edito

Number 11. International Women’s Day falls during this issue. However, the Acharnoeur doesn’t forget men from Metaphor to Idyll to Yuck, to mention but a few. In fact, like every issue, the Acharnoeur covers all sexes and ages. Running the gamut of all our emotions. Next issue out on March 20th.

truc_du_jour

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  • 11- news qui court 10

    The sky is gray to start the week? Another way of talking about a Monday in the sun ... The pictures aren't pretentious and the song is a moment of lightness! Discover "Blue Monday" by Nouvelle Vague

respect
  • 11- Respect

    Source: terrible-reflection.tumblr.com

MORE TEARS

 A drop streaming down a cheek, following its own path. Never the same journey. Never the same story. They’re called tears and they get some really bad press as they can only be a sign of weakness, anger, depression, hysteria, sadness, too much joy. Because they can only be the expression of uncontrolled emotions. And that is just not the done thing. To show one’s emotions. Worse, not to be able to control them. 

The phenomenon is not new. But it’s getting worse. Even at funerals, we get the impression that tears are only authorised at certain times and for certain people. A sort of code of conduct. And to think that even when we are alone, we still don’t let ourselves go, let out whatever is bothering us. What is happening? 

OK, not crying means a certain level of self-control. At the moment, a stiff upper lip can be essential. We are dealing with so much adversity and hard knocks and only the strongest will survive. What rubbish! It’s getting the wrong end of the stick altogether! Having said that, pain can make even the toughest of us cry. Unfortunately they don’t even benefit from it as tears of «irritation» are not the same as tears of emotion. The latter don’t just flow for any old reason. They contain a concentration of proteins and hormones – which is why women cry more easily than men – like leucine enkephalin and adrenocorticotropic hormone (natural analgesics). They even contain beta-endorphins! In short, while tears can at times be paralysing – can’t talk, move, breathe…, the effects are felt afterwards: a calm descends, all tensions and irritations have been evacuated, the real you reappears. Sometimes things are even clearer! Happy days!

But all of these scientific theories have some serious competition from cultural diktats. So let’s just say it: crying is beautiful. It means you’re alive. It’s brave. It is a way to shout out loud what you’re feeling, for yourself to start with. It also means remembering important moments. Crying is not setting oneself free, but feeling free. Too easy? Let’s begin by learning how to bawl again.

Marie Veyrier  
 
beurk
  • 11- Beurk

    Source : thefutureisqueer.tumblr.com

SEX ABUSE

March 8th is International Women’s Day! Unfortunately it won’t be a party. These 24 hours are there to remind us about all of the battles yet to be won around the world so that women finally attain a respectable and respected status. Many ideas and points of view are being proposed. From feminists to start with. Whoa! 

Let’s get things straight. Since the end of the 19th century and in particular in the nineteen seventies, they were the ones who defended essential rights tooth and nail, like the right to vote, to a decent education, to do what one wanted with one’s own body… And while there are many battles still to be won, they are creating new ones that are not necessarily those of the women on today. We could even go as far as to say that these battles are seriously starting to weigh down our daily lives and our femininity. 

Wanting to be the absolute equal to men at all costs means that these feminists hamstring our desire to sometimes be a fragile woman looking for refuge in the arms of a manly man ; they oppress our need to be treated differently, to be treated with deference for example (a protective one), or gallantly by men who no longer dare to for fear of insulting us ; they condemn our choices to be stay-at-home mothers as to them, this can only be demeaning ; they force us to call ourselves Madame when we were thrilled to be still referred to as Mademoiselle. They make us feel guilty for not being vindictive or castrating enough… 

What do they want us to be? It all depends on what feminists, which adds to the confusion. When some reprimand the slightest use of the female body as an advertising ploy, others bare their breasts to support their cause. The resulting confusion is a pain in the tits. 

But what do we want to be? It would be impossible to list all of the women’s rights issues that still need to be supported. But we don’t want to make men our number one enemy. We have no wish to torture them in their virility. We want to be proud of our sensuality and the looks we get, that can also be flattering. Above all, we want to be able to say stop when we don’t agree with their protests, or that we don’t feel concerned by their terrorist-like demands. After all, freedom of speech and thought is a fundamental right, no? We won’t be long finding out.

Virginie Achard
 
billard

BIO
PICK

As a cinematic genre, the biopic is doing quite well at the moment. The current crop is both rich and instructive.

It  covers famous people from diverse eras and worlds. From Marie-Antoinette to Claude François («Cloclo» nominated for a César) not to mention Edith Piaf. Shooting on «Grace de Monaco» (by the director of «La Môme») has just ended, with films on Yves Saint-Laurent (two competing versions on the way!), Steve Jobs and Steve McQueen in the works…

But the biopic is an ambitious species that, in recent weeks, has shown its will to broaden its visual field of investigation. Two films, «Lincoln» and «Hitchcock» do much more than merely tell the story of two great men. The former teaches us about the end of the American Civil War and the abolition of slavery. The latter about the shooting of Psycho, one of the film-maker’s masterpieces and notably on the complex process of making the famous shower scene work. 

«Lincoln» (Oscar winning) by Steven Spielberg is a lesson in history.
«Hitchcock» by Sacha Gervasi is a lesson in film.

And what if the biopic was the new school? 
- What biopic do we have this afternoon?
- History.

Maurice Achard

 
floraison
Un livre, un film, une musique... quelques années, décennies ou siècles plus tard.
Quand la culture n’en finit pas de fleurir.
  • 11- Floraison 2

    Together in a song. But never in picture...

EMBLEMATIC DUO

Madonna and Prince on the same track. No, we’re not crazy, this really happened. The song dates from 1989; it’s called «Love Song» from the «Like a Prayer»* album. The queen of pop with the «prince» of pop, together for over four minutes… And the song practically went under the radar altogether! Strange things happen sometimes…

«Love Song» is not what some might call a classic. But what a trip! Madonna starts off in French : «Vous êtes prêts ?». The way she used to provocatively start many of her shows. And we really are ready ! The sound of a jet engine invites us along for the ride, and we’re off... Both voices at the same time. Slightly off-putting. Then they split up to get a dialogue going. Madonna’s voice is astonishingly pure – less «synthesised» than it is today but also less nasal than at the time, she dares to go high as if Prince was encouraging her to explore other landscapes that seem to suit her. As for Prince’s voice, still suave, still sexy, from octave to octave, still…

They tell a criss-crossed story. They look for each other, asking for answers. In fact, «Love Song» is not a love song but a «cards on the table» song. The beginning of a story or a break-up ? They don’t seem to know themselves, they are circling the issue. The music accentuates this as the tune repeats over and over. It sticks in the mind like the obsessive questions of  love in trouble. Rich in little unexpected sounds, it ends up taking us elsewhere. There is a touch of irritation, in both his voice and hers. And when she tells him, in French yet again, «Embrasse-moi, pour la dernière fois», we are swept away with them and their ultimatum. 

It’s a strange thing. As if the two geniuses allowed themselves a moment of intimacy. Without overdoing it for more authenticity. A track that you should hear. Are you ready? 

V.A.
 
Listen to the track on youtube
Buy the track in MP3 on amazon
* Like a Prayer from Madonna, Warner / Sire Records Company, 1989
 
 
Métaphore

VEGETAL BONDAGE

If  the art of bondage provokes all sorts of reactions – physical or emotional, that of Thomas Duval should above all surprise, seduce and make you smile. And there is something for everyone, not just for their taste in fruits or vegetables. To be savoured.

Agent : Noucha Shahbazi - lebookmaker.com

foodoir
  • 11- Foodoir 2

    Une cuisson qui inspira à Papin la Machine à vapeur © J.P. Pinchon

FULL STEAM AHEAD

All of human intelligence and its capacity for invention are to be found between the raw and the cooked. Cooking means transformation. How things have evolved since fire was discovered ! In those days, man created the first ever barbecue by grilling meat on an open fire… without worrying about unhealthy hydrocarbons! But these days, for health reasons, all types of cooking are analysed according to their advantages and disadvantages. The aim is to reinforce, or at least preserve, the food’s nutritional qualities. For example, activating the vitamins that are latent in certain vegetables (broccoli), or enriching meat’s protein levels.

Over the centuries, cooking methods have become legion: on the pan, steaming, in a casserole, in a papillote, in the oven, in a wok, in the microwave, etc. Best practice prize goes to steaming as it retains the natural qualities and taste of each food. Boiling draws out minerals and vitamins, but they can be recovered in the cooking water. The oven destroys vitamins but at least preserves minerals, and for poultry concentrates juices under the skin which becomes crunchy. Grilling provides a delicious holiday taste but is, however, a violent method and not very healthy, no more than the frying pan and we won’t even go into deep-frying. The worst, we now know, is micro-waving… This is most likely why the instructions for frozen meals mention traditional oven cooking more and more, to the detriment of the micro-wave that is just there for re-heating or defrosting. The only problem is that the speed of the micro-wave oven has made it an essential part of our overly rushed lives. 

Because cooking takes time. And time is money – all the more so since gas and electricity have become so expensive ! So we feel like suggesting to scientists that they come up with a solar-powered cooker that could provide heat it has absorbed from being beside a window. Seeing as you can’t stop progress !

Elido
 

SELF-SERVICE

With the arrival of the TNT (digital television) and the proliferation of little channels, television has become like a sort of kiosk. Young viewers, notably the 15-25 tick box are having fun with the new system, catching programmes on the hop that become big hits, for a time anyway. 

These spontaneous choices, for some of them, become real «obsessions». For example «Les Ch'tis», on W9, who travel the world over (Las Vegas followed on from Mykonos) is the very example of the type of reality TV that people get addicted to. Even though they are aware of how useless it is. And when they talk about the programme among themselves, the tone is one of in-jokey complicity, they take it as pure entertainment, a break from school or college headaches.

Others – mainly girls – never miss Cyril Hanouna presenting «Touche pas à mon poste» on D8, a daily show about what’s happening on…TV.
Then, another genre is the series, like Gossip Girl. The finale went out on HD1 last week much to the chagrin of the faithful (who are already consoling themselves with the DVD).

These «new TV watchers» have a totally different relationship with these programmes compared to previous generations. Above all compared to the sixties-seventies generation who considered there to be such a thing as «bad» TV (all American series except «Colombo»…) and «good» TV («drama», literary programmes, cine-clubs…).

These teenagers and young adults hop from one thing to another, from the TV to the computer. Podcasts encourage them to put together their own viewing programme. They blend everything, without  worrying about dumbing down or intellectual posing, carried by a flow of images, stopping to watch whatever they like, according to the moment and their mood. They learned to swim early… And to keep their head above water.

M.A.
 
L'Avenue
LA BOUTIQUE EN LIGNE DE L'ACHARNŒUR.
Pour en savoir plus sur les pièces uniques ou
en édition limitée, cliquez sur les différentes vitrines!

Aline Lang - 80€

Aline Lang is a photographer and graphic artist who one day, for fun, drew a bracelet watch like a piece of film. A designer at Cartier, Omega, liked it and oriented her into watch face design. Her first watch was for the bicentenary of the French revolution. Since then she has designed over forty watches, including one for the Bibliothèque nationale. Her rare and unusual creations are born from her inspiration and are produced as limited editions.

 

THE ACHARNŒUR’S SELECTION

 

The Gallops watch. An homage to chronophotography (the decomposition of a movement by a succession of photographs) and to Muybridge’s work that in 1878, proved that the four legs of a horse leave the ground at the same time when the horse gallops. This watch was first made by a big luxury house before being edited by the Musée d’Orsay. Its leather bracelet and particularly flat face makes this version timeless.

 

Limited edition. 10 pieces available.
Price: 80 €.

Gallops Watch

Caractéristiques produit

- Case in chromed brass
- Black leather bracelet 
- Quartz movement
- Made in France, Alsace.

Let It Be Men - 54€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

 

THE LET IT BE SELECTION
FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from leather and white magnetic metal, it is both male and chic, elegant and rock and roll. Perfect alliance between sobriety and confirmed style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur.

 

Price: 54€ 

Caractéristiques produit

- Leather bracelet with "piqûre selleir"
- Magnetic clasp in silvered Zamac 
- Sizes available: 20cm or 22cm (made-to-measure on request)

Cyrto

Cyrto is extremely shy and prefers the shadows to the light. She is an illustrator and graphic artist and is spending more and more time on her true calling: creating fantastic worlds from her own emotion, impulse and imagination. She invents but does not reinvent. She follows no trend or influence but instead takes all her inspiration from her inner self. Her uniquely artistic approach will soon be visible through her writing and directing.

 

CYRTO GLOVES

 

The whole idea comes from the glove as second skin. Cyrto creates indelible designs on gloves evoking ramifications, sketches… connections. Each piece is unique and comes only from her imagination. There are no rules, no hierarchy, the cells form every instant and grow together through paths and encounters. Her lines tell of a fantastic world that is almost invisible to the naked eye. Between tattoo art and a pseudo-botanic vision, the lines of the hand take on a new meaning.

 

Gloves made to order. 

 

The approach is entirely artistic. The final piece is handed over in exchange for an envelope in which the client « gives » the amount they wish.

 

The Acharnœur will act as intermediary but takes no commission. For more information: avenue@acharnoeur.com

Illustration from Cyrto Art.

Caractéristiques produit

- Light-coloured gloves supplied by the client
- Unique drawings done in indelible ink 
- Time required: two weeks
- Price of piece fixed by the client
- Delivery costs extra (6€ minimum for France)

Let It Be - 63€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

 

THE LET IT BE SELECTION
FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from soft leather and white metal, it is both chic and gothic, ultra-precious and rock and roll. The clasp dresses the wrist with a refinement and originality that attracts all women, regardless of their age or style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur and also available without the skull.

 

Price: 63€ with skull.
58€ without skull.

Without skull item or with a bow also avalaible.

Caractéristiques produit

- Leather bracelet
- Bracelet chain in plate silver
- Skull clasp in stainless Zamac 
- Sizes available: 32cm, 34 or 36cm (made-to-measure on request)

A venir

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Gabriella de Galzain - 125€

She used to work under the name «Frénétik». Today Gabriella de Galzain is coming out of hiding and is launching her eponymous brand. She makes baroque, romantic, rock n’ roll jewellery that expresses a bohemian spirit of elegance and freedom, paying homage to the most beautiful icons. Her undeniable talent can be seen in brooches, necklaces, earrings, cuff-links… She counts many stars among her greatest fans and some of her pieces tell the most beautiful stories. 

 

A GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

We requested an homage to the Eiffel Tower. Only for l'Acharnœur, Gabriella de Galzain came up with this timeless yet contemporary brooch. The blend of off-whites means it can be worn at all times. Pearls, chains, crystals, ceramic flowers… The codes of elegance and femininity with an essential touch of impertinence. All the audacity of the “Grand Dame” herself.


Item made to order. 
Special price: 125€ taxes inclued

«La Parisienne» brooch

Caractéristiques produit

- Resin beading and icons
- Resin flowers, glass cabochon, crystal Swarovski rhinestones
- Base in silver-plated copper
- Silver-plated brass chains
- Icon high : 10cm
- Total high (with chains) : 24 cm 

corruption
Ils nous ont demandé d'en parler.
Comme on a aimé ce qu’ils proposaient, on l’a fait... À notre façon !
  • 12- Corruption

    Photo © Calaggio

GET YOUR KIT ON!

The French say one must be happy in one’s trainers to be happy in one’s head. What about in-between? To be happy in one’s head, why not be happy in one’s boxers or tangas? Dumb? Not so dumb when you think of what badly fitting underwear can cause: friction, strange walking… 

The brand Calaggio was set up in 2011 to put an end to this kind of problem and give underwear the honour and originality it deserves. The undeniable difference? The cut. Whatever the model, there is no stitching on the back or the sides. An exclusive manufacturing method that provides extreme comfort whether you are moving or sitting. Another strong point? The material. Each item is made from certified high level Lycra, a light and particularly soft material that guarantees a real second skin effect. On the design front, the pop, cosmopolitan or unusual motifs of the collections bring both oomph and elegance. For simple personal pleasure. For the most part they are designed by 

Aurélie Barbier, Calaggio’s founder and evoke all kinds of escape. The essentials are called  Islands, Ti Punch, New York, London Color or Morpho. Soon, a new model will be joining the ranks each month to provide a little variation and boost the too traditional seasonal model. In the meantime, you can take part in a raffle the first Thursday of every month to win a pair of boxers or a shorty. Calaggio means a certain spirit, an energy, a generosity...

And some of their faithful clients agree wholeheartedly. They include, Joffrey Pollet-Villard, freestyle skiing champion or Maxime Habran, biathlon champion. The latter even threw out all of his other underwear when he tried Calaggio and now won’t wear anything else, when competing at the highest level or off the piste! Another devotee is freestyle snowboarding champion Mirabelle Thovex.

Tempted ? Rendezvous on www.calaggio.com. There is an exclusive offer for Acharnœur readers, so it would be a real pity to just be “happy in your trainers”.

Bianca Alberti

• To see the collection on www.calaggio.com 
• For the Acharnœur's readers, a reduction of 25% for any purchase on the website with code "acharnoeur 2013"

 

Idylle

BAGUE ANELLO CAVIGLIA

As this is the year of the snake, fans of legends will be thrilled by the vermillion eye on this particularly formidable piece. Even Adam couldn’t resist this!

 238€. Available on www.marquesactuelles.com


station

CONCEPT STORE - BOULOGNE
Metro Marcel Sembat
Ligne 9

Redbrick walls, Sneakers under glass and big bikes. Welcome to Tough Cookie Shop, a location that attracts through its concept as much as its edgy references. So, what can you buy ? « B.I.G » cookies, morning coffee, evening drinks and mostly a clothes section where artist’s pieces rub shoulders with ready-to-wear. You can even get a tattoo… A vintage and innovative approach for a broadly influenced, carefully cultivated cocktail. A Brooklynesque address in Boulogne. A real treat for the curious and the regulars!

Tough Cookie Shop
17, rue d'Issy 
92100 Boulogne-Billancourt

 
  • 11- Station
quotidien
  • 11- Quotichien

    House of stairs © M.C Escher

THE INFERNAL TOWER

La Défense. Europe’s premier business district with two million visitors each year. Well, good luck to them…

In general, you are lost the second you leave the metro. Between «Esplanade de la Défense» and «La Défense» on line 1, the newcomer tends to get off at «Esplanade» thinking understandably that this is where to find the towers. Wrong! However, at «La Défense», you are still not sure of getting where you want to go. It all depends on what district within the district you need. Degrés or Valmy district, Arche Sud area ? Coupole-Regnault or Faubourg de l'Arche district, Arche Nord area? Just a little sample… You really need to check with your rendezvous what station to get off at. And, should the answer be « La Défense », you need to know, the metro or the station ? Same name, not same place… 

You then need to find the exit. Signs are few and far between. You move forward, with no sense of certainty… After five long minutes walking with no signage, you start to think you have made a mistake. So you retrace your footsteps, going down the wrong way or taking an ill-advised shortcut. Bad move ! You find yourself at a crossroads with no markings, you go up or down a set of stairs that lead you to… an empty space or a car park. The security guy will be apologetic but unhelpful due to the lack of street names or clear numbering. But you do have walkways and a ring road… That you will follow, hoping to finally get somewhere. From the biggest business district, you are now in the middle of No man’s land. The real, the sad, the despairing… Thinking of using your phone gps? There are so many bridges, tunnels, levels that it even gets lost, unable to pinpoint where you went wrong.

Well, don’t worry. Perseverance and miles of courage pay off in the end. You get where you want to go, late, but forgiven with a smile and a much-needed glass of water. Despite everything, you made it, your rite of passage is over…

B.A.

junior_suite
Ce que les placards, les murs ou les tiroirs de notre chambre d'adolescent
racontent sur nous aujourd'hui.
  • 11- Junior Suite

    Photo © Daniella Matoso

PERFUMED MEMORIES

It has its own shelf, at the back of the room for all to see. An assortment of scents, an exhibition I carefully added to with each find, each present, as time went by… My perfume collection. A passion handed down by my mother who spent twenty years of her life advising men and women of all ages to wear scented clothing…

It is not really the aesthetic beauty of these olfactory trophies that intrigues me, but more the mysteries they hide. The memories, impressions, buried secrets burst out suddenly. A tiny sniff of one of these fragrances takes me away on a dreamlike escapade.
«24 Faubourg» from Hermès, I see my mother getting ready to go out, sitting in front of the mirror. My father waits in the living room with Peggy Lee singing in the background... Then there is «Miel des bois» by Lutens that takes me back to a creek in south Albania for an instant of profound serenity.

Then, I wanted to try with others. What the power of smell can provoke was a revelation : one day, a friend came by and I asked her to pick a perfume and tell me what the fragrance evoked for her. She opened the bottle carefully and closed her eyes. She seemed  unmoved but I had a feeling her senses were bubbling. Later, she told me that the scent made her think of the softness of a clean, immaculate cloth, a summer afternoon in the countryside… For me, the perfume gave off the smell of smoke, with overtones of velvety wine, a bohemian caravan, a spellbinding woman…
We threw ourselves into this quest for memories and imagined feelings. A way of expressing our sensibility, and of really getting to know one another.

Since then, my collection has become a place of ritual, a marvellous place where I love to see my guests play the game ! An unexpected travel agency ! 

Daniella Matoso from an interview with Nina T.
 

Collaborateurs

  • Directrice de la Publication et de la Rédaction
    Virginie Achard
  • Directrice Artistique
    Perrine Lebas
  • Concepteur web
    Franck Biehler
  • Chroniqueurs
    Maurice Achard, Bianca Alberti, Bruno Lancelot, Elido, Marie Veyrier, Stéphanie Norris
  • Traductrice
    Tresi Murphy

Invités

PHOTOGRAPHE METAPHORE
Thomas Duval

AGENT PHOTOGRAPHE METAPHORE
Noucha Shahbazi - lebookmaker.com 

PHOTOGRAPHES ÉDITORIAL
Odile Berthemy, l'Acharnœur

ASSISTANTE COMITÉ ÉDITORIAL
Daniella Matoso