edito

Number 12. An ordinary number. But why wait for the big numbers to have some fun? Spring starts on March 20th and won’t wait until the 21st like its acolyte summer. The Eiffel Tower is celebrating its 124th birthday. Why wait until next year to celebrate? Is this all just artifice? Not as much as in «Freeze-frame» or «Good day/ Dog day». Next issue on April 3rd.

truc_du_jour

no

  • 12- News qui court 13

    2 avril. Bien sûr, notre gagnant de la chasse aux oeufs n'est pas Monsieur Karl. Ce n'était qu'un tout petit poisson. Le vrai gagnant est une femme. Elle a trouvé les 15 paniers et en a même repéré d'autres éventuels! Elle va recevoir la Carte Cadeaux d'un montant de 50€. Bravo à elle!

respect
  • 12- Respect

    César «Compression Coca-Cola » 1992 ©Oliver Haas /ADAGP, Paris 2013

HIGH GLASS

We associate it spontaneously with bright colours, a certain out of date kitschiness and an archaic manufacturing process… But also with the magic of Venice and its mysteries, with the unparalleled dexterity of its craftsmen… Murano glass is all of this. But this is not even half the story: it is a unique glass art that has evolved and been passed down through the ages. An art with a history unlike any other, cultural dovetailing, secrets, rivalry and even death threats! Seven centuries where it has been shaped into all types of objects, from simple carafes to ultra contemporary sculptures. It is a pity then to reduce it to the vision of the overdose of the tacky souvenirs that can be found in every high street in Italy…

We musn’t forget that Murano is also about the passion of men who use the same traditional methods as their ancestors, which is quite a feat today when we take into account how hard it is to preserve production modes that mainly involve time and hands. It is the transmission of a skill long-preserved by the master glassmakers. It involves sharing with other crafts and the perfection of certain techniques in the service of aesthetics. This is what makes the singularity of this blown or threaded glass in colours one doesn’t get anywhere else, with such unique veins, almost unreal ornaments and transparency, made with a detail and precision that verges on the spectacular. 

Today, artists and designers from all over the world come to Murano to work in the workshops of what is considered to be one of the oldest companies in the world. Creating modern designs using tradition gives each object an extra piece of soul and history… This also results in amazing, totally unexpected or avant-garde pieces. A little hit?

And the strangest thing? Murano continues to fascinate, despite our mocking, saturated or distracted perspective.  It might just be through a little figurine that so beautifully reproduces the world in miniature. Between a sense of wonder, a return to childhood or curiosity, the trip takes us further than Venice.

Stéphanie Norris


• Want to see all of this differently? See you at the musée de Maillol for the «Fragile. Murano» exhibition from March 27th.

 
beurk
  • 12- Beurk

    Photo © l'Acharnœur

TOO TIGHT!

So Spring is officially here. And with it comes lighter clothing, including the return of tenacious trends like leggings worn as pants. A blend of the ridiculous, the vulgar and the inappropriate.

It is true that the marketing men do everything to try to renew the genre and make us believe that leggings can be worn with a little top that doesn’t even cover our hips. They make it in different materials like vinyl; they make them a little thicker, add motifs and change the name to «jegging» to give it a little more consistence… 

The problem is, leggings or jeggings, with or without designs, with or without lace, stitching, fake pockets or any other attempt at a style, are still basically just footless tights. A bit of tight fabric with an elasticated waist and very often stitching that goes from the navel all the way around, between the legs to the back. They can be worn with dresses, tunics, shorts… They can be easily accessorised with a piece of clothing that can at least hide the bottom and also the pubic area. 

Because leggings cover nothing whatsoever. You might as well be walking around in your knickers. There’s no other way of putting it. And unless you’re being sponsored by a lingerie brand to promote a thong –yes, you can really see everything… there is no reason to give in to this trend that is everything but attractive or sexy. This is not a question of misplaced prudery. It is a simple observation and many agree, both women and men.

Now, it is true that stars are the first to wear leggings as pants. But stars are stars with a status that enables, even obliges them to be daring, to have a few eccentricities. If we were supposed to dress like Gaga in the street, we’d have heard about it.

Bianca Alberti
 
 
billard

FRANÇOIS AND FRANÇOIS

We appear to be surrounded by men named François. One is on a temporary contract, our Président de la République; the other on a permanent contract, the new pope. One, the French Head of State started almost a year ago; the other, of Argentinean origin hasn’t wasted any time making his mark.
They are both playing the same register: «normality» for François Hollande and «simplicity» for just plain François…

The Président de la République began his term by taking the train or car just like everyone else, sleeping at home rather than at the Élysée palace and doing his shopping in his neighbourhood.
The pope went to pay the bill for the pensione for priests where he stayed before his election and took the bus with the other cardinals instead of the official car that was waiting for him. Clever and symbolic displays.
Faced with the hyper-personalisation of the greats of this world by television that, in a short time, imposes their image on the entire planet, we can understand that proximity becomes an issue in their communication. As if to take them off their pedestal.

Président Hollande wants to stay close to the people.
Pope Francis wants to stay close to the poor.
They can’t be blamed for this…
But the other day in Dijon where the Head of State went on a visit we did see that this doesn’t last long: barriers, security tape, police presence… The illustrious visitor has become untouchable again.
The inaccessible «François de France» while we wait for the inaccessible «François de Rome»?

Maurice Achard

 
 
floraison
Un livre, un film, une musique... quelques années, décennies ou siècles plus tard.
Quand la culture n’en finit pas de fleurir.
  • 12- Floraison

    Photo © l'Acharnœur

BOOK FOR TABLET

Every year at the Salon du Livre*, the conversations buzz about the publishing crisis. And increasingly about the big bad «digital» movement that will eventually eat up all our paper books. And what if, instead of talking about it, we wrote about it? Why not write a book? 

This is exactly what Paul Fournel did with «La Liseuse», a novel that came out in January 2012. A marvel even though its launch was abnormally discreet. The «liseuse» is in fact a tablet. An ipad to be precise. Robert Dubois, the main character is an old-school editor who receives it from his big boss through an intern: «He said he had put all of your manuscripts on it for the weekend and that it wouldn’t be so heavy». The argument is funny. And marks the first point of contention between  two worlds that seem to want to rip each other apart: the traditional and the virtual. So we think that we’re in for the hundredth debate or the hundredth nostalgia trip… That books are going to start feeling a little dusty. This is where we learn our lesson, in the best way. Some prejudice but more particularly modernity.

Because old Robert Dubois is both blasé and curious. While he does immerse us in the habits, neighbourhoods, restaurants, problems and weariness of traditional publishing, he also takes us to the pretty clever horizons that tablets and smart phones could bring to reading. This totally unexpected direction gives the novel an uncommon energy.

Some see it as an end. The end of a man, of an era. On the contrary, we see it as a beginning. We read about a man, whose lights were slowly going out, and who regains a taste for what he loved. In his own way. We read it as a possible reconciliation between these two worlds. We almost read it as a way out for books made of paper. What else did we read? A poem, to our great surprise. But we must get to the last page to understand why. And tell ourselves that «La Liseuse» by Paul Fournel is without a doubt the most beautiful literary tour de force and pied de nez (nose thumb) in recent times.

Marie Veyrier

 

• Buy «La Liseuse» from Paul Fournel on Amazon or la Fnac
* 33rd Salon du Livre: From March 22nd to 25th 2013, Porte de Versailles

 

Métaphore

TOWER WITH A VIEW

On March 31st it is the Eiffel Tower’s birthday. A chance to give it the once over. But from a building, behind a wall, through a detail… Seen differently but always with prestige. Because the Grande Dame is as captivating as ever. A collective series.

foodoir
  • 12- Foodoir

    Photo © Odile Berthemy

EGGSCELLENT!

Eggs are constantly surprising. The chicken or the egg, no one will ever solve the original riddle. So when eggs are brought by bells, cuckoos or, even stranger bunnies? 

The symbol itself is easy to understand, the egg is associated with birth and rebirth. The cosmic egg is a metaphor for the creation of the world in many Asian civilisations and some African beliefs. In Ancient times, painted eggs were offered to the Goddess Mother in Spring to favour life and fertility. 

In Europe, from Hungary to Poland, young people follow a charming Easter Monday tradition: young girls give young men eggs while the young men chase them spraying them with water – a fun-filled attack that encourages fertility, they say!
More generally in Catholic countries, to celebrate the resurrection of Christ, people decorate the eggs that have built up during Lent’s lean period and they are given as a reward to well-behaved children. In France, a custom meant that the King should have the biggest egg laid during Holy Week. Certain monarchs went as far as to give as gifts beautifully manufactured eggs that contained a surprise. Tsar Alexander III ordered famous eggs from the jeweller Fabergé. 

Most often, it was said that the bells went into mourning on Holy Thursday going to Rome for refuge until Easter Sunday, sprinkling gardens with sugar or chocolate eggs on their way back. 

Today, the celebration has become a popular one, treats have branched out: bells, chickens, baskets and… rabbits! They are still hidden, even adults organise egg hunts. And for those who wish to enjoy these games and treats all year round, they can always turn to those chocolate eggs with a surprise hidden in a yellow plastic inner egg, «laid» by a smart manufacturer in 1974 !

Elido
 

TRUE LIES!

The «intermittents du spectacle» in France (French audiovisual and film technicians and actors) are currently circulating a film online where one of their coordinators screens a report shown on «C dans l'air» on January 29th (a current affairs programme), which covered the specific unemployment benefit system for audiovisual technicians and actors. Each time the report mentions something he considers to be untrue; he stops the film and corrects it. The online film is called «Ripostes», it lasts a quarter of an hour and is quite worrying. Especially if we have preconceived notions about show business workers and their neverending issues. Even Yves Calvi, the programme’s remarkable presenter is corrected on a figure…

In the United States, the «Washington Post» is in the process of setting up an online system that will correct any lying politician in real time. To be more precise, a big red «FALSE» in capital letters will appear on the screen immediately thanks to an application linked to an archive of established facts.

Dark days for lying on TV?
After having a free rein for so long, is it about to be found out by the new screens ? Is it soon to be caught out at the slightest sign of party politics, post-electoral u-turns or dodgy dealings… Isn’t the war on lies more of an angelic utopia ? Sport, health, food, religion… Is there a resistance in the making ? By injecting high doses of truth serum. The truth will out eventually…

M.A.

 

L'Avenue
LA BOUTIQUE EN LIGNE DE L'ACHARNŒUR.
Pour en savoir plus sur les pièces uniques ou
en édition limitée, cliquez sur les différentes vitrines!

Let It Be - 63€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

 

THE LET IT BE SELECTION
FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from soft leather and white metal, it is both chic and gothic, ultra-precious and rock and roll. The clasp dresses the wrist with a refinement and originality that attracts all women, regardless of their age or style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur and also available without the skull.

 

Price: 63€ with skull.
58€ without skull.

Without skull item or with a bow also avalaible.

Caractéristiques produit

- Leather bracelet
- Bracelet chain in plate silver
- Skull clasp in stainless Zamac 
- Sizes available: 32cm, 34 or 36cm (made-to-measure on request)

Let It Be Men - 54€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

 

THE LET IT BE SELECTION
FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from leather and white magnetic metal, it is both male and chic, elegant and rock and roll. Perfect alliance between sobriety and confirmed style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur.

 

Price: 54€ 

Caractéristiques produit

- Leather bracelet with "piqûre selleir"
- Magnetic clasp in silvered Zamac 
- Sizes available: 20cm or 22cm (made-to-measure on request)

Aline Lang - 80€

Aline Lang is a photographer and graphic artist who one day, for fun, drew a bracelet watch like a piece of film. A designer at Cartier, Omega, liked it and oriented her into watch face design. Her first watch was for the bicentenary of the French revolution. Since then she has designed over forty watches, including one for the Bibliothèque nationale. Her rare and unusual creations are born from her inspiration and are produced as limited editions.

 

THE ACHARNŒUR’S SELECTION

 

The Gallops watch. An homage to chronophotography (the decomposition of a movement by a succession of photographs) and to Muybridge’s work that in 1878, proved that the four legs of a horse leave the ground at the same time when the horse gallops. This watch was first made by a big luxury house before being edited by the Musée d’Orsay. Its leather bracelet and particularly flat face makes this version timeless.

 

Limited edition. 10 pieces available.
Price: 80 €.

Gallops Watch

Caractéristiques produit

- Case in chromed brass
- Black leather bracelet 
- Quartz movement
- Made in France, Alsace.

Cyrto

Cyrto is extremely shy and prefers the shadows to the light. She is an illustrator and graphic artist and is spending more and more time on her true calling: creating fantastic worlds from her own emotion, impulse and imagination. She invents but does not reinvent. She follows no trend or influence but instead takes all her inspiration from her inner self. Her uniquely artistic approach will soon be visible through her writing and directing.

 

CYRTO GLOVES

 

The whole idea comes from the glove as second skin. Cyrto creates indelible designs on gloves evoking ramifications, sketches… connections. Each piece is unique and comes only from her imagination. There are no rules, no hierarchy, the cells form every instant and grow together through paths and encounters. Her lines tell of a fantastic world that is almost invisible to the naked eye. Between tattoo art and a pseudo-botanic vision, the lines of the hand take on a new meaning.

 

Gloves made to order. 

 

The approach is entirely artistic. The final piece is handed over in exchange for an envelope in which the client « gives » the amount they wish.

 

The Acharnœur will act as intermediary but takes no commission. For more information: avenue@acharnoeur.com

Illustration from Cyrto Art.

Caractéristiques produit

- Light-coloured gloves supplied by the client
- Unique drawings done in indelible ink 
- Time required: two weeks
- Price of piece fixed by the client
- Delivery costs extra (6€ minimum for France)

A venir

None

Gabriella de Galzain - 125€

She used to work under the name «Frénétik». Today Gabriella de Galzain is coming out of hiding and is launching her eponymous brand. She makes baroque, romantic, rock n’ roll jewellery that expresses a bohemian spirit of elegance and freedom, paying homage to the most beautiful icons. Her undeniable talent can be seen in brooches, necklaces, earrings, cuff-links… She counts many stars among her greatest fans and some of her pieces tell the most beautiful stories. 

 

A GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

We requested an homage to the Eiffel Tower. Only for l'Acharnœur, Gabriella de Galzain came up with this timeless yet contemporary brooch. The blend of off-whites means it can be worn at all times. Pearls, chains, crystals, ceramic flowers… The codes of elegance and femininity with an essential touch of impertinence. All the audacity of the “Grand Dame” herself.


Item made to order. 
Special price: 125€ taxes inclued

«La Parisienne» brooch

Caractéristiques produit

- Resin beading and icons
- Resin flowers, glass cabochon, crystal Swarovski rhinestones
- Base in silver-plated copper
- Silver-plated brass chains
- Icon high : 10cm
- Total high (with chains) : 24 cm 

corruption
Ils nous ont demandé d'en parler.
Comme on a aimé ce qu’ils proposaient, on l’a fait... À notre façon !
  • 12- Corruption

    Photo © Calaggio

GET YOUR KIT ON!

The French say one must be happy in one’s trainers to be happy in one’s head. What about in-between? To be happy in one’s head, why not be happy in one’s boxers or tangas? Dumb? Not so dumb when you think of what badly fitting underwear can cause: friction, strange walking… 

The brand Calaggio was set up in 2011 to put an end to this kind of problem and give underwear the honour and originality it deserves. The undeniable difference? The cut. Whatever the model, there is no stitching on the back or the sides. An exclusive manufacturing method that provides extreme comfort whether you are moving or sitting. Another strong point? The material. Each item is made from certified high level Lycra, a light and particularly soft material that guarantees a real second skin effect. On the design front, the pop, cosmopolitan or unusual motifs of the collections bring both oomph and elegance. For simple personal pleasure. For the most part they are designed by 

Aurélie Barbier, Calaggio’s founder and evoke all kinds of escape. The essentials are called  Islands, Ti Punch, New York, London Color or Morpho. Soon, a new model will be joining the ranks each month to provide a little variation and boost the too traditional seasonal model. In the meantime, you can take part in a raffle the first Thursday of every month to win a pair of boxers or a shorty. Calaggio means a certain spirit, an energy, a generosity...

And some of their faithful clients agree wholeheartedly. They include, Joffrey Pollet-Villard, freestyle skiing champion or Maxime Habran, biathlon champion. The latter even threw out all of his other underwear when he tried Calaggio and now won’t wear anything else, when competing at the highest level or off the piste! Another devotee is freestyle snowboarding champion Mirabelle Thovex.

Tempted ? Rendezvous on calaggio.com. There is an exclusive offer for Acharnœur readers, so it would be a real pity to just be “happy in your trainers”.

B.A.


• To see the collection on www.calaggio.com 
• For the Acharnœur's readers, a reduction of 25% for any purchase on the website with code "acharnoeur 2013".

 

Idylle

EITO RING

A daring design using criss-cross structure that makes the monument so particular. Each piece is made by the artist himself. For men and for women. Unique.

449€ for the solid silver piece. Gold on request. For sale exclusively at l’Œuf, 9 rue Clauzel, 75009 Paris. For more information: www.loeufparis.com

station

CHOCOLATIER - PARIS
Metro Trocadéro or Victor Hugo
Line 9, 6 or 12

  • 12- Station 2

Another nod in her direction by Damyel. This family-run house was set up in 1988, and they take great care when manufacturing all sorts of sweet treats but also with the packaging and distribution. Savour their chocolates, dragées, glazed chestnuts, nougat… And among their specialities is this Eiffel Tower ! A little Paris directly on the taste buds, taste Gustave with gusto, and Easter Monday becomes very creative indeed. As when this manufacturer transforms the grande dame into chocolate, they cover her in a fondant dress with a delicate cocoa architecture underneath. Better find her a good hiding place as our famous tower might attract a few greedy admirers ! 

Damyel, a number of stores including:
33, avenue Raymond Poincaré, 75116 Paris
Or on www.damyel.com

quotidien
  • 12- Quotibien

    Monsieur Farceur by Roger Hargreaves - HACHETTE JEUNESSE

FOOLS RUSH IN !

April 1st. A strange day that each year comes to tease our everyday life. Some people are completely transformed. Into clowns, daring jokers, paranoid sulkers, mistrustful grumps, or good sports…

For kids, the adventure is huge. Managing to stick a fish on their friends’ backs without getting caught. The most fun? Adult victims. Especially teachers… Of course, no bad language on the fish, we are not here to mock. Teenagers prefer to avoid the fun altogether, it’s for babies. And the jokes are so lame ! But when they reach adulthood, their inner children seem to wake up !

So, try to track down the lies. First of all in the media. Everyone is looking out for and talking about the April fool’s articles and reports. Then there are friends and family. The only thing to remember is, go big or go home! A «What are you doing here ? Your grandmother is waiting at the station ! Don’t tell me you forgot to pick her up ?» is so effective that the victim is already out the door to look for said elderly relative. 
Then the game begins. One side waiting for the jokes while the others attempt to come up with the craziest schemes. 

However, there are a few basic rules that need to be followed: no fake good news that could send the recipient into a downward spiral when they hear the truth. Not fake bad news that could cause an adrenalin rush that is hard to come down from. Don’t persevere or make the joke drag out in case you don’t get the chance to say «April Fool !» in time and the victim is already at the station looking for his granny. What a day !

This said, some collateral damage is inevitable. Colleagues who don’t take your promotion seriously, those who treat everything they hear with suspicion… And those who think the most serious news is a joke : «No, seriously honey, I dented the car…». Happy April Fool’s day !

M.V.

 

junior_suite
Ce que les placards, les murs ou les tiroirs de notre chambre d'adolescent
racontent sur nous aujourd'hui.
  • 12- Junior Suite 2

    "Mirrorman", a living sculpture by the artist Gustav Troger.

FACE TO FACE

It watched me grow, change, and even brush my hair. The most everyday of objects : Mirror, mirror on the wall… Nothing like the wicked stepmother’s in Snow White ! Mainly because I am a man, and I don’t care who is the fairest of them all…

When I was a kid, I didn’t think it had any value. The only original thing was the little light attached at the top of its triangular shape that lit all who looked in… But nothing special. I didn’t even take it with me when I moved to Paris. 
But. A few months later I came home for the weekend to clear my head, to get some home comfort and go back to my old habits. Before going out for a drink, I opened my wardrobe and found myself in front of it. What a shock when I caught a glimpse of myself ! My reflection had changed. I thought I knew my face but suddenly I didn’t recognise myself… This threw up all kinds of questions : the promises I had made myself, had I kept them ? The principles I had been taught, I had followed them ? I tried to throw light on my life through the intermediary of my mirror… I got seriously drunk that night ! 

So it became my lie detector. I remember seeing myself the unhappiest I have ever been in it, I understood immediately. I had only just put down my case when it caught me, the door half open. I couldn’t hide. «Don’t forget who you are and what you aspire to», that was its message. Another weekend I arrived, overcome with tiredness. And despite my fuzzy head, my eyes shone with life : had I respected my own contract ? In any case I felt proud.

As if it has become impregnated with my deepest thoughts, this mirror reflects my current state. When I stand in front of it, the invisible becomes visible. The painful or indolent truth it reflects, it has seen me in every state imaginable, and dares to show me the reality that others can not reveal. 

Daniella Matoso from an interview with Enzo O.

 

• The image is from a work of Gustav Troger. To see and learn more about this amazing project, a report on Tuxboard or the official website

 

Collaborateurs

  • Directrice de la Publication et de la Rédaction
    Virginie Achard
  • Directrice Artistique
    Perrine Lebas
  • Concepteur web
    Franck Biehler
  • Chroniqueurs
    Maurice Achard, Bianca Alberti, Bruno Lancelot, Elido, Marie Veyrier, Stéphanie Norris
  • Traductrice
    Tresi Murphy

Invités

PHOTOGRAPHES METAPHORE
Odile Berthemy, Daniella Matoso, Oscar Saccer de Rei,
l'Acharnœur

PHOTOGRAPHES ÉDITORIAL
Odile Berthemy, l'Acharnœur

ASSISTANTE COMITÉ ÉDITORIAL
Daniella Matoso