edito

BEST OF SPECIAL EDITION !

Issue number 23. You loved, criticized or missed them… Whatever the reaction, there was one. So between dives into the pool or the sea, here is a little selection of articles, column by column, for a total immersion in the Acharnœur! See you on September 4th for our back-to-school special…

truc_du_jour

no

  • 23- News Qui Court

    Peu importe qui se cache derrière le masque de la News Qui Court, toujours à l'affût de clins d'œil et de petites infos. Elle vous souhaite une bonne journée et vous dit à très bientôt pour de nouvelles complicités.

respect
  • 15- Respect

    La Liberté guidant le peuple - detail. E.Delacroix 1858

RED WHITE BLUE !

Issue 15 from 01/05 to 14/05/13

May 8th is one of those days where buses drive round with little French flags attached to the front. Will this be applauded or will stones be thrown? Times are tough. Not like July 12th 1998 on the Champs-Élysées. The French football team had just won the World Cup and an explosion of French flags coloured the entire avenue like an expression of pride and togetherness around a team that reflected its country's multiculturalism.

What has happened since then for our flag to engender so much polemic or shame to the extent that some even refuse to sport it? It is true that the republican values that it symbolises have been taken over or denatured by politicians that it is difficult to look at it without thinking of excessive campaigning from both left and right. The issue is that a flag also stands for a state of mind. Like in Delacroix's painting from 1858. The depiction of a bare-breasted woman holding our flag aloft tells of our freedom and emancipation. Our tendency not to do like everyone else and to be proud of that fact. Our obstinate, determined, independent side. The French flag also honours our cultural identity: gastronomy, fashion, architecture, art. A subtle blend of terroir, classicism and sophistication. It is a mishmash of democratic, intellectual and human imprints. In the end, there is way too much going on behind those three simple "red, white and blue" bands.

So, is the problem aesthetic? The vision is a tad superficial. But, let's take a look at what other countries have done with the same three colours... With its fifty stars, the American flag pays homage to its states while retaining the glamour of Sunset Boulevard. The British flag, with its asymmetric stripes evokes the union of England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland but also the island's rock and roll aspect. And we like it. We wear it. Even on t-shirts! So, is it time to call on Jean-Paul Gaultier to provide us with an interpretation of our flag? At least then we might wear it as a dress, a bag or a jacket. Maybe even as trousers. A little revolution might suit us...

Virginie Achard

 

beurk
  • 12- Beurk

    Photo © l'Acharnœur

TOO TIGHT!

Issue 12 from 20/03 to 01/04/13

So Spring is officially here. And with it comes lighter clothing, including the return of tenacious trends like leggings worn as pants. A blend of the ridiculous, the vulgar and the inappropriate.

It is true that the marketing men do everything to try to renew the genre and make us believe that leggings can be worn with a little top that doesn’t even cover our hips. They make it in different materials like vinyl; they make them a little thicker, add motifs and change the name to «jegging» to give it a little more consistence… 

The problem is, leggings or jeggings, with or without designs, with or without lace, stitching, fake pockets or any other attempt at a style, are still basically just footless tights. A bit of tight fabric with an elasticated waist and very often stitching that goes from the navel all the way around, between the legs to the back. They can be worn with dresses, tunics, shorts… They can be easily accessorised with a piece of clothing that can at least hide the bottom and also the pubic area. 

Because leggings cover nothing whatsoever. You might as well be walking around in your knickers. There’s no other way of putting it. And unless you’re being sponsored by a lingerie brand to promote a thong –yes, you can really see everything…– there is no reason to give in to this trend that is everything but attractive or sexy. This is not a question of misplaced prudery. It is a simple observation and many agree, both women and men.

Now, it is true that stars are the first to wear leggings as pants. But stars are stars with a status that enables, even obliges them to be daring, to have a few eccentricities. If we were supposed to dress like Gaga in the street, we’d have heard about it.

Bianca Alberti

 

billard

E=MC GOD

Issue 3 from 14/11 to 27/11/13

«La pensée de Dieu» (God’s thoughts), the new best-seller by the Bogdanov brothers, that are to receive an award in Belgrade on November 16th, is named for an answer Einstein gave one of his students after a class:
- What are you looking for? 
- God’s thoughts, the master answered.
Meaning: a sort of divine arithmetic equation explaining the creation of the world.

In fact, it’s not just a question of believers and non-believers; there are also those who think God’s existence can be proven scientifically. This is the thesis, in any case, of another recent publication by the Portuguese writer José Rodrigues dos Santos, entitled «God’s formula».
The coincidence of these two publications with similar reflections would end there but for the announcement of the amazing discovery of a new particle, as infinitely tiny as infinitely hoped for by the scientists. It is a kind of missing link in the theory of the elementary particles that are supposed to have led to the Big Bang. And what did the scientists name this particle? «God’s particle»! Good God!

It’s as if the scientists, locked in their extremely rational experiments, still can’t shake off the idea of God. Thought, formula, particle… Anyone would think that they were trying to flatter God into fessing up…

Maurice Achard

 

floraison
Un livre, un film, une musique... quelques années, décennies ou siècles plus tard.
Quand la culture n’en finit pas de fleurir.
  • 02- Floraison

    Photo © www.leonardcohen.com

SPEECHLESS

Issue 2 from 31/10 to 13/11/13

If you want to move an entire audience or just one person, surprise them and suspend time for a few minutes, there is only one song. «Hallelujah» by Leonard Cohen.

An exaggeration? Not according to the almost 200 cover versions that have been done of the song since its release in 1984 on the Various Positions album. John Cale, Jeff Buckley (with slightly different lyrics), Bon Jovi, Bob Dylan, Justin Timberlake, Vanessa Paradis and M.Pokora, have all done a version to mention but a few, very diverse, artists. Either a recorded version or a live version. It simple, this song has been reinterpreted in so many different ways by so many different artists with the most diverse styles that there seems to be a version to suit everyone’s iTune’s library. Films, television programmes and series have also surfed the wave, even Shrek. So, it loses a bit of its magic, even though it still retains some impact.

But how can one song touch so many? The lyrics? «Hallelujah» blends sexual and religious references. Biblical allusions and emotional disillusionment, depending on the listener. It’s not easy to seduce on this register. Sex yes, religion no. And even more today than in the past, as it is the subject of our greatest conflicts. So what else? The tune? The scales more like. The scales each artist must reach to pierce our souls. And the exercise is not about the pitch, it’s about the highs and lows. In the moments that are murmured almost, those that seem to fight back, those who go into incantations, those who cry, those who breathe and those who shout. « Hallelujah » is not for reciting; «Hallelujah» must be lived. To do so, each artist places their voice differently, reworks the arrangement, and changes the chords. «Hallelujah» is about trust, an instant of intimacy during which the singer presents a bouquet of feelings. And whether it is pain or pleasure, there are always a few seconds when the intensity hits us. «Hallelujah», the word itself is no longer a Catholic acclamation. It is a call to share a feeling. It sounds like a rallying cry. In the end, this is the most astonishing aspect. It takes us away, and that’s what matters. 

Marie Veyrier

Different versions of the same song:
- Leonard Cohen in a 2009 interpretation
- Jeff Buckley and his sublime version
- Vanessa Paradis and her delicate interpretation

  

Métaphore

REINTERPRETATION

Issue 14 from 17/04 to 30/05/13

Considered to be the contemporary heir to Goya and El Greco, the Madrid-based photographer Eugenio Recuenco blends his futuristic and phantasmagorical style with cubism. He has produced an ingenious and intriguing series that revisits the work of one of history’s leading painters, another Spaniard. We’ll let you guess who…

Agent : Noucha Shahbazi - lebookmaker.com

foodoir
  • 15- Foodoir

    Photo © Odile Berthemy

ALL THE PRETTY FLOWERS

Issue 15 from 01/05 to 14/05/13

No, no, whatever you do, don't eat a lily of the valley! Despite the culinary trend for blooms, this lucky charm is in fact toxic. But do not despair, you can still choose from over 250 edible flowers. So, why the craze? Flowers are poetic and have lovely colours (especially when fresh). They bring refinement and originality to any dish, and the surprise is guaranteed. Just the sound of their names is enough for our imaginations to take flight, conferring them with extraordinary powers. Their effect is well known and has been since ancient Egypt, Greece, Rome and Japan as flowers are both tasty and healthy. One word of warning however: the flowers eaten must be grown without the aid of pesticides or fertilisers!

We don't just mean the flowers on aromatic herbs (anise, chervil, sage, thyme...) nor those associated with herbal teas (lime, mint, hibiscus…), but those that urge us to create inventions as good as the top chefs. Let's start with flowers in salad, a huge trend (you only eat the petals). Beginning with the nasturtium, a flower that merits it's own separate article, so let's just mention its spicy taste, reminiscent of watercress, that brings out the taste in other ingredients such as the mushroom or the avocado (guacamole on nasturtium petals is the best!). The poppy, sweet with an after-taste of hazelnut, is also used in desserts, as is the gardenia. A more eccentric flower to eat is the begonia, with its crunchy, slightly acidic and lemony petals, that go well with fish, shellfish and... foie gras!

The pretty blue flowers of the borage with their cucumber taste of the sea can be eaten alone, they have their fans. In the blue corner, we should also mention artichoke-tasting cornflowers, pale lilac with its musky flavour and the sweet but bitter violet. Bright yellow marigold or calendula, slightly bitter and peppery, is used to spice up food instead of saffron. But you should look out for the French marigold, "Mexico's tarragon", a sacred and medicinal plant for the Aztecs and Mayans as, when taken without moderation it is hallucinogenic... Bon appétrip !

Elido

 

TRUE LIES !

Issue 12 from 20/03 to 01/04/13

The «intermittents du spectacle» in France (French audiovisual and film technicians and actors) are currently circulating a film online where one of their coordinators screens a report shown on «C dans l'air» on January 29th (a current affairs programme), which covered the specific unemployment benefit system for audiovisual technicians and actors. Each time the report mentions something he considers to be untrue; he stops the film and corrects it. The online film is called «Ripostes», it lasts a quarter of an hour and is quite worrying. Especially if we have preconceived notions about show business workers and their neverending issues. Even Yves Calvi, the programme’s remarkable presenter is corrected on a figure…

In the United States, the «Washington Post» is in the process of setting up an online system that will correct any lying politician in real time. To be more precise, a big red «FALSE» in capital letters will appear on the screen immediately thanks to an application linked to an archive of established facts.

Dark days for lying on TV?
After having a free rein for so long, is it about to be found out by the new screens ? Is it soon to be caught out at the slightest sign of party politics, post-electoral u-turns or dodgy dealings… Isn’t the war on lies more of an angelic utopia ? Sport, health, food, religion… Is there a resistance in the making ? By injecting high doses of truth serum. The truth will out eventually…

M.A.

 

L'Avenue
LA BOUTIQUE EN LIGNE DE L'ACHARNŒUR.
Pour en savoir plus sur les pièces uniques ou
en édition limitée, cliquez sur les différentes vitrines!

Let It Be - 63€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

 

THE LET IT BE SELECTION
FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from soft leather and white metal, it is both chic and gothic, ultra-precious and rock and roll. The clasp dresses the wrist with a refinement and originality that attracts all women, regardless of their age or style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur and also available without the skull.

 

Price: 63€ with skull.
58€ without skull.

Without skull item or with a bow also avalaible.

Caractéristiques produit

- Leather bracelet
- Bracelet chain in plate silver
- Skull clasp in stainless Zamac 
- Sizes available: 32cm, 34 or 36cm (made-to-measure on request)

Let It Be Men - 54€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

 

THE LET IT BE SELECTION
FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from leather and white magnetic metal, it is both male and chic, elegant and rock and roll. Perfect alliance between sobriety and confirmed style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur.

 

Price: 54€ 

Caractéristiques produit

- Leather bracelet with "piqûre selleir"
- Magnetic clasp in silvered Zamac 
- Sizes available: 20cm or 22cm (made-to-measure on request)

Lord SM - 180€

Lord SM was set up in 2009, and making luxury from vintage is something they know. It all began with the designer reworking morning suits to make them more « Rock Couture ». Slowly but surely she let her inspiration develop with scarves, bags, leather jackets, tunics, dresses… The terms « Union Jack » or « Mini Jack » are used for the scarves only she knows the secret to. Her « Ring of Fire » scarves are the stuff dreams are made of and we have a total crush on her fringed bags. Her pieces already have a cult following and her Spring/Summer 2013 collection was presented at Tranoï. The world is Lord SM’s oyster.

 

L’ACHARNŒUR CHOOSES

A Mini-Jack in vintage fabric and noble materials. Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet and leather all blended in a unique patchwork. The cut is the result of hours of work, stitching and imagination, which makes it adaptable to all shapes. The model is unisex and universal. 100% made in Paris, 100% Lord SM. New pieces available in the same shades.

 

One-off piece. Price: 180 € taxes inclued

Mini-Jack unisexe Lord SM.

Caractéristiques produit

- Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet, leather, cotton patchwork…
- 60x60 cm
- Folded in a triangle

Aline Lang - 80€

Aline Lang is a photographer and graphic artist who one day, for fun, drew a bracelet watch like a piece of film. A designer at Cartier, Omega, liked it and oriented her into watch face design. Her first watch was for the bicentenary of the French revolution. Since then she has designed over forty watches, including one for the Bibliothèque nationale. Her rare and unusual creations are born from her inspiration and are produced as limited editions.

 

THE ACHARNŒUR’S SELECTION

 

The Gallops watch. An homage to chronophotography (the decomposition of a movement by a succession of photographs) and to Muybridge’s work that in 1878, proved that the four legs of a horse leave the ground at the same time when the horse gallops. This watch was first made by a big luxury house before being edited by the Musée d’Orsay. Its leather bracelet and particularly flat face makes this version timeless.

 

Limited edition. 10 pieces available.
Price: 80 €.

Gallops Watch

Caractéristiques produit

- Case in chromed brass
- Black leather bracelet 
- Quartz movement
- Made in France, Alsace.

Uni&Vintage -198€

Behind Uni&Vintage is the eye and imagination of one Christine Ekodo-Delaunay. So, what is her USP? She cuts up vintage clothes, scarves and fabrics, puts them together if needed with a specially dyed satin to help the fabrics blend and makes an entirely new piece. Skirts, shirts, trousers, tunics: the Uni&Vintage line proposes exclusive cuts that fall differently according to colours and prints. As a result, each design is unique and numbered as part of a broader collection.

 

 A UNI&VINTAGE DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

A vintage Lanvin headscarf, satin dyed in verdigris, a « kimono » cut, together form the skirt specially made for l’Acharnœur. The multitude of colours blend delicately as the bands superimpose with modernity. The inner belt is adaptable so the skirt falls perfectly on everyone regardless of size. The outer belt dresses the entire waist for an ultra-refined effect. This piece is number 1045 of the Uni&Vintage brand.

 

One-off piece. Price: 298€ taxes inclued

Uni&Vintage silk and satin skirt. Piece number 1045.

Caractéristiques produit

- Front and outer belt: vintage Lanvin headscarf 100 % silk 
- Back and inner bands: 66% satin and 33% cotton 
- Kimono belt
- Size 2

Gabriella de Galzain - 125€

She used to work under the name «Frénétik». Today Gabriella de Galzain is coming out of hiding and is launching her eponymous brand. She makes baroque, romantic, rock n’ roll jewellery that expresses a bohemian spirit of elegance and freedom, paying homage to the most beautiful icons. Her undeniable talent can be seen in brooches, necklaces, earrings, cuff-links… She counts many stars among her greatest fans and some of her pieces tell the most beautiful stories. 

 

A GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

We requested an homage to the Eiffel Tower. Only for l'Acharnœur, Gabriella de Galzain came up with this timeless yet contemporary brooch. The blend of off-whites means it can be worn at all times. Pearls, chains, crystals, ceramic flowers… The codes of elegance and femininity with an essential touch of impertinence. All the audacity of the “Grand Dame” herself.


Item made to order. 
Special price: 125€ taxes inclued

«La Parisienne» brooch

Caractéristiques produit

- Resin beading and icons
- Resin flowers, glass cabochon, crystal Swarovski rhinestones
- Base in silver-plated copper
- Silver-plated brass chains
- Icon high : 10cm
- Total high (with chains) : 24 cm 

corruption
Ils nous ont demandé d'en parler.
Comme on a aimé ce qu’ils proposaient, on l’a fait... À notre façon !
  • 07- Corruption

THE HONEY AND THE BEES

Issue 7 from 09/01 to 22/01/13

So you want to be in great shape to get through the darker winter months ? A good spoonful or spread of honey on your toast has always provided some much-needed vitality… Except, if things go on like this, honey will end up as a luxury product ! Go on like what ? Not protecting our bees. They are coming under serious threat : parasites, pesticides… Sad !

In an attempt to stop the plague, a number of companies have been set up to propose the adoption of hives. A bucolic and poetic concept that also happens to be effective! Interested ? Well, check out monmiel.fr.

To begin with, the founder is a true nature and bee-lover. He buys land and small parcels of forest to set up his hives in protected environments. He ensures the sources of pollen in the environs and lets the bees work away as they wish: free, with their own rhythms and feeding on all flowers. 
Then, monmiel.fr has a very clear offer: either you sponsor a number of bees – and as such a part of the swarm – or you adopt a full hive. If you choose the latter option, the ruche « belongs » to you for as long as you wish: you can name it, choose the colour, the shape and no-one else can adopt the same hive (which is not always the case elsewhere). You are kept abreast of all developments, photos are sent… A nice way of doing things!
What happens to the honey? It’s all yours ! according to the formula you choose, you will receive a certain number of pots that are, in the case of an adoption, labelled with the name of your hive ! They are sent to your home after harvest which takes place only once the bees have finished working. The bees decide, no-one else… 

The final bonus, the cost. It covers, for the main part, the manufacturing of the French-made wooden hives, to buy equipment, pots, maintain the land… Nothing excessive. So there’s no sting in the tail…

M.V.

• For more informations : monmiel.fr
• Little gift for l'Acharnœur readers' : sponsor 4000 bees or adopt a full hive in "formule "Découverte", one honey pot in sup is offert.

  

Idylle

EITO RING

Issue 12 from 20/03 to 01/04/13

A daring design using criss-cross structure that makes the monument so particular. Each piece is made by the artist himself. For men and for women. Unique.

449€ for the solid silver piece. Gold on request. For sale exclusively at l’Œuf, 9 rue Clauzel, 75009 Paris. For more information : loeufparis.com

station

BRIOCHERIE - TOURS
Tours Station
Line "Fil Bleu"

  • 10- Station

Issue 10 from 20/02 to 05/03/13

The inhabitants of Tours know where to go. They are refined connoisseurs of their culinary heritage and since 1907, have been queuing up for these divine brioches! The store frontage is relatively charmless, the interior is sparse, but no matter, the delicious odour of brioches of various types has us drooling immediately; often still warm, they come small, big, round, rectangle, sweet versions with chocolate, chestnut puree, but also savoury with blue cheese sauce or salmon… Travellers, do yourselves a favour, take a look, it’s a stone’s throw from the station!  Enjoyment guaranteed!

Briocherie Lelong
13, place Général Leclerc - 37000 Tours 

quotidien
  • 13- Quotibien

    Harold Lloyd in "Safety Last", 1923

TIME LAPSE

Issue 13 from 03/04 to 16/04/13

We all have at least one friend who is always late, whether they live twenty metres away or twenty kilometres. The trend seems to be getting worse and is transforming our dinner parties, without us really noticing. A little non-exhaustive tour of the different types of latecomer, just to get to know our friends a little better :

- The «well-mannered»; the only person who knows that it is good manners to arrive fifteen minutes after the stated time just in case the hostess has got the zip on her Zara dress stuck…
- The «snob»; basically he is doing you a huge favour by even showing up so it is perfectly normal that you wait for him like the Messiah with the red carpet (average lateness 1 ½ to 2 hours, and when he gets there he sulks as he sees everyone having a great time without him)
- The «you’ll never believe what happened»; the expert in the last minute cock-up: the babysitter took off to Acapulco with the jewellery, the youngest broke three teeth just when they were walking out the door (average lateness 2 hours, unless they don’t actually manage to make it and end up messing your seating plan with two tragic gaps.)
- The «stubborn»; despite repeated warnings on the impossibility of finding a parking space in your neighbourhood, he still comes in the car, calls from down stairs proudly to say : «See, I’m on time ! I’m just downstairs, I’ll park and be right up» (average lateness between ¾ and 1 ¼ hours, blaming you for living in such a lousy neighbourhood, pretends not to smell the persistent smell of burnt turkey that you, trusting soul that you are have already put in the oven.)
- The «not sure of himself»; he wrecks your night and his by staying downstairs waiting until everyone gets there so he can arrive «free and clear». As a result he totally misses the vibe and ends up slumped on the couch all night.

Finally, there is the «common or garden» latecomer who is never more than half an hour later, arrives with a smile, an apology and a bunch of flowers, reconciling us with all the other troublemakers who will never change anyway !

Stéphanie Norris

 

junior_suite
Ce que les placards, les murs ou les tiroirs de notre chambre d'adolescent
racontent sur nous aujourd'hui.
  • 18- Junior Suite

    Source Favim. Photo © Wil Freeborn

CINEMA IN A DRAWER

Issue 18 from 12/06 to 25/06/13

Saint-Omer, Pas-de-Calais, 1957. Rue Jules-Ferry, N°6. I waited eleven years to get my own room, inheriting it from my brother who had just left to get married.
The room was tiny. One Spartan bed. One chair, like in the Van Gogh painting. One wardrobe in pale wood, salvaged from the war. Families who had been bombarded were re-housed and summarily re-furnished. 

The central item was the desk, known as the «minister’s» desk, which smelt of varnish and had nine drawers (two columns of four and one in the middle that could be locked), that my parents bought for me. It was my domain, a working desk where only I understood the organised chaos. Everything in the drawers was filed, thousands of precious or useless documents, half-finished manuscripts and attempts at cartoons – which soon were to include cinema magazines. Books piled up in the wardrobe.

There were no ornaments and very little decoration, except a plaster statue of the Virgin Mary perched on a corner of the wardrobe. The inevitable crucifix at the head of the bed. On the walls, a few beer mats and postcards I had framed.
I didn’t have a radio but the minute I got home from primary school, and secondary, I would run in to borrow my sister’s transistor which I put on the desk from 5 to 7. From 1961 on I listened to «Salut les copains» every day. I got my hands on a tape recorder and taped everything possible.

From my window I could see the silhouette of the cathedral where there was a «Son et Lumière» every night. At night, the voices came through distorted, with a surreal echo. Perhaps shaping my taste for the fantastic early on. It was to be the subject of my first book, written on that very desk on a little Olivetti typewriter that had replaced my mother’s old Underwood, a relic from the thirties.

I went on to write about the cinema, music, cartoons, for the press, publishing, to earn a living, for pleasure. As they say, it’s all I know.

Gérard Lenne, film critic

• Discover Gérard Lenne books' on amazon

 

Collaborateurs

  • Directrice de la Publication et de la Rédaction
    Virginie Achard
  • Directrice Artistique
    Perrine Lebas
  • Concepteur web
    Franck Biehler
  • Chroniqueurs
    Maurice Achard, Bianca Alberti, Bruno Lancelot, Elido, Marie Veyrier, Stéphanie Norris
  • Traductrice
    Tresi Murphy

Invités

PHOTOGRAPHE METAPHORE
Eugenio Recuenco

AGENT PHOTOGRAPHE METAPHORE
Noucha Shahbazi, lebookmaker.com

PHOTOGRAPHES ÉDITORIAL
Odile Berthemy, l'Acharnœur