edito

Issue number 24. It’s back-to-school for most of us. In the schoolyards, the end of the holidays also means meeting up with friends again. In the Acharnœur office, the end of the special summer editions (n°21, 22, 23) means back to new articles to share our humours, or sense of humour and our amour… And we’re off. Next issue on September 18th.

truc_du_jour

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respect
  • 24- Respect

    Photo © Odile Berthemy

EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED!

September is here and that usually means a return to boring routines. But even though habits can be reassuring and it’s good to be home again, it would be nice to maintain an element of surprise, of the unexpected, or the unplanned (even though we do try to over-plan everything!).

What we love best about free time is not so much the chance to do things we enjoy but the possibility of leaving things to chance. Chance means adventure. You only need to look at people who are on vacation but who don’t leave home and get a buzz from wandering around their own city. As nothing is more stimulating than being forced out of one’s routine. Indeed, who has never felt a thrill when bumping into someone from your everyday life out of context on a journey for example? Has anyone noticed that regardless of the stack of DVDs beside the TV, we still prefer to watch a much-loved film when it is broadcast on regular TV? The unexpected pleasure is more powerful than the accessible desire. Human nature always aspires to another dimension. Beyond the fourth?

When things go our way we tend to think “Lady Luck” is on our side. A “pure chance” is a happy coincidence. To chance our luck means we give something a go. But more and more often, worry and prudence mean we “leave nothing to chance” and science tends to factor out luck with ever more precise forecasts. The problem is, chance is part of everything. The French term “hasard” comes from the Arab “az-zahr” which means “the dice”, and in life, it is better when the die is not cast, otherwise all bets are off. As the Prussian officer Carl von Clausewitz once said: “Military plans that leave no room for the unexpected can lead to disaster”. 
So, let’s be reasonable and stay open to surprises… 

Bruno Lancelot

 

beurk
  • 24- Beurk

    Photo des émeutes de 2005 ayant illustré celles de Trappes.

NEWS COUNTERFEITERS

We already know that software like Photoshop can retouch photos of models and celebrities perpetuating the impression of perfect beauty. We also know that the news, in a dictatorship or war can be false for propaganda reasons.
However, who could have imagined that in the France of 2013, at a time when the freedom of expression and the press is being trumpeted all over the place, that the photos used to illustrate the news could possibly be misleading. The issue is frightening all the same as even if we don’t read the article in question, the message passed on by the image will have entered our minds all the same. 

Recently, two events have yet again undergone the experience. During a march in favour of “marriage for all”, the slogan on a banner was changed before being published online and went viral at the speed of light on social media. This happens all the time. Of course the tampered-with message caused a huge polemic accentuating the tension between the “fors” and “againsts”. During the riots in Trappes last July, a photo dating from 2005 and relating to the incidents in Clichy-sous-Bois was used as illustration online. Where all this gets worrying though is that even the TF1 News website published it, if only for a few minutes, but long enough to create the mix-up. Or that on France 2, an actual news report showed an image of a burning bus that also dated from 2005. These “errors” only served to reinforce an already consequential level of violence. And with one glance we all take it to be the gospel truth. 

The subject, party or political ideas matter little. Everyone is concerned. Anyone can manipulate or be manipulated. What is really serious is that such forgery has started to infiltrate our information channels. Worse, that certain journalists, increasingly under pressure to “sex-up” the news, don’t have time to check the source. Truth-telling is the very building block of this profession, even though the truth is always seen through the prism of each individual’s opinion. Today we have crossed over into lies. Lies that only serve to accentuate hatred and ignorance.

So the next time we get outraged about the way certain countries control access to the news, we would do better to put our own house in order. 

Marie Veyrier

 

billard

CATASTROPHE SERIES

So this summer was one disaster after another. Train crashes, drownings, mountain accidents.
With each event, the idea of disasters happening together is mentioned. But what could be the reason? Bad luck?

Why on earth? Because of an old tradition that says that bad things happened in threes, that disasters cluster, as if the sky was unleashing its anger, hitting out more than once, without premeditation or impunity… Well.
Let’s take things a little further to the unconscious side of things. Yes the unconscious side: what if the first event influenced the second, even when the circumstances are totally unrelated? The Brétigny train-driver cannot be blamed for what happened while the Spanish driver was entirely responsible. 

But then, what was he playing at when he drove at extreme speed coming up to a dangerous bend just before Santiago de Compostela station, while on the phone? Was he not just unconsciously unnerved by the events of three days previously and found himself attracted or sucked in by the same crash? Only to declare minutes later: « I just hope no one died».
To a certain extent, the same goes for the swimmer or the mountain climber. The same confusion sets in suddenly, an unspeakable doubt pops into their minds after hearing the worst as they are setting off. They are ambushed by the same disarray, thinking “it only happens to others”. Those other people who are always at fault.
Those other people who are not only hell, but from whom hell comes.

Maurice Achard

 

floraison
Un livre, un film, une musique... quelques années, décennies ou siècles plus tard.
Quand la culture n’en finit pas de fleurir.
  • 24- Floraison

    Original pictures from the album in 1967

«ANNA», PREMIERE

How can we properly define the «Anna» that, in January 1967, created havoc among TV critics and viewers alike? A musical, yes. But it is really a sung film. At the time, the term used was “dramatiques”. Today, the term is “TV movie”. But this could also have been a feature film for the cinema.

And that’s not all. “Anna” is a sultry blend of the diverse influences of the time: the free, romantic tone of the new wave, represented by Anna Karina and Jean-Claude Brialy, the main theme - the idealization of love in the hippy era, and the very “English” sound of Serge Gainsbourg’s soundtrack.
Its broadcast was the event that broke the television “de papa” away from its Gaullist grip. The youth of 1967 took over the next day thanks to the simultaneous release of the soundtrack album. The album itself was innovative as it hopped from songs (also by Gainsbourg) to snatches of dialogue (by Jean-Loup Dabadie), which enabled fans to replay the movie in their heads.

But… weirdly the director’s name –Pierre Koralnik– is practically unknown. And who knows that “Sous le soleil exactement” comes from that soundtrack? It is even the opening number, sung by Anna Karina…
The hit is more famous than the film which was never released in VHS, and went unnoticed on DVD and as a remastered CD.

On September 5th next it will be brought up to date at the Théâtre du Rond-point, as the musical production “Anna”, with Cécile de France in the title role. Will the original find its place in the sun as a result?

M.A.

• See a film clip
• Lesson to a musical extract Rien Rien J'Disais Ca Comme Ca from Gainsbourg

 

 

Métaphore

TOTEMS

China is fascinates due to its economic metamorphosis and huge production volumes and here it is cleverly symbolised. With much humanism, Alain Delorme makes individuals grow –laborious ants balancing precariously on piles of objects– to give them value in "Totems".

foodoir
  • 24- Foodoir

    Photo © Odile Berthemy

SOUP TALES

Soup with everything? You bet!

Once upon a time, one dish featured on every table. Dating from 500BC, even prehistoric men enjoyed its delicate steam and varied tastes. It was cooked in sheep’s stomachs or animal skins and nourished old and young. From north to south, east to west, each civilization concocted its own recipes and added its own spices.

Dinner with friends, a quick lunch break, a family meal… Today, soup is suitable for all occasions. It must be said that it has managed to adapt and evolve… From “potage” to “velouté” it has different gastronomical names depending on its consistency and ingredients: the thick vegetable soups that our grandmothers made putting everything within their reach into the saucepan like some magic potion, the cold, spicy, tomatoey Spanish Gaspacho, bouillon for hot liquid, Italian minestrone with vegetables and bacon simmering together, not to mention Japanese miso, Vietnamese soups… Casting up memories and tempting us to travel.

Soup, as a result, can now be found in many shapes and sizes. Entire shelves in the supermarket are given over to such a vast range that it is hard to know where to look. In sachets, in cartons, homemade, with fish, meat, rice, herbs… Even in restaurants! Soup bars are popping up all over the place selling savoury soups but also sweet ones, like strawberry soup…

«Eat up your soup, it will make you grow». It has to be said, from a nutritional point of view, this vegetable cocktail contains a wide range of recommended daily intakes. They are made up of water for the most part but are also a source of fibres, minerals, and vitamins essential to the workings of our organism. 

So, it’s time to give it a go! Autumn is on the way and there’s nothing like a nice bowl of soup to satisfy our desires. Let’s travel the world on a spoon. 

Mégane Seure
 

THE PRESENT THROUGH THE AGES

The Internet has taken over from television among the 13-19 age group. It might not come as a surprise but it is now official. It was announced on the TV itself, on the eight o’ clock news on France 2. With computers, tablets and mobiles phones, between music, videos and programmes “à la carte”, they make their own listings.
At the same time, Cyril Hanouna, the most popular TV personality with the 13-19 age-group is back on D8 while starting a radio show Europe 1 with Pierre Bellemare as a guest contributor, a veteran French broadcaster who, fifty years ago, was a huge producer-presenter of game-shows and other light entertainment.
At the same time, Antoine de Caunes made his return to Canal+ not without mentioning his previous career on the night of his first “Grand Journal” and his early days, “when mobile phones and the Internet didn’t exist…” In fact, he was the pioneer of a new, rapid-fire delivery on television, a kind of oral high-speed… Before becoming the high point of the totally left-field “Nulle part ailleurs”.

So two ex-avant gardists ringing the changes. Can this be seen as a representation of time flying into the future but without rejecting the old ways, time going forward but not losing its marks, the essential tracks?
We thought that time had no time for old-timers. Maybe it’s not that thankless after all.

M.A.

 

L'Avenue
LA BOUTIQUE EN LIGNE DE L'ACHARNŒUR.
Pour en savoir plus sur les pièces uniques ou
en édition limitée, cliquez sur les différentes vitrines!

Uni&Vintage -198€

Behind Uni&Vintage is the eye and imagination of one Christine Ekodo-Delaunay. So, what is her USP? She cuts up vintage clothes, scarves and fabrics, puts them together if needed with a specially dyed satin to help the fabrics blend and makes an entirely new piece. Skirts, shirts, trousers, tunics: the Uni&Vintage line proposes exclusive cuts that fall differently according to colours and prints. As a result, each design is unique and numbered as part of a broader collection.

 

 A UNI&VINTAGE DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

A vintage Lanvin headscarf, satin dyed in verdigris, a « kimono » cut, together form the skirt specially made for l’Acharnœur. The multitude of colours blend delicately as the bands superimpose with modernity. The inner belt is adaptable so the skirt falls perfectly on everyone regardless of size. The outer belt dresses the entire waist for an ultra-refined effect. This piece is number 1045 of the Uni&Vintage brand.

 

One-off piece. Price: 298€ taxes inclued

Uni&Vintage silk and satin skirt. Piece number 1045.

Caractéristiques produit

- Front and outer belt: vintage Lanvin headscarf 100 % silk 
- Back and inner bands: 66% satin and 33% cotton 
- Kimono belt
- Size 2

Lord SM - 180€

Lord SM was set up in 2009, and making luxury from vintage is something they know. It all began with the designer reworking morning suits to make them more « Rock Couture ». Slowly but surely she let her inspiration develop with scarves, bags, leather jackets, tunics, dresses… The terms « Union Jack » or « Mini Jack » are used for the scarves only she knows the secret to. Her « Ring of Fire » scarves are the stuff dreams are made of and we have a total crush on her fringed bags. Her pieces already have a cult following and her Spring/Summer 2013 collection was presented at Tranoï. The world is Lord SM’s oyster.

 

L’ACHARNŒUR CHOOSES

A Mini-Jack in vintage fabric and noble materials. Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet and leather all blended in a unique patchwork. The cut is the result of hours of work, stitching and imagination, which makes it adaptable to all shapes. The model is unisex and universal. 100% made in Paris, 100% Lord SM. New pieces available in the same shades.

 

One-off piece. Price: 180 € taxes inclued

Mini-Jack unisexe Lord SM.

Caractéristiques produit

- Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet, leather, cotton patchwork…
- 60x60 cm
- Folded in a triangle

Aline Lang - 80€

Aline Lang is a photographer and graphic artist who one day, for fun, drew a bracelet watch like a piece of film. A designer at Cartier, Omega, liked it and oriented her into watch face design. Her first watch was for the bicentenary of the French revolution. Since then she has designed over forty watches, including one for the Bibliothèque nationale. Her rare and unusual creations are born from her inspiration and are produced as limited editions.

 

THE ACHARNŒUR’S SELECTION

 

The Gallops watch. An homage to chronophotography (the decomposition of a movement by a succession of photographs) and to Muybridge’s work that in 1878, proved that the four legs of a horse leave the ground at the same time when the horse gallops. This watch was first made by a big luxury house before being edited by the Musée d’Orsay. Its leather bracelet and particularly flat face makes this version timeless.

 

Limited edition. 10 pieces available.
Price: 80 €.

Gallops Watch

Caractéristiques produit

- Case in chromed brass
- Black leather bracelet 
- Quartz movement
- Made in France, Alsace.

Let It Be Men - 54€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

 

THE LET IT BE SELECTION
FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from leather and white magnetic metal, it is both male and chic, elegant and rock and roll. Perfect alliance between sobriety and confirmed style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur.

 

Price: 54€ 

Caractéristiques produit

- Leather bracelet with "piqûre selleir"
- Magnetic clasp in silvered Zamac 
- Sizes available: 20cm or 22cm (made-to-measure on request)

Let It Be - 63€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

 

THE LET IT BE SELECTION
FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from soft leather and white metal, it is both chic and gothic, ultra-precious and rock and roll. The clasp dresses the wrist with a refinement and originality that attracts all women, regardless of their age or style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur and also available without the skull.

 

Price: 63€ with skull.
58€ without skull.

Without skull item or with a bow also avalaible.

Caractéristiques produit

- Leather bracelet
- Bracelet chain in plate silver
- Skull clasp in stainless Zamac 
- Sizes available: 32cm, 34 or 36cm (made-to-measure on request)

Gabriella de Galzain - 125€

She used to work under the name «Frénétik». Today Gabriella de Galzain is coming out of hiding and is launching her eponymous brand. She makes baroque, romantic, rock n’ roll jewellery that expresses a bohemian spirit of elegance and freedom, paying homage to the most beautiful icons. Her undeniable talent can be seen in brooches, necklaces, earrings, cuff-links… She counts many stars among her greatest fans and some of her pieces tell the most beautiful stories. 

 

A GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

We requested an homage to the Eiffel Tower. Only for l'Acharnœur, Gabriella de Galzain came up with this timeless yet contemporary brooch. The blend of off-whites means it can be worn at all times. Pearls, chains, crystals, ceramic flowers… The codes of elegance and femininity with an essential touch of impertinence. All the audacity of the “Grand Dame” herself.


Item made to order. 
Special price: 125€ taxes inclued

«La Parisienne» brooch

Caractéristiques produit

- Resin beading and icons
- Resin flowers, glass cabochon, crystal Swarovski rhinestones
- Base in silver-plated copper
- Silver-plated brass chains
- Icon high : 10cm
- Total high (with chains) : 24 cm 

Idylle

PONCHO GALLERY

A timeless cashmere garment. A piece that keeps you warm on winter evenings but also on summer ones! A garment that goes with everything. In short, the sartorial equivalent of the cuddly toy…

190€ for the classic cashmere. On sale at the boutique on 11 rue de la Sourdière, 75001 Paris or on ponchogallery.com

station

RESTAURANT - PARIS
Station Abbesses
Line 12

Montmartre is already like a village within the capital, an otherworld inside the city, but there is a restaurant hidden down a little street in the Abbesses quarter that brings the final touch to a desire for escape. Bound for Spain. The decor of the restaurant will not necessarily tell you that but the menu will. Plenty of tapas and dishes made by the boss herself who hasn’t let standards drop over the years. Generous portions and pricing that makes the recession melt away. The type of address that one prefers to keep secret. But between us…

Kezako
12, rue de Véron, 75018 Paris
Reservation is recommended  
 

  • 24- Station
quotidien
  • 24- Quotichien

    Illustration © Charlot

LITTLE BOX OF HORRORS

It’s probably a good thing that the postman now comes a little later. It means our mood isn’t ruined for the day. You have to admit: checking one’s post has become a decidedly unpleasant experience!

It could even be termed “post box anxiety”. No more news from friends, surprises like a long-lost Uncle Sam … (obviously not a regular occurrence, but we lived in hope). Today, the postman only brings bills, official letters that are rarely good news, junk mail, advertising brochures that fill the bin… The invasion is such that you sometimes need to double check that an important letter isn’t hidden in between two catalogues before throwing them out. And then there is the famous black plastic… Unmissable… You can’t pick it up without worrying if the taxman has a bad surprise in store… In September, finding out the amount due is always harrowing. But so is the declaration in May and the payment of local taxes in December… One for every season! Finally, every now and again a neighbour’s letter is slipped into your box by accident. Of course, you open it by mistake and read a few lines before you realize that the order for high-protein diet supplements isn’t for you. Then you have to decide how to get the letter back to its rightful owner… Hand it over in person while trying to explain the mistake to your unimpressed and doubting neighbor? Sliding the already opened envelope into the right box, thus leading to an atmosphere of general paranoia in the building or neighbourhood?

There’s always the resistance option… Boycotting the post on a Friday altogether for example. At least it saves the weekend in case there is a “bombshell” that you can’t deal with until Monday anyway. Or, start writing to your friends in the hopes that they will write back! Apparently, last summer, no less than 300 million postcards were sent… Maybe all is not lost! 

Bianca Alberti


junior_suite
Ce que les placards, les murs ou les tiroirs de notre chambre d'adolescent
racontent sur nous aujourd'hui.
  • 24- Junior Suite

    Montage © Alice Dardun

CRAZY CEILING

The door-knob squeaks a little, like it always did. No one has slept here since I left. I do a quick inventory, nothing has changed. The walls have been repainted but I can easily imagine my room as it was when we first met with yellow and red stripes so bright that I always thought I had forgotten to switch off the light. There is my bookcase, filled with books that I knew off by heart. Here’s the fireplace, decorated with the paw prints of a mysterious feline painted by my grandmother. But above all, the ceiling.

When I was small, my room was filled with toys, but like most kids, I didn’t need much to invent the craziest stories. Singer, writer, world traveler, but always a successful career, I spent hours imagining my future as a fulfilled woman once the bedside lamp went off. Right at that moment, things kicked off, my ceiling became my screen and my eyes projectors. While the images flew by, I would add a soundtrack and extensive dialogue that formed naturally, inspired by the films I saw, events I had seen during the day, adult discussions I had heard around the dinner table. I would make my own film.
One day, my child’s bed was replaced by one of those immensely fashionable mezzanines. I found myself even closer to my dreams, I could almost touch them.
Then the years went by. I grew up, getting closer to the ceiling of each apartment I would visit. When I reached my present height (Ed: A good metre seventy-five), and I was asked to take the first step in my professional life I thought I chose photography school by a process of elimination.

I was wrong. I now understand that it was there, in that little room with yellow and red walls, comfortably settled, blinds closed and eyes wide open, that I was predestined to develop a passion for images that has become my job. 

Alice Dardun

 

Collaborateurs

  • Directrice de la Publication et de la Rédaction
    Virginie Achard
  • Directrice Artistique
    Perrine Lebas
  • Concepteur web
    Franck Biehler
  • Chroniqueurs
    Maurice Achard, Bianca Alberti, Bruno Lancelot, Elido, Marie Veyrier, Stéphanie Norris
  • Traductrice
    Tresi Murphy

Invités

PHOTOGRAPHE METAPHORE
Alain Delorme

PHOTOGRAPHES ÉDITORIAL
Odile Berthemy, Alice Dardun

ILLUSTRATION
Charlot 

CHRONIQUEURS
Mégane Seure, Alice Dardun