edito

A new online magazine that covers culture, fashion, designers, food trends, the art of living – or not – in Paris and elsewhere? Yes, absolutely. But with a twist. And there’s more. But you can be the judge. Welcome to the world of l’Acharnœur.

truc_du_jour

  • 01-News qui court

    L’Acharnœur launches on Wednesday, October 17th. Sur les pavés, la vie en rose.

respect
  • 01-Respect

    Car in tears. Photo © Odile Berthemy

LACKING OXYGEN

Old and young, rich and poor, men, women, drivers and walkers, families and singletons, French and foreign. All together at the Paris motor show. Is the car the great leveller?

Well, not for much longer. The car has a rough ride ahead. There’s the recession obviously, and the price of petrol doesn’t help, but above all there is the discourse. Guilt-ridden, contradictory, compelling. Yes, cars pollute, yes, cars are dangerous. But that’s nothing new despite what one might gather from the proposals to solve the problem. Do-gooder solutions that do no good. As a result, the car is being turned into a dirty, unfit, superfluous object. A whim. The driver is becoming the selfish, unthinking bad guy.

The thing is, it is still a practical invention that improves the lives of many people and that can, in addition, be a real treat for the eyes and mind through its design or functions. Therein lies the strength of the car. In the way it blends utility and futility for once without shame or conflict. Why break that? A car is a slice of life itself. Cars are where we share emotions, journeys, memories. You can sleep in them, make love in them. Their bodywork or engine can be a source of conversation between total strangers. Cars represent the possibility of all kinds of adventure and escape. Even the smallest of vehicles can be a source of extreme pleasure. No need to go to the top of the range. Remember the 2CV, the Fiat 500, the Volkswagen Beetle? Apparently we remember them so well that they are still used as inspiration for new models.

 An attempt perhaps to bring back the dream? Perhaps all it needs is a bit of air. Even if it is polluted.

 Marie Veyrier


 
beurk
  • 01-Beurk

    Photo © Marc Beaussart

RED CARPET

Most French women dream of owning a pair, women around the world fantasise about the possibility. Why? To some extent for the « house red » that covers the sole of every shoe he makes. Mr. Christian Louboutin, who else? 

We have to admit that his collections are brimming with timeless or unwearable treasures that are always a treat for the eyes and the epitome of femininity reminding everyone of the power of the heel. And we’re not going to lie, here in the office, we like ‘em, we wear ‘em. 

So what on earth is Christian Louboutin doing in the « Yuck » section? It just so happens that when you claim a signature to the extent that in the U.S. it is a trademark, you had better make sure of the quality. There’s the rub, the problem is the sole and the Louboutin house red. Unfortunately the designer’s trademark wears off with every step leaving a dodgy grey patch. 

The issue is news to no one. It starts in the store, you fall for a pair but the salesperson requests that you walk only on the carpet to try them so as not to damage the precious surface. The difficulty then shifts to the numerous sites and forums where fashionistas exchange tips on how to remedy the problem such as « stick a transparent adhesive strip » on the sole to protect it. Of course, Christian Louboutin does propose a solution: one shoe repair shop, and only one, in Paris. For only 96 Euros and a month-long wait, they will repair your leather soles before you go back out and damage them again. Or, for 25 Euros you can have an half rubber sole fitted. A Louboutin rubber sole, how chic.

Or not. So, what can you do? Keep worshipping and turn a blind eye? Calculate mileage? How about dyed leather? Too complicated. So we will just have to take our lead from Disney. By letting Christian Louboutin create what could have been Cinderella’s famous glass slipper. At least Disney was able to make sure the lost one stayed intact a little longer. That hadn’t occurred to us. All we wanted was to play at being a princess anyway.

Virginie Achard

 
 
billard

X-RAY

So, sex has become the norm in literature.

Pure literature, that of high-brow authors has lost its virginity over the years. We no longer have to put up with the tortuous prudery of an Albert Cohen or the meaningful silences of a Françoise Sagan. We can now call a pussy a pussy and all modesty has been dispensed with! This literary season, in books by Olivier Adam, Florian Zeller or Philippe Djian, it is obvious that the use of direct vocabulary comes naturally to today’s writers when talking about bodies, sex, fantasies, even violence. Even if the reader who might still be fond of the tone of such writers can still surprisingly be surprised… 
Indeed, erotic literature has always been with us. But it was always considered a «specialist category», the path taken by de Sade’s offspring, the great stylists such as Bernard Noël or Pierre Bourgeade, to name but two. Today, their universe appears to have been «confiscated» as such. We shouldn’t forget that they were the ones who won the censorship battle. And that was no mean achievement.

So the liberated machine is up and running and quality doesn’t seem to be an issue. This season sees the launch on October 17th of the French translation of the first part of the «mummy porn» trilogy. Worldwide sales of 40 million so far mainly to women aged between 30 and 50 prove the popularity of this story of an S&M-loving billionaire and his young virgin mistress in this particular tick box. The hero is called Grey, hence the title Fifty Shades of Grey
Rather delicate, given the title of the Zeller is La jouissance (The Orgasm)… One wonders which boob, sorry book to turn to.

Maurice Achard
 
floraison
Un livre, un film, une musique... quelques années, décennies ou siècles plus tard.
Quand la culture n’en finit pas de fleurir.
  • 01-Floraison

    Credit © Stéphane Barbery (detail)

THE POINT OF ELEGANCE

Everything that could be said has been said about Muriel Barbery’s the Elegance of the hedgehog. Or has it… 

The novel, published in 2006 kept critics and conversations going for a long time. Some praised it, other were exasperated. Some loved it, others decried it as a collection of clichés. Some were thrilled with its success, others would have preferred that it hadn’t overshadowed the launches of other, more « literary » novels. In short the Elegance of the hedgehog was taken apart line by line.

So why go over it all again? Because 2 070 000 copies later, it is without a doubt a bestseller but not just another bestseller. And that is the whole point. Because you really have to get in to this book. The first fifty pages do us no favours, as is evident from this passage a few lines in : «To understand Marx and understand why he is mistaken, one must read The German ideology. It is the anthropological cornerstone on which all of his exhortations for a new world are built and on which a sovereign certainty is established: mankind, doomed to its own ruin through desires would do better to stick to their own needs.» But don’t worry, once one gets past this, the book opens up like a poem.

However, the start must have put more than a few people off. But not 2 070 000 readers… So the conclusion is that a bestseller with writing this good is indeed the proof that everything is possible. The Elegance of the hedgehog is a declaration of love to the intellect it uncovers, to the readers it awakens and to the culture in which it trusts. Is that all? No.

The Elegance of the hedgehog has a spin-off effect. For example, this novel reinforces a certain attraction for Tolstoy through constant references. One finds oneself flicking through the work of the Russian author and following The elegance of the hedgehog with Anna Karenina if one hasn’t already read it. There follows the joy of not having missed the great classic and one thinks, maybe we should be talking about it too. In the meantime, we can thank Muriel Barbery for her audacity and her trust in our taste for words. What if that was the epitome of elegance?

Bianca Alberti
 
 
Métaphore

THE ART OF WAR

When a warrior meets statues. Down with the arms, down with the helmets. Emotion, meditation or salutation. A declaration of love, not death. By the Berthemy/Kemler duo.

 

foodoir
  • 01- Foodoir news

    photo © Odile Berthemy

IN VAIN

No more summer, no more rosé? Almost. Seeing as the last glasses of the season were polished off only last week. Like every year. We only get to drink rosé from May to October. And apart from a few exceptions standing at a bar or on a very special occasion, it doesn’t go much further than that.

It has to be said that rosé doesn’t necessarily have the same advantages as its red or white friends. As a wine, rosé is less complex. It is a leisure wine that doesn’t require any particular prior knowledge that is drunk at barbecues, picnics or « en terrasse » in warm weather. It is a wine that provides instant gratification but that we reserve for sunny days. The second handicap is that while it is not a complicated wine, rosé is often seen as seriously hangover-inducing. This reputation is due to the presence of sulphites in certain productions. And while today many rosés are totally natural, it can’t shake off the sore head pre-conception.

As a result, rosé has been pulling out all the stops to attract punters. It is prepared to undergo any transformation. For example, producers are changing their methods to create pale rosés which are perceived to be of better quality when in fact this perception is entirely psychological and no more than a mere trend. Another development is rosé served with tons of ice as a seriously fashionable « fontaine ». The actual taste is not an issue, rosé is even served with a grapefruit syrup, available ready-mixed in supermarkets. 

But all of these efforts are paying off. Over the past two years, rosé has taken off in the hipper VIP circles and clubs making champagne and stronger drinks almost obsolete. You can even get it in magnums in clubs.  

The problem is, rosé is becoming a drink. Not a wine, a drink. A refreshing one at that. Despite excellent cépages and crus, it still needs to get beyond that barrier. Rosé still has a few harsh winters ahead. 

M.V.

PROOF BY CASTLE

It has to be said, the writers of «Castle» are good. After last season’s finale left Kate hanging between life and death with a bullet-wound, she wakes up with amnesia as far as Castle is concerned!  So he thinks she has no recollection of him declaring his love when she was at death’s door… Every now and again he says «You really don’t remember anything?» baiting the impatient audience.

But seriously, what choice did they have? The show must go on, and so it does on France 2. You can’t possibly understand our girlie fixation if you haven’t seen every episode. «Castle» is a sort of anti- «CSI», the detective work happens in Castle’s imagination. He is a successful crime writer, she is a gifted cop. It is warm, human and glamorous, light years away from the high-tech, clinical shows we are used to.  France 2 are cleverly broadcasting only one new episode weekly on Mondays: last season, they beat TF1 in the ratings (up against «Une Famille formidable»), and the new season is going strong.

The irony is TF1 bought the series first and didn’t know where to schedule it so they passed it on to France 2. Nice one.

M.A.

 

L'Avenue
LA BOUTIQUE EN LIGNE DE L'ACHARNŒUR.
Pour en savoir plus sur les pièces uniques ou
en édition limitée, cliquez sur les différentes vitrines!

Opalis Paris

Since 2001, Opalis Paris has been making hair products that are light years away from the usual aggressive formulae foisted upon us by big industry. Their plant-based and silicon-free shampoos, creams, oils and lotions give off odours that would melt an ice-floe. Another point in their favour, there is no waiting period and they protect and repair our hair like nothing on earth. We’ve been fans for years, we swear by their products and we’re not alone; plenty of stars and women’s magazines have come out in their favour recently.

 

OPALIS SPECIAL OFFER, ONLY FOR L'ACHARNŒUR: 

A shampoo and conditioner... When you buy these two products, Opalis will give you a Booster hair treatment. This treatment, to be enjoyed in the Institut Opalis, has been specially developed to prepare your hair by removing all impurities. You will relax in the hands of an expert and learn the key gestures to optimise the application and benefits of each product. There is no date-limit on this hour-long treatment.

Limited edition offer. Price: 72€ taxes inclued

Institut Opalis - 63, rue de Ponthieu 75008 Paris. www.opalisparis.com

Caractéristiques produit

- The 150 ml shampoo. Options: for greasy hair with essential oils of thyme and rosemary, for dry hair with orange flower water, anti-dandruff with cade oil or for normal hair with Lavender essential oil. 
- The 200 ml conditioner with macadamia oil, wheat germ and sweet almond oil
- The Booster treatment, to be booked in the institute.
All informations : www.opalisparis.com

Lord SM - 180€

Lord SM was set up in 2009, and making luxury from vintage is something they know. It all began with the designer reworking morning suits to make them more « Rock Couture ». Slowly but surely she let her inspiration develop with scarves, bags, leather jackets, tunics, dresses… The terms « Union Jack » or « Mini Jack » are used for the scarves only she knows the secret to. Her « Ring of Fire » scarves are the stuff dreams are made of and we have a total crush on her fringed bags. Her pieces already have a cult following and her Spring/Summer 2013 collection was presented at Tranoï. The world is Lord SM’s oyster.

 

L’ACHARNŒUR CHOOSES

A Mini-Jack in vintage fabric and noble materials. Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet and leather all blended in a unique patchwork. The cut is the result of hours of work, stitching and imagination, which makes it adaptable to all shapes. The model is unisex and universal. 100% made in Paris, 100% Lord SM. New pieces available in the same shades.

 

One-off piece. Price: 180 € taxes inclued

Mini-Jack unisexe Lord SM.

Caractéristiques produit

- Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet, leather, cotton patchwork…
- 60x60 cm
- Folded in a triangle

Émilie Beaussart

Émilie Beaussart’s family have been shoe designers for two generations. And not just from father to daughter. So her passion for footwear came naturally. She first worked as a designer at Yves Saint-Laurent, before launching her own brand a year ago. Her designs are completely hand-made in a Parisian workshop using noble, supple materials to guarantee lightness but above all comfort. Her first collection includes modern designs that are both poetic and obsession-inducing, but always reflect a woman of character.

 

 

L’ACHARNŒUR CHOOSES

Among her limited edition models, we have chosen these ankle boots in calfskin and black patent leather. The arch is measured to keep up with the daily rush of the city dweller. The ankle strap is an original aesthetic touch that keeps the foot perfectly balanced. The curves of the boots and the patent leather are particularly feminine. The pompom and the contrast in materials, between matt and light, bring a note of classicism and mystery.

 

Limited edition, made to order. Price: 595€ taxes inclued

Other photos available on request

Caractéristiques produit

- Black calfskin with patent leather detail
- Leather soles and lining
-125 mm heel with 25 mm inner platform for more comfort
- Zip interior
- Completely hand-made in a workshop in Paris

Uni&Vintage -198€

Behind Uni&Vintage is the eye and imagination of one Christine Ekodo-Delaunay. So, what is her USP? She cuts up vintage clothes, scarves and fabrics, puts them together if needed with a specially dyed satin to help the fabrics blend and makes an entirely new piece. Skirts, shirts, trousers, tunics: the Uni&Vintage line proposes exclusive cuts that fall differently according to colours and prints. As a result, each design is unique and numbered as part of a broader collection.

 

 A UNI&VINTAGE DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

A vintage Lanvin headscarf, satin dyed in verdigris, a « kimono » cut, together form the skirt specially made for l’Acharnœur. The multitude of colours blend delicately as the bands superimpose with modernity. The inner belt is adaptable so the skirt falls perfectly on everyone regardless of size. The outer belt dresses the entire waist for an ultra-refined effect. This piece is number 1045 of the Uni&Vintage brand.

 

One-off piece. Price: 298€ taxes inclued

Uni&Vintage silk and satin skirt. Piece number 1045.

Caractéristiques produit

- Front and outer belt: vintage Lanvin headscarf 100 % silk 
- Back and inner bands: 66% satin and 33% cotton 
- Kimono belt
- Size 2

Gabriella de Galzain

She used to work under the name « Frénétik ». Today Gabriella de Galzain is coming out of hiding and is launching her eponymous brand. She makes baroque, romantic, rock n’ roll jewellery that expresses a bohemian spirit of elegance and freedom, paying homage to the most beautiful icons. Her undeniable talent can be seen in brooches, necklaces, earrings, cuff-links… She counts many stars among her greatest fans and some of her pieces tell the most beautiful stories.

 

A GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

We requested an homage to the Eiffel Tower. Gabriella de Galzain came up with this timeless yet contemporary brooch. The blend of off-whites means it can be worn at all times. Pearls, chains, crystals, ceramic flowers… The codes of elegance and femininity with an essential touch of impertinence. All the audacity of the “Grand Dame” herself.

 

Item made to order. Price: 145€ taxes inclued

 «La Parisienne» brooch

Caractéristiques produit

- Resin beading and icons
- Resin flowers, glass cabochon, crystal Swarovski rhinestones
- Base in silver-plated copper
- Silver-plated brass chains

Vanessa Deutsch

Hats, bandeaus, hair bands, caps... Vanessa Deutsch is a passionate hat designer who reinvents all types of head gear. Her credo: originality, practicality and elegance. Not to mention quality. Vanessa Deutsch’s has exacting standards in terms of materials, when she doesn’t make them herself, and she still does some of the stitching. Her true skills reveal unexpected collections that can dress even the most resistant heads! Hats off!

 

A LIMITED EDITION VANESSA DEUTSCH DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

Among her greatest hits: the Jane hair band. Two leaves, one on the left, one on the right, that are placed naturally on our head to light up our hair with Swarovski glitter powder. Reminiscent of a princess crown or angel wings, this hair-band is now available exclusively for l’Acharnœur in bronze-green.

Limited edition of 15 items. Price: 60€  taxes inclued

 

Jane model in bronze-green.

Caractéristiques produit

- Reworked lace wings with a sprinkle of Swarovski glitter powder.
- Steel hair band covered in black polyester. Thickness: 4 mm
- One size

corruption
Ils nous ont demandé d'en parler.
Comme on a aimé ce qu’ils proposaient, on l’a fait... À notre façon !
  • 0 - LCS

SEEING RED

The aim of Cosmétiques Design Paris is simple: offer high quality skincare and beauty products for prices that range from 1.20 Euros to 12 Euros. The 1.20 Euro product is shower gel, the 12 Euro product is an anti-ageing cream that contains 24 carat gold. And that’s it. So naturally, we were intrigued. We wondered how they managed to do what they were doing, and if it was working. And above all, we wondered if the products were any good.

To answer the first question we talked to Marie-Caroline Renault, head of marketing: « We decided not to have a brand ambassador, it saves a lot of money and enables us to invest more in the lab and have each range approved by an expert. » That makes sense. Now, to answer the product quality question, we played guinea pig ourselves and tried out a few items. A make-up remover that was presented at a dermatology conference, a flower-based shower gel, the cream with the gold and a lipstick… While the products are more or less on a par with the competition, given that the competition includes luxury brands, we do have a serious crush - especially on the lips.

Their lipstick shade 050 from the Pro’s Couture line is a pearl. For the first time ever, we seem to be pulling off THE red lip. THE movie-star red, THE seriously bright, ultra-feminine red we thought was the preserve of pretty pouters. It goes on easily, no need for a make-up artist, it doesn’t bleed and it lasts for hours… And, most of all, we don’t feel ridiculous. Feedback of course is positive, it goes without saying. And all for 7.50 Euros? Nothing to add.

Les Cosmétiques Design Paris are sold in exclusivity in Carrefour Shops and have 650 products. If there are other treasures like this one, then perhaps we should all take a closer look…

B.A.

 

www.lescosmetiquesdesignparis.com

• Where to find them ? Only at Carrefour : www.carrefour.fr/LD_magasins

 

 

Idylle

CHOCOLAT FACTORY

For once you can get a moustache while eating a lollipop! 


5,20 €. Available only from la Grande Épicerie de Paris for the Bon Marché’s 160th birthday. 38, rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris.

 
  • 01-Idylle
station

BRASSERIE MALAKOFF
Place du Trocadéro
Lines 6 and 9

Absorb the breathtaking view of the Tour Eiffel from Trocadero and then head back in search of a café. We are spoilt for choice but always end up at Brasserie Malakoff. A true Parisian brasserie that, for the neighbourhood, is reasonably priced. So it is already a find. But what really makes the difference is the service. We have tested everything, from the early morning coffee to the lunch rush to the closing-time drink, there is always a friendly smile, a rare commodity. Now that’s a delicacy !
6, place du Trocadéro et du 11 novembre 75116 Paris

  • 01-station
quotidien
  • 01-Quotichien

    Photo © Corbis

LITTLE BOXES

Ah, Paris. Its glorious architecture, slate rooftops, street lamps… But Paris is tiny, space is at a premium and we often have to make ourselves paper-thin to fit. 

Sometimes the reasons are merely practical. This is often the case for lifts that have been installed in tiny spaces that were never meant for the purpose. In order to provide inhabitants with the utmost comfort, the width of the stairs is narrowed and cleverly designed if slightly utopian cages are slid into the space. In theory, two people can fit in a space that is 80cm x 47 cm. The problem comes when they both have winter coats, bags of shopping, or even just handbags. Things turn into a game of Tetris, or even Twister. 

Very often, and naturally so, the reasons for the squash and squeeze are economic. You only need to go to a restaurant to understand the whole profit and loss aspect. One couple having a romantic meal on a pretty round Parisian bistro table is tight enough. But when they put a square plank on the next table to seat four people, things get very neighbourly. Strangely, it works, it must be that old Parisian magic.

A last example? Private car-parks. Some drivers don’t even try to get past, the corners are too tight. Or, three cars are expected to fit where there is really only room for two. There seems to be a tacit agreement between drivers to stagger their parking so they can get their doors open. The passengers just sit tight until the end of manoeuvres and the concrete pillars count the points.

Part of the Capital’s inherent charm? For our provincial or foreign friends, it’s more of a joke. A scene from a comedy with the Parisians as the actors or victims? Sardines for sure!

M.V.

 

 
junior_suite
Ce que les placards, les murs ou les tiroirs de notre chambre d'adolescent
racontent sur nous aujourd'hui.
  • 01-quotibien

    Photo © Marc Beaussart

FLUO RESCENT

I’ve lived through fluorescent at its best and its worst. I lived through the fluorescent trend of the eighties. The best because it was explosive, out of control, thrilling. The worst because when I look at the photos now I see myself in a bright orange swimsuit with flashy yellow earrings, all crowned with a fluorescent pink scarf on my head. A blinding cocktail. Totally out of control! I’d love to hide the photos away but can’t help smiling when I see them. Not just for their comic side, but for the carefree insouciance and transgression they evoke.

We may have been ridiculous, but we didn’t care. We put up with the mocking looks and incomprehension from around us but we didn’t care. It was the fashion, but quite a complicated fashion and far from widespread. But we didn’t care. We kept it up, we were on board. Our wardrobes overflowed, it was our little revolution. 

Obviously, it didn’t last forever, like everything, the backlash followed. In one felled swoop, wearing fluorescent clothes was a sign of immaturity. It was time to look grown-up, more serious, adult. So, we put it all away and replaced it with black.

But fluorescent is hard to forget. It is hard to leave aside. It tends to reappear, discreetly. When I need to get away. It remains a symbol of freedom for me. I don’t wear it in the same way: in small doses in clothes, a piece of jewellery, maybe a notebook. But all the time, to keep adulthood at bay. It represents a touch of acceptable madness, reminds me of what I am capable of.

But most of all, it puts me in a good mood. I don’t go «green with envy», «red with shame» or «white as a sheet». Just a few «luminous radiations», even the dictionary agrees… You can thank the eighties.

B.A.  From an interview with Sandrine R.

 

Collaborateurs

  • Directrice de la Publication et de la Rédaction
    Virginie Achard
  • Directrice Artistique
    Perrine Lebas
  • Concepteur web
    Franck Biehler
  • Chroniqueurs
    Maurice Achard, Bianca Alberti, Bruno Lancelot, Elido, Marie Veyrier, Stéphanie Norris
  • Traductrice
    Tresi Murphy

Invités

PHOTOGRAPHES EDITORIAL
Marc Beaussart
Odile Berthemy

PHOTOGRAPHES MÉTAPHORE
Mathieu Berthemy / Paul Kemler