edito

Number 19. This time, the Acharnœur is putting everything under the microscope. Germs in Junior Suite, dirt in Beurk, music in Corruption, feelings in Floraison, interiors in Foodoir… And «la News qui Court» every day gives you a good idea, a snippet of news, a tip from our editorial team. Are you in ? Next issue on July 10th.

truc_du_jour

none

  • 19- news qui court 12

    8 juillet. Lundi matin. l'Acharnœur est de bonne humeur. Alors Select My Sound a choisi ce titre pour partager cette belle énergie. "Something Big", vous prenez? Bon début de semaine! Écouter le morceau

     
respect
  • 19- Respect

    Dyptique Al Madre - Al Padre © Josep Grau-Garriga

TAPESTRY, MODERNITY!

Tapestry making, women’s work ? Or so it seems. Nevertheless women and tapestries have a long, and chequered history! Remember Penelope who tricked people into thinking she hadn’t finished her work, or girls in the sixties worried that making tapestries was the only option left to them if no boy asked them out to the dance…

Times have changed. Long considered to be a dated pastime, tapestries are making a blazing comeback. Between imagination, manual dexterity and avant-garde creations (let’s not mince our words), they weave a fascinating world.

Tapestry manufacturers have names that make us travel through time: Aubusson, Gobelins... We immediately picture the life of the aristocracy in the Middle Ages or the Renaissance, moving from one castle to the next with chests brimming with huge wall-hangings that kept chilly castles warm, soundproofed and decorated, while displaying the family arms and crests. And today, don’t we all dream of sleeping in exotic tents?

The tools needed are an invitation into a mysterious world, with strange terms straight out of fairytales : vertical loom or floor loom; the needle is a «flute» around which the threads are twisted, chosen in subtly blended colours and sometimes even gold and silver threads… Everything weaves together and the motifs appear as if by magic. 

This exception has not gone unnoticed. In ready-to-wear it has become a t-shirt emblem. Haute couture never left it behind and recently Valentino used it as a beautiful coat lining. Certain artists have given it an astonishingly contemporary take: Monory, ever-faithful to the colour blue in all its nuances composed a card with a result close to photography, Oppenheim contemplates the front and back of the tapestry while Grau-Garriga’s eccentricities blend fibres with objects…

Luckily for us, there are a number of exhibitions this season throughout France where we can appreciate the range. So, do we stick to our old idea of a dated pastime or can we follow a more contemporary thread ? 

Bruno Lancelot

• To see some of the pieces mentioned:
- Monory and Oppenheim : Gobelins par Nature, Éloge de la Verdure - Galerie des Gobelins (Paris)
- Grau-Garriga Musée Jean Lurçat et de la tapisserie contemporaine (Angers)

beurk
  • 19- Beurk 2

    "Real still life and livestyle". Photo © A.P.

MANKY ATTITUDE

On the one hand, you have men taking more care of themselves. On the other, women who are letting things slide. Molière would have adored turning it into a play. He could have entitled it «The dirty coquettes»*, directly inspired by the name given to these young women who look clean but are in fact filthy.

We see them, but we don’t actually see anything as they are always well dressed: cute dress, heels, varnished nails… They are quite fashionable and pretty. We do however notice that the mascara and foundation are never that fresh, that their clothes smell a little musty. But they are so «in the now» that any idea of dodgy personal hygiene is swept aside. Then, one day, they invite us into their mess, shameless and without a qualm. It’s not just about the dishes piling up in the sink or the germ-infested plates beside the bed. This is a new hybrid where hygiene and filth appear to cohabit with ease. 

Because they do wash, these «dirty coquettes». But in a bath that is never cleaned. A mouldy nest where soap build-up clings for months like oysters to a rock. The sink is hard to make out under the layer of hardened toothpaste. On the shelf, eye-shadows are open to dust and the bristles on the toothbrush are a stale yellow. The soap is floating in water. There is no make-up remover as removing make-up isn’t a thing or maybe in five minutes in the shower. 

In the living room, the dining table retains traces of a number of meals but is also half-covered by a clean, drying bath towel. This might explain things… We could go on but we think we have painted the picture.

So what do they have to say in their defence ? Nothing. As, for them, there is nothing to defend. Keeping up appearances in all ways seems to becoming the cornerstone of society ! We are only just beginning to realise to what extent. 

Bianca Alberti

*Ed: no connection with the play entitled «le Bal des coquettes sales» by Leïla Derradji and Brigitte Fontaine that came out in 2011.

billard

REST!

Do your back-to-school shopping now! By asking teachers not to make next year’s bags too heavy, meaning to limit the demands in terms of books, if only for reasons of cost and weight, the Minister for education has gone straight from June to September. Did we just skip the summer ?

This is an annoying habit that involves bringing up back-to school/work before the holidays have even started. Before we even get a chance to breathe.
Just like the letting us know what to expect in terms of TV, presenter changes, films with the new releases due out, music with new albums. At the end of the month, the trade magazine «Livres hebdo» will publish its annual list of French and foreign novels coming out in September.

September ! More than ever this year, we are in no hurry to see it come. The apparent insistence on telling us about it constantly is all the more disheartening due to the general climate. And not just the meteorological climate with the endless winter that seeped into spring, but also the psychological one, with the never-ending economic crisis that is blocking out the sun in our heads.

So, let’s make room for what we want to do, for those who are singing another tune, all together now: «School’s out for the summer !»

M.A.

 

floraison
Un livre, un film, une musique... quelques années, décennies ou siècles plus tard.
Quand la culture n’en finit pas de fleurir.
  • 19- Floraison

    Cover book, "J'ai lu" editions

VEGGIE TALES

This has nothing to do with a vegetable. Nor is it the story of a person in a vegetative state. «Autobiographie d’une courgette» by Gilles Paris is, in fact, the opposite: full of life. Of this precise moment when the human being – a little boy in this case – discovers feelings and learns to identify them, develop them. It speaks of friendship, of course. And love. But love for adults like his family and love for that pretty girl that is not exactly the same thing. What is this strange feeling of loving her differently from others? Then there is the jealousy, the little tiffs. The confidences, the questions…

A learning process told through the eyes of Icare, alias the 9-year-old Courgette, even though the writer is an adult. It’s sweet, funny, naive, surprising. We remember our own thoughts and experiences. It brings us back to the time when we found adults too dull, when all they were doing was protecting us. This gives rise to sublime passages like : Camille sits on the iron bar and dangles her legs while sucking on the candy floss stick. – Careful not to swallow it – says Raymond (…). Sometimes adults say stupid things because of the fear that eats their souls. They would be better off listening to the silence. You would think that children are really stupid and want only one thing: to pierce their throat with a lolly stick, or break their neck on a bicycle, or their legs or arms falling down a stairs, or drink bleach just to see what it tastes like.» Sound familiar ? As a child ? Then as an adult ?

This book makes a little sense, reignites the flame of lightness, and reconciles the different world visions of young and old alike. We finish it with the feeling of having thrown off our too-heavy «serious» clothes. Perfect for the holiday period! 

The fact that it begins with Icare accidentally killing his mother and ending up in an orphanage makes the achievement all the more impressive! But, like we said, this novel is extra-ordinary…

Marie Veyrier  

• Buy this book on fnac.com

Métaphore

THE INVISIBLES

As the rain looks like it’s here to stay, we might as well have some fun with it. From behind a window, she transforms us, reveals us, hides us… Enemy or ally? It all depends on what’s on your mind. A mirror game where the key is not beauty. A series signed Alice Dardun.

foodoir
  • 19- Foodoir 2

    Photo © Odile Berthemy

A FULL PLATE !

When plates become paintings, the art of eating tends to get a little delicate. Attracting the eye to open up the palette is a trend from the Nouvelle Cuisine of the seventies. With a little extra, a plate is set, like a table. 

But, due to time constraints, a lack of talent or subtlety, most restaurant owners were, for a  long time, content with adding a big leaf of lettuce covered with a thick slice of tomato. All of which takes up quite a bit of room on a plate that is already too small for the lovely steak, topped with a little knob of butter, way too hard to melt. The decorations which are meant to be eaten with the dish, ended up on the side of the plate. 

As a result, the lettuce disappeared to be replaced by a cuter, slightly more aesthetically pleasing leaf of frisée. Damnation! Frisée is impossible to fold, elastic as a trampoline and flicks vinaigrette up into our faces! So, chefs evolved toward little cubes or shavings of vegetables as thin slicing is a sign of refinement, taking inspiration from Japanese cooking. More eccentric: exotic fruit started appearing on the edge of plates, for the most part due to their decorative shapes, like the delicate star fruit. This is not a bad thing, as long as the inedible dried leaves are not included!

Sauce designs are easier. Hurray for balsamic vinegar! In little, well-placed drops, a little like Jackson Pollock’s style, but, above all… in zigzags – that can blend with the arabesques of ketchup… Zigzags are also «de rigueur» for desserts – with a red berry coulis or a crème anglaise. The thin sweet lines leave us just wanting more to go along with our chocolate fondant. 

However, be careful not to overdo things! For example a café gourmand when the little cakes end up dripping in sauce, the customer’s sleeves follow suit! Another style of decoration this time, but a little harder to swallow!

Elido

 

BONUS

«Dallas» fans are in luck with a new «season» thirty years on! The credits include the same JR at eighty (Larry Hagman died just after wrapping series one), the same Bobby, the same Sue Ellen… And their children carrying on the flame of course. A mean mini-JR, a nice mini-Bobby. 
So since last Saturday on TF1 we were treated to a rerun of the famous merciless universe.

Of course, we have already had the honour of the 2012 version of «Champs-Élysées» with the same Michel at seventy, Nana Mouskouri and her daughter, etc.
It is true that Maya l’abeille, the cute little bee from the seventies is back on Tfou with ultramodern animation techniques.
It is also true that Nagui took over «Que le meilleur gagne» which launched twenty years previously.

But imagine our incredulity if other TV shows were to be reborn before our eyes like…
- a new version of «Les Enfants du rock » with its founder Pierre Lescure still at the helm. And grand-children in the line-up.
- a new lock-in of the ex-celebs from the first «Loft Story» from 2001. Everyone on board in the same pre-fab next to M6, the same pool, Loana, Jean-Edouard, Steevy, Kenza, Laure, Aziz, all of them, Christophe and Julie, the show’s married couple and their two kids, everyone, locked up together again to see how low they can go this time.
- the reappearance of Casimir on the île aux enfants of today singing it’s time for laughter and singing with the same bouncing lightness of the eternal dinosaur. But this year’s model would be green, to give him an ecological bent.

The real revival, with real flesh and blood heroes is the opposite of a replay. It lets the viewer relive the story without going back to the past, taking the effects of time into account, a moment of pleasure, or emotion, that the viewer thought was filed away in his or her memory. A continuation of sorts, live.

So, in thirty year’s time, what programme will get the treatment ? 
«Desperate Housewives» ? It might be deliciously merciless…

Maurice Achard

 

L'Avenue
LA BOUTIQUE EN LIGNE DE L'ACHARNŒUR.
Pour en savoir plus sur les pièces uniques ou
en édition limitée, cliquez sur les différentes vitrines!

Let It Be Men - 54€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

 

THE LET IT BE SELECTION
FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from leather and white magnetic metal, it is both male and chic, elegant and rock and roll. Perfect alliance between sobriety and confirmed style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur.

 

Price: 54€ 

Caractéristiques produit

- Leather bracelet with "piqûre selleir"
- Magnetic clasp in silvered Zamac 
- Sizes available: 20cm or 22cm (made-to-measure on request)

Let It Be - 63€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

 

THE LET IT BE SELECTION
FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from soft leather and white metal, it is both chic and gothic, ultra-precious and rock and roll. The clasp dresses the wrist with a refinement and originality that attracts all women, regardless of their age or style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur and also available without the skull.

 

Price: 63€ with skull.
58€ without skull.

Without skull item or with a bow also avalaible.

Caractéristiques produit

- Leather bracelet
- Bracelet chain in plate silver
- Skull clasp in stainless Zamac 
- Sizes available: 32cm, 34 or 36cm (made-to-measure on request)

A venir

None

Cyrto

Cyrto is extremely shy and prefers the shadows to the light. She is an illustrator and graphic artist and is spending more and more time on her true calling: creating fantastic worlds from her own emotion, impulse and imagination. She invents but does not reinvent. She follows no trend or influence but instead takes all her inspiration from her inner self. Her uniquely artistic approach will soon be visible through her writing and directing.

 

CYRTO GLOVES

 

The whole idea comes from the glove as second skin. Cyrto creates indelible designs on gloves evoking ramifications, sketches… connections. Each piece is unique and comes only from her imagination. There are no rules, no hierarchy, the cells form every instant and grow together through paths and encounters. Her lines tell of a fantastic world that is almost invisible to the naked eye. Between tattoo art and a pseudo-botanic vision, the lines of the hand take on a new meaning.

 

Gloves made to order. 

 

The approach is entirely artistic. The final piece is handed over in exchange for an envelope in which the client « gives » the amount they wish.

 

The Acharnœur will act as intermediary but takes no commission. For more information: avenue@acharnoeur.com

Illustration from Cyrto Art.

Caractéristiques produit

- Light-coloured gloves supplied by the client
- Unique drawings done in indelible ink 
- Time required: two weeks
- Price of piece fixed by the client
- Delivery costs extra (6€ minimum for France)

Aline Lang - 80€

Aline Lang is a photographer and graphic artist who one day, for fun, drew a bracelet watch like a piece of film. A designer at Cartier, Omega, liked it and oriented her into watch face design. Her first watch was for the bicentenary of the French revolution. Since then she has designed over forty watches, including one for the Bibliothèque nationale. Her rare and unusual creations are born from her inspiration and are produced as limited editions.

 

THE ACHARNŒUR’S SELECTION

 

The Gallops watch. An homage to chronophotography (the decomposition of a movement by a succession of photographs) and to Muybridge’s work that in 1878, proved that the four legs of a horse leave the ground at the same time when the horse gallops. This watch was first made by a big luxury house before being edited by the Musée d’Orsay. Its leather bracelet and particularly flat face makes this version timeless.

 

Limited edition. 10 pieces available.
Price: 80 €.

Gallops Watch

Caractéristiques produit

- Case in chromed brass
- Black leather bracelet 
- Quartz movement
- Made in France, Alsace.

Gabriella de Galzain - 125€

She used to work under the name «Frénétik». Today Gabriella de Galzain is coming out of hiding and is launching her eponymous brand. She makes baroque, romantic, rock n’ roll jewellery that expresses a bohemian spirit of elegance and freedom, paying homage to the most beautiful icons. Her undeniable talent can be seen in brooches, necklaces, earrings, cuff-links… She counts many stars among her greatest fans and some of her pieces tell the most beautiful stories. 

 

A GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

We requested an homage to the Eiffel Tower. Only for l'Acharnœur, Gabriella de Galzain came up with this timeless yet contemporary brooch. The blend of off-whites means it can be worn at all times. Pearls, chains, crystals, ceramic flowers… The codes of elegance and femininity with an essential touch of impertinence. All the audacity of the “Grand Dame” herself.


Item made to order. 
Special price: 125€ taxes inclued

«La Parisienne» brooch

Caractéristiques produit

- Resin beading and icons
- Resin flowers, glass cabochon, crystal Swarovski rhinestones
- Base in silver-plated copper
- Silver-plated brass chains
- Icon high : 10cm
- Total high (with chains) : 24 cm 

corruption
Ils nous ont demandé d'en parler.
Comme on a aimé ce qu’ils proposaient, on l’a fait... À notre façon !
  • 19- Corruption

    Photo © D.R.

SELECT MY SOUND

 

«Select My Sound». The name is simple but sums up the principle perfectly: choose the best tracks to create a playlist that reveals the identity of a place or a brand. And when we say the «best tracks», we mean it. As «Select My sound» goes looking all over the world, and in places you wouldn’t expect. This gives rise to compilations with strong character, both singular and specific. Classic tracks appear alongside previously unheard tunes, new talent and future idols taken from all registers, from pop to electronica via jazz or world music. You only need to go on the «Select My Sound» facebook page to listen to the gems that regularly appear to admit that the founder’s ear and selections are unique.

But, who is behind «Select My Sound»? A music fan! Laurent Mereu-Boulch, the founder and artistic manager has been a music journo since 1996 and now works for Madame Figaro interviewing the biggest stars (Björk, David Bowie, Lou Reed, Daft Punk, Lady Gaga…). His experience and the people he has met over the years have led him to discover and open up to many sounds. He has done the sound design for Hôtel Particulier in Montmartre and the Hôtel du Cadran near the Champ de Mars. His designs evolve from one season to the next as «Select my Sound» also offers «living» playlists. A way of regularly sharing little bursts of emotion.

Interested in hearing something? «Select My Sound» presents the Acharnœur in five tracks and has promised updates every month… New sounds to be enjoyed in our «News qui court» section…

 

 

L'Acharnœur in music :
- Burt Bacharach, «Made in Paris
» (ne pas se fier au clip!)
- Shawn Lee, «Hapiness»
- Betrand Belin, «Un deluge»
- Cascadeur, «Ghost surfer»
- Yan Wagner, «The only One» (featuring Etienne Daho)
- Divine Comedy, «The Bookslovers»

 

M.V.

• To rock out, check out «Select My Sound» on facebook
• To hire «Select my Sound» for an event or a brand: laurent.mereu@gmail.com 

 

Idylle

BAROMETER

Red when the weather’s sunny, green when it’s cloudy, blue when it rains. Impossibly kitsch but seeing as it keeps changing colour at the moment, we might as well enjoy it!

129€. Weather vane with crystal icons. Available on actufitness.com

station

FURNITURE SALE
Station Notre-Dame-de-Lorette or Cadet
Line 12 or 7

  • 19- Station

You like wandering around antique and garage sales in the hope of locating a bargain ? Well, now you can find them all year round! This furniture depot in the centre of Paris changes stock regularly and follows the golden rule of the «garage sale»: unusual objects, classics or love-at-first-sight pieces. In good or «loved» condition, but always at a reasonable price. The latest arrivals are shown outside. The brave who venture inside find themselves in Ali Baba’s cave, or in a goldmine !

Dépôt Vente du 9ème
42 rue Maubeuge
75009 Paris

quotidien
  • 19- Quotidien

    Illustration © Emilie Vanvolsem

LORD OF THE GNATS

So. Like every year at this time we have to put up with an invasion. Of fruit flies! They are small, don’t sting but still seem to be able to get our attention or ruin our lives… 

You’re in the middle of a meeting with your boss? The gnat joins your talk and starts to hover. He comes and goes, inexorably drawing away your attention. His flight path is strangely hypnotic… The problem gets worse when your boss gets distracted. Then the clapping starts in an attempt to catch it. With a little luck you manage, then you need to dispose of the body. And there you are, having to do the dirty work…

With friends, things don’t get any better. Especially at the table. Nice food, good wine, great conversation… Then here he comes again trying to nibble on whatever you’re having. You remain surprisingly calm to protect your plate. But you can’t possibly let him touch your friend’s plate. A well-meaning but poorly controlled swipe gets your neighbour’s glass instead, and his shirt…

What about at home? As long as you don’t leave out any nice fruit in the hopes of enjoying it a room temperature… Kiss the juicy taste of apricots goodbye. If you don’t keep them in the fridge, the fruit flies will get them. As for the melon/Parma ham starter, if you leave it on the table for five minutes you would think someone had over-zealously «peppered» them in the meantime.

A curse! Except perhaps when they are in a group and form a cloud… On holiday at the water’s edge. Suddenly you feel a storm, or twilight approaching, when the sun is about to disappear and the temperature drops a little. A light, a smell, an image of summer happiness that you subconsciously carry around. But don’t stay open-mouthed, you might swallow some!

B.A.
 
 
junior_suite
Ce que les placards, les murs ou les tiroirs de notre chambre d'adolescent
racontent sur nous aujourd'hui.
  • 19- Junior Suite

    Source Wikipedia

MICROSCOPIC

My desk had a lock and sometimes I would hide the key as it held my most precious treasures. In fact, it contained two. It could be double locked. First of all when I had just written something completely private in my diary, something that no one else would ever read, I hoped.

And the second thing was my microscope that no one was allowed to touch, thanks to which I carried out the same observations for a long time. In that little attic room, almost in the stars, I discovered an infinitely tiny, out of reach world that fascinated me.

I was given the microscope for Christmas when I was ten, after having spent months with my nose squashed against the shop window. It was a shop for grown-ups, I was no longer interested in toys.

For my experiments, I would leave a little water in the bottom of a glass and thus cultivate paramecium. I would observe these single-cell organisms for hours. They swam on the slide, carefully fixed with clips, lit from above. I stopped hearing my mother shout that the dinner was ready. If, by some horror, she had cleaned my room and destroyed my protozoan collection, I would start over, saying nothing. 

I don’t know what happened to the desk but I threw my diary into the fire the day I moved into my own apartment. The microscope, however, has followed me everywhere since. Today it is on my bookshelf, beside my school biology book. 

I correct papers from my nursing students and glance up at it when I feel any hesitation or doubt. 

Dominique Roosendans

Collaborateurs

  • Directrice de la Publication et de la Rédaction
    Virginie Achard
  • Directrice Artistique
    Perrine Lebas
  • Concepteur web
    Franck Biehler
  • Chroniqueurs
    Maurice Achard, Bianca Alberti, Bruno Lancelot, Elido, Marie Veyrier, Stéphanie Norris
  • Traductrice
    Tresi Murphy

Invités

PHOTOGRAPHE METAPHORE 
Alice Dardun

ILLUSTRATRICE 
Emilie Vanvolsem
www.emilievanvolsem.info 

PHOTOGRAPHES ÉDITORIAL 
Odile Berthemy, A.P.