and macroscopic vision of botany. A series signed Cyrto.

One-off pieces. Totally artistic approach. To find out more, see our Avenue section.

foodoir
  • 08- Foodoir

    © Boyer, Jean-Paul/the food passionates/Corbis

POT LUCK!

The cold has arrived in the bleak midwinter. It is time to «mettre le pot au feu» (put the pot on the fire). According to a worldwide ancestral practice of meat boiled in a big recipient, pot-au-feu combines household advantages that are greatly appreciated in rural life. If only through its slow cooking method that keeps a pleasant ambient temperature, not to mention the nutritional benefits!

The «pot-au-feu» is a dish that doesn’t cost much but is extremely tasty, using the cheaper cuts of beef, combining lean meat (shoulder…), gelatinous meat (topside, steak…) and slightly fatty meat (flank, brisket…), to which is added bones with marrow. All immersed in a big pot of water with a few vegetables (carrots, leeks, onions stuck with cloves) and herbs. So in preparation terms, the pot au feu is easy and quick, but cooking time is very long, at least four hours – or more, it will only get better. In the olden days, it was left to simmer continuously all day in the fireplace or in the oven. This meant it could do a few meals, with extra ingredients added along the way to replace those that had been eaten. The stock was used as a soup that was thickened with noodles, rice or toasted bread. 

Today this diversification is back in fashion, presented with a few refinements: for example ravioli in the stock. So it’s hard to understand why this traditional French dish, so popular with foreigners, is disappearing from the menus of restaurants claiming to serve traditional, old style meals. So, it can only be found very rarely in certain places like «Chez la Vieille “Adrienne“» since the ovens have been taken over by young people, however talented they may be. And it is off the menu altogether at the Balzar, the famous Latin Quarter brasserie, that once thrilled tourists with its pot-au-feu «today’s special». But apparently, pot-au-feu is not considered that special anymore. What a pity, as a good pot-au-feu «smiles» according to Jean-Pierre Coffe* about the cooking stock… And a smile warms the heart.

Elido

* Jean-Pierre Coffe, « SOS Cuisine », éditions Stock, 2006

  

FUTUR PAST

 

It’s exactly what we need every night. Three minutes of palaeontology, like three drops of a homeopathic cure. So we’re not so scared of the future. On Arte at 20h45.

We feel better straight away thanks to the title of the cartoon adapted from the famous strip of the same name. «Silex and the city». Nicely put. 

The action takes place 40 000 years before Jesus Christ. We find ourselves in a sort of village from back then. But at a time when, strangely, they already had 20th century problems. With an adolescent that looks a lot like ours, in hair and speech terms anyway. His name is Web…

Fire, the only energy source, is suspected of over-heating the planet. Hunting creates executive training issues. And the birth of the wheel is seen as the start of a technological revolution. It is hilarious and, above all, it relaxes the mind, a mind tormented with the uncertainties of the future.

«Silex» is like a lesson about the evolution of the species, society, the world. On the irreversible movement of progress, on progress as an obvious move…

This daily clip, drawn with clear lines, has the knack of wearing down our little resistances, our little conservatisms, linked to change in general.

It is a trip «back to the future» showing usthat we are already in our own pre-history and it was always better way back when. Until it gets good, at last…

M.A.
 
 

 

L'Avenue
LA BOUTIQUE EN LIGNE DE L'ACHARNŒUR.
Pour en savoir plus sur les pièces uniques ou
en édition limitée, cliquez sur les différentes vitrines!

Cyrto

Cyrto is extremely shy and prefers the shadows to the light. She is an illustrator and graphic artist and is spending more and more time on her true calling: creating fantastic worlds from her own emotion, impulse and imagination. She invents but does not reinvent. She follows no trend or influence but instead takes all her inspiration from her inner self. Her uniquely artistic approach will soon be visible through her writing and directing.

 

CYRTO GLOVES

 

The whole idea comes from the glove as second skin. Cyrto creates indelible designs on gloves evoking ramifications, sketches… connections. Each piece is unique and comes only from her imagination. There are no rules, no hierarchy, the cells form every instant and grow together through paths and encounters. Her lines tell of a fantastic world that is almost invisible to the naked eye. Between tattoo art and a pseudo-botanic vision, the lines of the hand take on a new meaning.

 

Gloves made to order. 

 

The approach is entirely artistic. The final piece is handed over in exchange for an envelope in which the client « gives » the amount they wish.

 

The Acharnœur will act as intermediary but takes no commission. For more information: avenue@acharnoeur.com

Illustration from Cyrto Art.

Caractéristiques produit

- Light-coloured gloves supplied by the client
- Unique drawings done in indelible ink 
- Time required: two weeks
- Price of piece fixed by the client
- Delivery costs extra (6€ minimum for France)

Let It Be - 63€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

 

THE LET IT BE SELECTION
FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from soft leather and white metal, it is both chic and gothic, ultra-precious and rock and roll. The clasp dresses the wrist with a refinement and originality that attracts all women, regardless of their age or style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur and also available without the skull.

 

Price: 63€ with skull.
58€ without skull.

Without skull item or with a bow also avalaible.

Caractéristiques produit

- Leather bracelet
- Bracelet chain in plate silver
- Skull clasp in stainless Zamac 
- Sizes available: 32cm, 34 or 36cm (made-to-measure on request)

Aline Lang - 80€

Aline Lang is a photographer and graphic artist who one day, for fun, drew a bracelet watch like a piece of film. A designer at Cartier, Omega, liked it and oriented her into watch face design. Her first watch was for the bicentenary of the French revolution. Since then she has designed over forty watches, including one for the Bibliothèque nationale. Her rare and unusual creations are born from her inspiration and are produced as limited editions.

 

THE ACHARNŒUR’S SELECTION

 

The Gallops watch. An homage to chronophotography (the decomposition of a movement by a succession of photographs) and to Muybridge’s work that in 1878, proved that the four legs of a horse leave the ground at the same time when the horse gallops. This watch was first made by a big luxury house before being edited by the Musée d’Orsay. Its leather bracelet and particularly flat face makes this version timeless.

 

Limited edition. 10 pieces available.
Price: 80 €.

Gallops Watch

Caractéristiques produit

- Case in chromed brass
- Black leather bracelet 
- Quartz movement
- Made in France, Alsace.

A venir

None

Gabriella de Galzain - 125€

She used to work under the name «Frénétik». Today Gabriella de Galzain is coming out of hiding and is launching her eponymous brand. She makes baroque, romantic, rock n’ roll jewellery that expresses a bohemian spirit of elegance and freedom, paying homage to the most beautiful icons. Her undeniable talent can be seen in brooches, necklaces, earrings, cuff-links… She counts many stars among her greatest fans and some of her pieces tell the most beautiful stories. 

 

A GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

We requested an homage to the Eiffel Tower. Only for l'Acharnœur, Gabriella de Galzain came up with this timeless yet contemporary brooch. The blend of off-whites means it can be worn at all times. Pearls, chains, crystals, ceramic flowers… The codes of elegance and femininity with an essential touch of impertinence. All the audacity of the “Grand Dame” herself.


Item made to order. 
Special price: 125€ taxes inclued

«La Parisienne» brooch

Caractéristiques produit

- Resin beading and icons
- Resin flowers, glass cabochon, crystal Swarovski rhinestones
- Base in silver-plated copper
- Silver-plated brass chains
- Icon high : 10cm
- Total high (with chains) : 24 cm 

A venir

None
corruption
Ils nous ont demandé d'en parler.
Comme on a aimé ce qu’ils proposaient, on l’a fait... À notre façon !
  • 07- Corruption

THE HONEY AND THE BEES

So you want to be in great shape to get through the darker winter months ? A good spoonful or spread of honey on your toast has always provided some much-needed vitality… Except, if things go on like this, honey will end up as a luxury product ! Go on like what ? Not protecting our bees. They are coming under serious threat : parasites, pesticides… Sad !

In an attempt to stop the plague, a number of companies have been set up to propose the adoption of hives. A bucolic and poetic concept that also happens to be effective! Interested ? Well, check out monmiel.fr.

To begin with, the founder is a true nature and bee-lover. He buys land and small parcels of forest to set up his hives in protected environments. He ensures the sources of pollen in the environs and lets the bees work away as they wish: free, with their own rhythms and feeding on all flowers. 
Then, monmiel.fr has a very clear offer: either you sponsor a number of bees – and as such a part of the swarm – or you adopt a full hive. If you choose the latter option, the ruche « belongs » to you for as long as you wish: you can name it, choose the colour, the shape and no-one else can adopt the same hive (which is not always the case elsewhere). You are kept abreast of all developments, photos are sent… A nice way of doing things!

What happens to the honey? It’s all yours ! according to the formula you choose, you will receive a certain number of pots that are, in the case of an adoption, labelled with the name of your hive ! They are sent to your home after harvest which takes place only once the bees have finished working. The bees decide, no-one else… 

The final bonus, the cost. It covers, for the main part, the manufacturing of the French-made wooden hives, to buy equipment, pots, maintain the land… Nothing excessive. So there’s no sting in the tail…

M.V.

 

• For more informations : www.monmiel.fr

• Little gift for l'Acharnœur readers' : sponsor 4000 bees or adopt a full hive in "formule "Découverte", one honey pot in sup is offert.

  

Idylle

DÉCO ÉLÉMENTS

8 like the Acharnœur’s 8th issue. 8 like the lucky number in China. On this service it becomes an invitation, a clue, an address… Careful! Soon to be a collector’s item!


From 4,83€ for a tea cup. For sale at Déco Éléments, 150 rue Ordener, 75018 Paris.


station

GLOVE MAKER - PARIS
Métro Madeleine or Mabillon
Line 12 or 10

They are more than just in the news. Between the cold and our artist on the Avenue, gloves are the essential accessory. Whether you want them lined with cashmere or silk, fur-lined with rabbit skin or simple leather or wool, JB Guanti has all styles and all types. From glamorous to traditional, for women and men… Cut and handmade in Italy, they smell of good quality ad sometimes have an original touch. In the store, the salespeople are at your disposal to take the time needed to find the perfect pair and the after sales service is impeccable.

 jbguanti.fr - Two stores in Paris :
18 rue Tronchet, 75008 Paris?
59 rue de Rennes, 75006 Paris

  • 08- Station
quotidien
  • 08- Quotibien

    From "Max" by Giovannetti, l'Ecole des loisirs.

FLIPPING MARVELLOUS!

Feel like an evening that involves a «team effort» ? Perfect! February 2nd is the «Chandeleur» when the French eat pancakes. One day when everyone wants to make the batter, all the better for the kitchen, frying pans, sticky hands and musical chairs! Among other things…

It begins with the recipe. Nothing easier ? Not so fast, there’s the «well» you have to make in the flour for the eggs and the milk that has to be added slowly while you beat. If it goes in too fast it splashes everywhere and the flour flies around the kitchen… Too slowly and you’re sure to get lumps. 

Then comes the cooking. The first one is always a song and dance. It inevitably sticks to the pan and ends up looking like… nothing, so into the bin ! It always takes a few tries before the heat and the amount is just right to avoid making them too thick or too thin!

Then the fun starts. Everyone has their own way of filling pancakes and the person slaving over the hot stove has to work hard to keep up with the demand. There is always an empty chair at the table, that of the cook. Some keep going with the savoury when others are already on the sweet. Everything gets sticky, between melted cheese, sugar, jam…

But time flies when you’re having fun! And anything goes. Children are allowed to cook, the tradition says that the pancake is flipped by the right hand while holding a piece of gold in the left, promising prosperity all year round if the pancake lands well, the pancake that sticks to the ceiling, the one that lands on the floor, the constant movement around the table, the fat and carb-laden ingredients needed, the excitement, the laughter… No kids ? Whatever ! Find your inner one this February 2nd !

M.V.

 
 
junior_suite
Ce que les placards, les murs ou les tiroirs de notre chambre d'adolescent
racontent sur nous aujourd'hui.
  • 08- junior Suite 3

    Photo © Joe McDonald/Corbis

ROOM WITH A VIEW

My room always seemed to be surprisingly tidy and sparse to new visitors. And there was a reason ! My father was a soldier so his occupational hazard rubbed off on me. But mostly because we were sent abroad every two years so the main issue was to «keep the essentials» and say goodbye to the Playmobil house or other bulky toys that didn’t fit in the moving boxes.

The first time at age 7, it broke my heart, as I probably had the messy gene and accumulating useless objects was my thing. But getting older I soon became a pro at efficient tidying and emotional detachment from my toys. I used to sell my services as a pro tidier to my friends for sweets and toffee bars. I soon had a huge stock, my reputation preceded me… I even got into the habit of showing off before each departure abroad, passing on my sacrificed toys with false bravery! 

It has to be said, my mother was an expert in making things easier for me and my brother, making the unknown country we were about to go to sound like a dream… We couldn’t argue with her pre-departure overtures ; «Well kids, I know you had to say goodbye to your meccano and your Barbies, BUT there is a real gazelle in our garden in Djibouti». Thankfully she had done her homework, she wasn’t just getting our hopes up. In fact, the next two years I spent more time in the garden trying to butter up that gazelle than playing in my room.

There were to be many other fascinating destinations to replace the toys of my childhood. Today, the result is a taste for minimalist interiors and itchy feet! I’ve lived between London and Paris for twenty years and I dream of Asia. However, I remain the little girl that could never let go of her little bear throughout her nomadic youth. He still lies proudly on my bed. And after every trip, I’m always glad to get back to him.

Stéphanie Norris, from an interview with Denise M.
 
 
 

Collaborateurs

  • Directrice de la Publication et de la Rédaction
    Virginie Achard
  • Directrice Artistique
    Perrine Lebas
  • Concepteur web
    Franck Biehler
  • Chroniqueurs
    Maurice Achard, Bianca Alberti, Bruno Lancelot, Elido, Marie Veyrier, Stéphanie Norris
  • Traductrice
    Tresi Murphy

Invités

PHOTOGRAPHE METAPHORE
Cyrto

PHOTOGRAPHES ÉDITORIAL
Odile Berthemy, l'Acharnœur