edito

Issue number 17.  So, moroseness is the order of the day ? The Acharnœur went off to look for things to bring a smile back to our faces, a little impetuousness, and a lot of lightness… In our heads, for our eyes or just for the weekend. Everything is round like peas, balls, bubbles. You would prefer to play with rectangles ? No problem, we have also given some room to the power of Lego. Starting with Samuel Rousseau, contemporary artist who is this week’s guest contributor to the Junior Suite. Feel like more? The News qui Court brings a little relaxation to your morning, every morning. Next issue on June 12th.

truc_du_jour

none

  • 17- News qui court 11

    11 juin. Paris insolite ou Paris typique? Quand les habitants de la Capitale n'en font qu'à leur tête et créent des "tableaux" assez comiques. Pauvre poteau. Gentil pour les 2 roues, il en connait le prix!

respect
  • 17-Respect

    Photo © L'Acharnœur

VIVE LE LUXE !

«Luxury is superficial, it’s for the rich and it’s too bling»… An image that is hard to shake. Especially in a recession. Especially when it is linked to groups such as Kering (ex PPR), l’Oréal and the Bettencourt affair or worse, LVMH whose big bad president wants to go into exile with all his money. What else is there besides these clichés ? A little tour of a world that is far from perfect but that aspires to provide beauty.

Let us remember, first of all, that the luxury industry generates tens of millions of Euros in VAT and taxes, among other things, that it pays to the state. A sum shared out for each of us, in the form of social security, unemployment benefit… No, not everything is outsourcing and tax havens. Let’s admit that once and for all.

Luxury means the preservation of a certain craftsmanship. Because there is a lot of money available, it becomes possible to do things «the old way». When the hand of a man or woman is always more precious than that of any machine. Professions that could so easily have died out but that have survived, kept going by people who are committed and respected. We got the chance to tour a few sites, notably those of Louis Vuitton. We met a number of employees from a range of professions, happy to display their skills, to talk about them and work in increasingly better conditions. Young people, old people, disabled people. From all cultures. As the only requirement for admission to the circle is to be «meticulous».

Luxury means names like Dior, Yves Saint- Laurent, Chanel; names we are proud of as they represent creative audacity and a French art that is envied all over the world. And, as French people, we like that.

Finally, luxury means dreams. Because it is beautiful, most of the time. It means the extravagance that enables us to get beyond what we can imagine both in terms of images and technology, whether it is in watches, cars, textiles… Luxury could even be that which prevents us from giving in totally to the ambient moroseness and despair as it offers a little window on a world that, even if it remains inaccessible most of the time, proves that the unbelievable can happen after all.

Virginie Achard

• Interested in seeing all of this for yourself ? Luxury often opens its doors. Next LVMH event is the «Journées Particulières» on June 15th and 16th next :  www.lesjourneesparticulieres.fr

 

beurk
  • 17- Beurk

    Source illustration : fulyacetinsoz.wordpress.com

HELLO ?

The Internet and the telephone… A giant leap forward in communication terms. A big step back in terms of humanisation. Things don’t quite add up.

To begin with, exchanges have become internet sites or automated answering machines. While some provide a new level of comfort, they’ve unfortunately been developed in their hundreds for the slightest action, challenging any level of patience: a sterile search on a badly planned website, a site that freezes just as you are buying something, a pre-recorded message that doesn’t correspond to your specific needs, the cost of every minute spent waiting for a detail, etc… Everyone complains but there’s really no point. Now, finding out the opening hours for a museum or ordering a taxi has become a nightmare. Magnifique!

The only other option is to try to get through to a person. A real one. With the hope of deliverance. Generally, you need to dial 9 for this option after having gone through every other choice available. Or a shortened or 0800 number that you will eventually have found well hidden on the website. After waiting for hours, you finally get a human being on the end of the line. A listening ear, ready to understand your distress, to sympathise with your problem  but above all to solve it. Except. More and more often, you don’t get a real person, you get a robot. Because they will have been trained not to «go outside usual procedure», even though they don’t actually solve your problem. And because you are the thirtieth person today that they have heard complain or get angry, and having received so much bile already, they have built a shell. And because they are in a foreign country, speak your language badly and you don’t speak theirs at all. 


It all ends up with two endless and perfectly useless monologues. A sense of frustration, of unease. A deep feeling of loneliness. For both parties. A lovely gift from these modern times.

Marie Veyrier

 

billard

SON OF A...

In French they are called « gros mots » or big words, as if there were little ones… A linguist, Gilles Guilleron, has listed 300 in a little dictionary that has just been published. Three hundred curse words, insults etc. It begins with abruti (fool), and ends with zonard (thug). Expletives that often provide a release, freeing up tension so as to avoid a punch up… And they don’t necessarily mean to harm the person they are used on. The word con, for example, can be used affectionately. However, there are others that can do irreparable damage. Let’s bypass them.

Then there are words that are not just big, but enormous, with too many interpretations, uses, insinuations possible for one word.
For example, the word race (the same in English), that some would have erased from the Constitution, an others wouldn’t. The debate is heating up. It is bubbling under at the Assemblée Nationale. The issue is to decide whether the term is applicable to the human species or just to animals. In the Robert dictionaries it is used in both cases. And it is used in the European Convention on Human Rights and in the United Nations Charter. Which proves nothing, but will doubtless help to clear things up a little.

Race, is like con, it is not necessarily negative. Racist is however, truly a gros mot. Truly a gros con.

Maurice Achard

 

floraison
Un livre, un film, une musique... quelques années, décennies ou siècles plus tard.
Quand la culture n’en finit pas de fleurir.
  • 17- Floraison

    Source : the-evil-eye.tumblr.com

GET YOUR CLAWS OUT!

Are you sick and tired of hearing the word «recession» with the sound of the rain falling in the background? Need to get your groove back ? Time to switch off the radio and plug in your mp3 player to listen to THE hit that will bring out the beast, or the strength in all of us. It’s time to listen to «The Eye of the Tiger» by Survivor !

The famous theme from Rocky 3, this track tastes of perseverance. Just like the story, regardless of which «episode», it plays the same tune: a man that no one really believes in anymore, and who doesn’t really believe in anything himself. Then you have the challenge, the test. The hero has to «roll up his sleeves and fight». And this song is omnipresent, sounding like a hymn.
There was no way it could fail, it has everything: the opening chords wriggle with impatience, the drums hammering like a heartbeat and, in almost every sentence, words that boost that determination: «Chances, survive, passion, glory, dreams, alive» not to mention «Eye» and «Tiger» !

It’s no wonder that this track works wonders, physically and emotionally ! When it comes on in a café for example, the transformation speaks for itself… A few heads look up, people start smiling when they remember Rocky’s «cliché» grit and resolve. But it becomes contagious. One person starts rocking their head in time to the music, another will breathe out heavily, another’s face changes… Pupils become dilated, muscles stretch. The atmosphere changes, the energy is not the same, it’s both relaxed and ready, everyone together !
«The Eye of the Tiger» is like a fluid that enters the body. Full of vitamins, anti-depressant, even explosive. So, why don’t we give it a shot tomorrow at eight a.m.?

Bianca Alberti


• Be happy listening to the "Eye of Tiger"

 

Métaphore

CONEY ISLAND

A place, a scene that doesn’t change from one season to the next ? Or a view that can be recognised according to its inhabitants and its tourists ? And the crowd, anonymous human beings or individuals whose private life is exposed in a public place ? Answers to be found in Coney Island with a series by Baptiste Lignel and Johnny Miller.

To discover all the series and buy the book "Coney Island", visit otra-vista.com

foodoir
  • 17-Foodoir

    Ad movie "Pipiou", 1966. Source : Ina.fr

PEAS IN A POD

Feel like playing tennis on your plate with those little green balls, so cute in the school canteen when they are turned into little projectiles much to the amusement of the crazed pea-shooters or «piou pious» in French. By the way, who remembers Pipiou ? The little round-headed chick that appeared on our screens circa 1966 to sing the praises of this essential little vegetable in his little baby voice: «On a toujours besoin d’un petit-pois chez soi» ! (You should always have peas in the house !).
Certainly, if we believe in the pea’s energetic power – approx. 80 cal/100 gr. – ahead of all the other greens. So, is it a legume or a carb ? Both, in fact, as these little grains contain starch – but also calcium and vitamins (A, B), lots of potassium, a fair amount of phosphorous and a little magnesium. Their sugary taste and their fat content (12%) mean that peas are often frowned upon for dieters… when in fact they are excellent as little snacks as they are full of oligo-elements (zinc, manganese, selenium)!

They’ve been around for over six thousand years, originally they were found around the Mediterranean where they grow wild, peas are in fact grain that are not yet ripe and that need to be shelled (a fave for kids !)… Their bumpy shells – unlike those of the «mange tout» that are flat – must be picked firm and crunchy, bright green, for fresh peas to be eaten quickly or else they become floury. The best season is May-June. They can be eaten raw (in moderation) for a little nutty taste. Otherwise, they can be cooked «English» style when they are boiled and «French» style when they are steamed with added butter ! And if we mention a dish «à la Clamart», it means that it is accompanied by peas who were once a cultivated in this Parisian suburb.

Looking for something more simple? They are easy to find in cans ! And for those who don’t have peas at home, you can still wear them: try on a pea coat for size…

Elido

• Have fun with the movies "Pipiou" 

TELE-PATERNITY

Father’s Day is looming but it seems to have already started on France 4. Since May 21st and for four consecutive Tuesdays, the channel is broadcasting a series that involves putting four fathers and six children aged from 6 months to 4 years (their own kids) in a house together. Without their wives, who watch and set them tests from time to time : go shopping, go to a restaurant, go to the park…
So there is one doting Daddy, one that doesn’t bother, a distracted one, and one who can’t seem to cope… A blend of reality TV and documentary, the programme of course brings to mind «Three men and a baby», (1985), a sort of manifesto for the new paternity at the time.

What’s missing from the groups is one type : the gay Dad. The woman-father from a lesbian couple would have also been interesting to observe in order to check if there really are behavioural differences relative to the other participants (or not).

It is true, that things are still tense on the subject of gay marriage, and this absence at least avoided controversy. A female husband would have been seen as needlessly provocative. France 4 probably preferred to forever hold its peace…

M.A.

L'Avenue
LA BOUTIQUE EN LIGNE DE L'ACHARNŒUR.
Pour en savoir plus sur les pièces uniques ou
en édition limitée, cliquez sur les différentes vitrines!

Let It Be - 63€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

 

THE LET IT BE SELECTION
FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from soft leather and white metal, it is both chic and gothic, ultra-precious and rock and roll. The clasp dresses the wrist with a refinement and originality that attracts all women, regardless of their age or style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur and also available without the skull.

 

Price: 63€ with skull.
58€ without skull.

Without skull item or with a bow also avalaible.

Caractéristiques produit

- Leather bracelet
- Bracelet chain in plate silver
- Skull clasp in stainless Zamac 
- Sizes available: 32cm, 34 or 36cm (made-to-measure on request)

Let It Be Men - 54€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

 

THE LET IT BE SELECTION
FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from leather and white magnetic metal, it is both male and chic, elegant and rock and roll. Perfect alliance between sobriety and confirmed style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur.

 

Price: 54€ 

Caractéristiques produit

- Leather bracelet with "piqûre selleir"
- Magnetic clasp in silvered Zamac 
- Sizes available: 20cm or 22cm (made-to-measure on request)

Aline Lang - 80€

Aline Lang is a photographer and graphic artist who one day, for fun, drew a bracelet watch like a piece of film. A designer at Cartier, Omega, liked it and oriented her into watch face design. Her first watch was for the bicentenary of the French revolution. Since then she has designed over forty watches, including one for the Bibliothèque nationale. Her rare and unusual creations are born from her inspiration and are produced as limited editions.

 

THE ACHARNŒUR’S SELECTION

 

The Gallops watch. An homage to chronophotography (the decomposition of a movement by a succession of photographs) and to Muybridge’s work that in 1878, proved that the four legs of a horse leave the ground at the same time when the horse gallops. This watch was first made by a big luxury house before being edited by the Musée d’Orsay. Its leather bracelet and particularly flat face makes this version timeless.

 

Limited edition. 10 pieces available.
Price: 80 €.

Gallops Watch

Caractéristiques produit

- Case in chromed brass
- Black leather bracelet 
- Quartz movement
- Made in France, Alsace.

A venir

None

Cyrto

Cyrto is extremely shy and prefers the shadows to the light. She is an illustrator and graphic artist and is spending more and more time on her true calling: creating fantastic worlds from her own emotion, impulse and imagination. She invents but does not reinvent. She follows no trend or influence but instead takes all her inspiration from her inner self. Her uniquely artistic approach will soon be visible through her writing and directing.

 

CYRTO GLOVES

 

The whole idea comes from the glove as second skin. Cyrto creates indelible designs on gloves evoking ramifications, sketches… connections. Each piece is unique and comes only from her imagination. There are no rules, no hierarchy, the cells form every instant and grow together through paths and encounters. Her lines tell of a fantastic world that is almost invisible to the naked eye. Between tattoo art and a pseudo-botanic vision, the lines of the hand take on a new meaning.

 

Gloves made to order. 

 

The approach is entirely artistic. The final piece is handed over in exchange for an envelope in which the client « gives » the amount they wish.

 

The Acharnœur will act as intermediary but takes no commission. For more information: avenue@acharnoeur.com

Illustration from Cyrto Art.

Caractéristiques produit

- Light-coloured gloves supplied by the client
- Unique drawings done in indelible ink 
- Time required: two weeks
- Price of piece fixed by the client
- Delivery costs extra (6€ minimum for France)

Gabriella de Galzain - 125€

She used to work under the name «Frénétik». Today Gabriella de Galzain is coming out of hiding and is launching her eponymous brand. She makes baroque, romantic, rock n’ roll jewellery that expresses a bohemian spirit of elegance and freedom, paying homage to the most beautiful icons. Her undeniable talent can be seen in brooches, necklaces, earrings, cuff-links… She counts many stars among her greatest fans and some of her pieces tell the most beautiful stories. 

 

A GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

We requested an homage to the Eiffel Tower. Only for l'Acharnœur, Gabriella de Galzain came up with this timeless yet contemporary brooch. The blend of off-whites means it can be worn at all times. Pearls, chains, crystals, ceramic flowers… The codes of elegance and femininity with an essential touch of impertinence. All the audacity of the “Grand Dame” herself.


Item made to order. 
Special price: 125€ taxes inclued

«La Parisienne» brooch

Caractéristiques produit

- Resin beading and icons
- Resin flowers, glass cabochon, crystal Swarovski rhinestones
- Base in silver-plated copper
- Silver-plated brass chains
- Icon high : 10cm
- Total high (with chains) : 24 cm 

corruption
Ils nous ont demandé d'en parler.
Comme on a aimé ce qu’ils proposaient, on l’a fait... À notre façon !
  • 17- Corruption

    Photo © 1st Friend

FRIENDS FOR LIFE

Nounou, Titou, Nin-nin… Such cute names for cuddly toys. Probably because they are a consolation at a time of great sorrow, protect from monsters under the bed and keep their owners amused with their cute little faces. They are part of many life events and memories… Their little owners would like to take them everywhere, to show what good friends they can be. But from school to the beach, that’s not always possible !

Luckily, the French brand 1st Friend lets you keep your teddy with you always… by putting them on a tee-shirt ! The principle is as irresistible as it is simple: 1st Friend asks you to take a photograph of your teddy «looking his or her best» and to then send them the photo. The brand then makes the garment taking great care. The photo is then retouched and printed by hand using a silk screen process. Where a screen is normal made for a series of garments, here one screen is used for each tee-shirt. 1st Friend couldn’t find a printer to do this so they set up their own workshop to bring their crazy dream to life.
Andy Warhol, a regular user of silk screen printing with his famous portrait of Marilyn Monroe would doubtless have been a fan of this idea…

The grey or white tee-shirts supplied by American Apparel, are then customised on request. To order, you just need to send the photo through the brands website. 45€ and eight days* later – a reasonable price and deadline, given the production methods – you receive your garment with your favourite teddy.

And for those who may have lost their darling «doudou», or have given it up (with difficulty), or who have never had one to hug, they can adopt «Dodu», the 1st Friend mascot, a cute little character created in tandem with the French brand Peluche Blanchet. 
A sweet project that can be ordered in any size. Yes, the concept also appeals to Mums and Dads!

Daniella Matoso

• For more information or to order your tee-shirt, click on 1st-friend.com
* working days

Idylle

NANOBLOCK

For Lego fans who don’t dare go back, this brand is inspired by Lego but in a mini version. Irresistible ! All hands on deck!

11,49€, Piano model. Different creations available on Amazon.fr

station

ÉVASION – MARSEILLE CHEMIN DE LA RIBASSIÈRE ALLAUCH

In need of some air ? The Allauch wooded park in the South of France hides some very surprising little bubbles…. Sleep under the stars without the disadvantages of camping. From your luxuriously appointed sphere you can find yourself again, far from the madding crowd, and decipher some cosmic mysteries at the same time with your telescope.
The concept is eco-friendly, the precious cocoons are very high-tech : made of a reinforced, anti-UV material, with a silent ventilation system to constantly renew the air. Be the boy (or girl) in the bubble ! Sounds good to us…

Attrap’Rêves
Chemin de la Ribassière
13190 Allauch
www.attrap-reves.com

  • 17-station
quotidien
  • 17- quotibien

    Source : Roland-Garros.com

IN THE NET OF ROLAND-GARROS

Flashback; somewhere between the end of May and the beginning of June, you are totally stressed out because you should be revising for your exams. But all you can do is watch the French Open.

A leaden sun shines on the Central Court, not the slightest breeze, a real summer feeling. Nelson Monfort, the sports commentator has, as per, gotten sunburnt on the nose : he hasn’t changed since you were a child, the same Lacoste tee-shirt and the same beginner’s English.

The players at the time, except for John McEnroe, were disciplined enough not to make too much noise so you could have a little nap after Sunday lunch. So you dozed off to the sound of the comforting to and fro of tennis balls, like a perfectly timed metronome. Sometimes you glanced up at the umpire, just to check the score, and you could be 100% sure that the Sunday night movie wasn’t going to be delayed due to the match.

But that was before, when matches lasted four hours, tops. Unfortunately, today the unreliable weather during the tournament messes with your timetable ; a match interrupted for two hours and restarted at 20H15 means you can’t go to Gaby’s housewarming. Even worse, the final ends Monday so you pretend to have food poisoning to watch the end the next day. The problem is, three people in the office gave the same excuse, you better hope your boss is a Djokovic fan.

And, today, celebrities don’t come anymore to hide their fish-belly white complexions. They head off to St. Tropez a little earlier. Luckily we still have the fascinating sight of the spectators in the crowd, all hypnotised by the little yellow ball, like hares in headlights. We are no better, mouth open, totally absorbed by these unbelievable exchanges, screaming with fear, not daring to look at the screen when the tension is at its worst. It’s better than a thriller, it must be why we go back every year !

Stéphanie Norris

 

junior_suite
Ce que les placards, les murs ou les tiroirs de notre chambre d'adolescent
racontent sur nous aujourd'hui.
  • 17- junior suite

    Sans titre (l'arbre et son ombre). Bois, acier, vidéo projection © Samuel Rousseau 2009

IMAGINARIUM

The artist Samuel Rousseau tells us about his Junior Suite.

«I have never left my childhood bedroom. Never. I always create a parallel between my room and my workshop where I am really myself, with the attendant mess. In a kid’s room, you don’t care because your imagination runs riot, you explore everything, invent things out of nothing. Just like with Lego, it was amazing. You had a blue, yellow or green man : one day he was a robber, another day a nice guy. You could recreate the entire world with those little cubes. Today, the manufacturers add on accessories, wings for planes, police equipment, and it’s a pity – the touch of realism kills the imagination ! I do the opposite in my work, I strip things down, the fewer the details the more scope there is for the viewer’s imagination and projections.

I shared a room with my younger brother and we had a toy chest. It was stimulating and pushed us forward. I remember a game where we had to manufacture the strongest tanks possible because we attacked each other by throwing them and lost when one broke : this made us think long and hard about how to make them as resistant as possible (for example, not to pile up the bricks but to stagger them), engineering for kids ! I also made lamps, I played with bulbs, electrical wires, until I got a good shock ! Today I make video art…

I still play, researching – I work from morning till night. If I’m not having fun, I stop. My inner child is alive and well. I could have killed my dreams, or let them go (I was on unemployment benefit for seven years), but I hate to surf on misery or the horrors of the world. I prefer to show the wonder – like a bare tree, dressed only in its shadow… You need to follow your dream. The most important thing is to have eyes that shine.»

Bruno Lancelot

• To see more of Samuel Rousseau’s sparklingly clever and existential work: a documentary.
• Samuel Rousseau will show at Parizone@dream on June 1st and 2nd next. See the site.

 

Collaborateurs

  • Directrice de la Publication et de la Rédaction
    Virginie Achard
  • Directrice Artistique
    Perrine Lebas
  • Concepteur web
    Franck Biehler
  • Chroniqueurs
    Maurice Achard, Bianca Alberti, Bruno Lancelot, Elido, Marie Veyrier, Stéphanie Norris
  • Traductrice
    Tresi Murphy

Invités

PHOTOGRAPHE METAPHORE
Baptiste Lignel, Johnny Miller

ASSISTANTE COMITÉ ÉDITORIAL
Daniella Matoso