edito

Issue number 28. Halloween on the one hand, All Saints Day on the other. Parties on one side, solemnity on the other. Paying homage to the dead and to death is always an act filled with ambivalence. Should we fear it? Avoid it? Face up to it? Ignore it? Should we bring back the dead or let them rest in peace? As is often the case, answers are to be found in profit. In fact, nothing is lost, everything is transformable. Next issue, November 13th.

truc_du_jour

none

  • 28- News qui court 01

    Quand le street art envahit également les cimetières… Photo insolite issue du livre "Urban Interventions" (éditions Gestalten)

respect
  • 28- Respect

    Lesson n°... © Alice Dardun

BOTTONS OF SEDUCTION

“Déshabillez-moi… Mais pas trop vite…” (Undress me… But not too quickly…) What a fabulous invitation!

Nothing is more sensual than a body that reveals itself slowly. Without going for complete nudity, we could even go as far as to say that nothing is as sensual as a body that suggests itself. Don’t worry, we are not going to pontificate on skirt lengths or necklines. Each to their own style and above all their own freedom. However, we do wish to get back to a sartorial detail that seems to be disappearing from our everyday lives when it is a promise of femininity, delicacy, and … seduction! We wish to get back to those little satin or velvet-covered buttons that were once found at the neck, on a shoulder… and that closed the garment while leaving the possibility of revealing a little skin, and the rest… 

Obviously, they are far from practical. In the morning when the race against time is the only one in town, a good zip is your best ally. Of course, they are part of a fashion that doesn’t signify a huge level of emancipation for women: clothes that, until the beginning of the 20th century, shut off the body, “corseting” it, hid it… Of course we do feel better in a good pair of jeans and a tee-shirt, not to mention that that can be really sexy too. But. The way clothes have evolved, looking sexy is no longer an issue today. You can be relaxed, rock n’ roll, working girl, classic… But can you be mysterious? Impenetrable? And, as a result, deliciously captivating?

Try the addition of a real touch of refinement. Because these perfectly aligned little buttons denote a perfection that goes beyond simple elegance. With a fragile side, as these buttons practically require another vocabulary. Women seem frail. We swoon, we go into raptures… A novel in itself! With a little provocative side. Especially when one or two buttons are left open leaving just enough visible to make it desirable. Hypnotising. 

Not to mention that it takes great patience, dexterity, delicacy to open these buttons… An invitation that gives ready-to-wear a touch of ready-to-eat. 

Bianca Alberti

 

beurk
  • 28- Beurk

    Edith Piaf in hologram. 

UPHEAVAL AMONG THE DEAD

Obviously, the initial reaction was akin to an emotional tsunami.  When Natalie Cole released, in 1991, her version of the mythical “Unforgettable” as a virtual duet with her father, the great Nat King Cole, few were those who managed to hold back the tears. And with good reason. Then, in December 1995, the radio station Europe 2 flooded the airwaves with fake duets fabricated by the station itself, between artists such as Prince and Native, it was as if time stood still. Such excitement, waiting patiently beside the radio to “catch” tunes that remain magical as they were never released. Finally, when Charles Aznavour covered “Plus bleu que tes yeux” in ‘97, artificially mixing his voice with that of Edith Piaf, we thought, why not: after all, he was her secretary and confidant. And, above all, he did write the song. The problem is, these virtual duets have since spread like wildfire and recently they have started making us feel a little uncomfortable…

Elvis Presley’s voice, mixed with that of his daughter, Bob Marley’s with his daughter-in-law’s Lauryn Hill, Henri Salvador’s or Frank Sinatra’s with Céline Dion’s, etc. etc… Whatever the connection, whatever the reasons, regardless of the result. What is upsetting is the involvement of a dead person. Someone who is no longer in a position to agree or disagree. Someone who can’t intervene and finds themselves on a cover version of which they may not have approved. Even in situations where the rights holders agree to the recording, or are even behind the project, like Hélène Segara’s latest album “with” Joe Dassin that was instigated by his own sons. If the “heirs” are on board, then it’s alright? It’s almost worse. There is something obscene in permitting oneself to use the deceased with the authorisation of the heirs. Having said that, we shouldn’t worry, Hélène Segara claimed in a recent interview that when one covers another artist, it’s “really important to get the opinion of the person involved”. So Joe Dassin gave his approval from beyond the grave? The rest of us would love to know how she managed to hear him…

Marie Veyrier

billard

STAY AWAKE!

During a recent promotional trip to Paris for her book “Envie de vérité”, Cécilia Attias, Nicolas Sarkozy’s ex-wife claimed that France was “switching off, going to sleep”, when talking about a socio-economic situation that goes back many years. The previous day a big daily paper ran the headline: “Paris s’endort” (Paris is falling asleep) about something else altogether, the 9 p.m. limit on closing times for supermarkets and small grocery shops.

So the country of the Enlightenment and the City of Lights find themselves suddenly in the dark through the metaphorical effect of the same words, making it essential to clear things up.
Where are we going? Where are our benchmarks?
Lights please!
So everyone is searching for a new perspective for a possible light source. In teaching, most notably. For example the re-publishing of old-style reading manuals is all the rage. And a school in Perpignan now begins with a dictation every morning.

The true is that culture is attracted to another source of light these days, the new screens. Even Bret Easton Ellis, the literary wunderkind of the eighties and nineties, has declared that the novel is dead and is tweeting as though his life depended on it…
Light?
It hasn’t gone out, it has just changed direction.

Maurice Achard

 

floraison
Un livre, un film, une musique... quelques années, décennies ou siècles plus tard.
Quand la culture n’en finit pas de fleurir.
  • 28- Floraison

    "La Parenthèse", Révélation Award at Angoulème Festival 2011

PERFECT PARENTHESIS

A parenthesis like this changes a person, but it also makes them stronger. The parenthesis we are talking about is not grammatical but a cartoon by Elodie Durand entitled “La Parenthèse”, that tells the story of her battle against an illness that hit her when she was in her early twenties. Her narrative is the opposite of a tear-jerker, it is more of a life-affirming anthem, one that makes us want to spray-paint it on walls. But that is not the most surprising aspect. From one drawing to the next, we are slowly immersed in her story as if it were a thriller. 

Durand’s incredible strength is the breath of fresh air she brings to a narrative about cancer and epilepsy. Released in 2010, the black and white cartoon strip, both realist or figurative, tells of the heroines feelings faced with such a daily struggle with intensity and suspense: forgetting her alphabet in the middle of her final dissertation; forgetting herself, and still denying the illness; becoming dependant on her family at an age when one dreams of freedom and the wide open spaces… Is she going to make it? The question isn’t dealt with in a lugubrious or medical way, but as if it was part of a plot co-written by John Grisham and Franz Kafka.

There is a poignant detail, the writer gifts us with a selection of drawings she did at the time: devoid of any superfluous lines, formidably expressive and just as good as any words, they describe her impression of being locked in her own body, but also of her dreams and her emotions. It frees us from all the taboos attached to the ill.

In short, a particularly well put together book that approaches a plague that is omnipresent in our society today and that makes everyone feel uneasy. Once you have turned the last page, all you remember are the twists and turns of life and the beauty of the drawing. Now that feels good!

Chloé Danglard

 

Métaphore

THE KALEIDOSCOPE

A glimpse of a shoulder, the corner of a smile, a curve… Irina Fondain is in love with these details that make us unique. She sublimates them and renders them so haunting through her kaleidoscope. Photos created without photoshop.

foodoir
  • 28- Foodoir

    Source internet

I’LL EAT ON YOUR GRAVES

The more we try to remove death from our lives, the more it reappears as gadgets or decorative objects: the recent upsurge in the fashion for skulls on prints, embroideries, buttons and jewellery is unprecedented… A way of keeping the grim reaper at bay? For Mexicans the opposite is true, death is a companion that never scares them, they feast with it and eat on gravestones on All-Saints day. For them, the Day of the Dead, “Dia de los muertos”, a blend of Aztec tradition and Spanish religious practice, is a two-day festival on November 1st and 2nd.

Under Moctezuma, the last of the Aztec emperors, visiting graves took place at regular intervals throughout the year to appease the souls that travelled the earth. When the Spanish arrived, this practice was officialised as an offering in cemeteries where bread, wine and flowers were brought at All-Saints. This led to a very ritualised ceremony: November 1st is dedicated to the «Angelitos», children who have left the world of the living (and that are at times symbolised by colourful coffin-shaped sweets), while November 2nd is reserved for adults with a meal followed by sweets and cake.

Huge picnics take place in the cemeteries: the graves are cleaned and decorated with flowers and candles so that the celebrations are far from macabre; they are joyful in fact with singing and dancing washed down with tequila. A special “bread of the dead” is made for the occasion. As for the sweets, most are made from marzipan (raw or cooked almond paste, according to recipes), that are more original and diverse than the “huesos de santos”, the saints’ bones from the Toledo region in Spain, filled with yellow cream as the marrow!
But the most popular sweets are the “cavaleras”, little skulls made from coloured sugar – as sugar is the miracle ingredient that softens the bitterness of grief. Amusing consolations to finally bring the dead back to life!

Elido
 

GIVE OR TAKE A FEW BILLION…

Given the general level of incomprehension regarding the economy and the extravagant nature of the figures involved that are beyond our ken, can we, should we, be surprised that even on the evening news, there is confusion between millions and billions?
The other evening, David Pujadas had to make a public apology for having stated the previous night that PSA Peugeot-Citroën’s turnover for 2012 was 55 million instead of 55 billion. Huge, from such a reputable presenter.

But who, on the spot, “self-corrected” the error, according to the dedicated formula. Apart from the 10% of French people who are aware of the real figures, the “initiated”, those who listen to BFM Business…
The real pity is that the media didn’t take advantage of the economic crisis when it kicked off in 2008 to inaugurate other ways of dealing with this type of news story that is usually so difficult to translate journalistically.
A daily double page, for example, in the written press, with the same lexicon republished each day listing essential terminology such as CAC 40 (the French stock listings), inflation or, in this case… turnover, with the addition of two or three educational articles, even “dumbed down” to throw some light on the current upheaval.

But no-one rose to the occasion and the never-ending trail of illegible, boring, vague articles continues.
In the meantime, however, the world is changing faster than you can add on a calculator and the economy is ruling over our disarray. Close to… depression. A word that could also feature in the lexicon…

M.A.
 
L'Avenue
LA BOUTIQUE EN LIGNE DE L'ACHARNŒUR.
Pour en savoir plus sur les pièces uniques ou
en édition limitée, cliquez sur les différentes vitrines!

Let It Be - 63€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

 

THE LET IT BE SELECTION
FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from soft leather and white metal, it is both chic and gothic, ultra-precious and rock and roll. The clasp dresses the wrist with a refinement and originality that attracts all women, regardless of their age or style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur and also available without the skull.

 

Price: 63€ with skull.
58€ without skull.

Without skull item or with a bow also avalaible.

Caractéristiques produit

- Leather bracelet
- Bracelet chain in plate silver
- Skull clasp in stainless Zamac 
- Sizes available: 32cm, 34 or 36cm (made-to-measure on request)

Let It Be Men - 54€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

 

THE LET IT BE SELECTION
FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from leather and white magnetic metal, it is both male and chic, elegant and rock and roll. Perfect alliance between sobriety and confirmed style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur.

 

Price: 54€ 

Caractéristiques produit

- Leather bracelet with "piqûre selleir"
- Magnetic clasp in silvered Zamac 
- Sizes available: 20cm or 22cm (made-to-measure on request)

Aline Lang - 80€

Aline Lang is a photographer and graphic artist who one day, for fun, drew a bracelet watch like a piece of film. A designer at Cartier, Omega, liked it and oriented her into watch face design. Her first watch was for the bicentenary of the French revolution. Since then she has designed over forty watches, including one for the Bibliothèque nationale. Her rare and unusual creations are born from her inspiration and are produced as limited editions.

 

THE ACHARNŒUR’S SELECTION

 

The Gallops watch. An homage to chronophotography (the decomposition of a movement by a succession of photographs) and to Muybridge’s work that in 1878, proved that the four legs of a horse leave the ground at the same time when the horse gallops. This watch was first made by a big luxury house before being edited by the Musée d’Orsay. Its leather bracelet and particularly flat face makes this version timeless.

 

Limited edition. 10 pieces available.
Price: 80 €.

Gallops Watch

Caractéristiques produit

- Case in chromed brass
- Black leather bracelet 
- Quartz movement
- Made in France, Alsace.

190€ au lieu de 298€

UNI&VINTAGE

 

Behind Uni&Vintage is the eye and imagination of one Christine Ekodo-Delaunay. So, what is her USP? She cuts up vintage clothes, scarves and fabrics, puts them together if needed with a specially dyed satin to help the fabrics blend and makes an entirely new piece. Skirts, shirts, trousers, tunics: the Uni&Vintage line proposes exclusive cuts that fall differently according to colours and prints. As a result, each design is unique and numbered as part of a broader collection.

 

 

A UNI&VINTAGE DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

A vintage Lanvin headscarf, satin dyed in verdigris, a « kimono » cut, together form the skirt specially made for l’Acharnœur. The multitude of colours blend delicately as the bands superimpose with modernity. The inner belt is adaptable so the skirt falls perfectly on everyone regardless of size. The outer belt dresses the entire waist for an ultra-refined effect. This piece is number 1045 of the Uni&Vintage brand.

 

One-off piece. 
Price: 180€ instead of 298€ taxes inclued

Uni&Vintage silk and satin skirt. Piece number 1045.

Caractéristiques produit

- Front and outer belt: vintage Lanvin headscarf 100 % silk 
- Back and inner bands: 66% satin and 33% cotton 
- Kimono belt
- Size 2

120€ au lieu de 180€

LORD SM

 

Lord SM was set up in 2009, and making luxury from vintage is something they know. It all began with the designer reworking morning suits to make them more « Rock Couture ». Slowly but surely she let her inspiration develop with scarves, bags, leather jackets, tunics, dresses… The terms « Union Jack » or « Mini Jack » are used for the scarves only she knows the secret to. Her « Ring of Fire » scarves are the stuff dreams are made of and we have a total crush on her fringed bags. Her pieces already have a cult following and her Spring/Summer 2013 collection was presented at Tranoï. The world is Lord SM’s oyster.

 

 

 

L’ACHARNŒUR CHOOSES

 

A Mini-Jack in vintage fabric and noble materials. Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet and leather all blended in a unique patchwork. The cut is the result of hours of work, stitching and imagination, which makes it adaptable to all shapes. The model is unisex and universal. 100% made in Paris, 100% Lord SM. New pieces available in the same shades.

 

One-off piece. 
Price: 120€ instead of 180 € taxes inclued

Mini-Jack unisexe Lord SM.

Caractéristiques produit

- Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet, leather, cotton patchwork…
- 60x60 cm
- Folded in a triangle

Gabriella de Galzain - 125€

She used to work under the name «Frénétik». Today Gabriella de Galzain is coming out of hiding and is launching her eponymous brand. She makes baroque, romantic, rock n’ roll jewellery that expresses a bohemian spirit of elegance and freedom, paying homage to the most beautiful icons. Her undeniable talent can be seen in brooches, necklaces, earrings, cuff-links… She counts many stars among her greatest fans and some of her pieces tell the most beautiful stories. 

 

A GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

We requested an homage to the Eiffel Tower. Only for l'Acharnœur, Gabriella de Galzain came up with this timeless yet contemporary brooch. The blend of off-whites means it can be worn at all times. Pearls, chains, crystals, ceramic flowers… The codes of elegance and femininity with an essential touch of impertinence. All the audacity of the “Grand Dame” herself.


Item made to order. 
Special price: 125€ taxes inclued

«La Parisienne» brooch

Caractéristiques produit

- Resin beading and icons
- Resin flowers, glass cabochon, crystal Swarovski rhinestones
- Base in silver-plated copper
- Silver-plated brass chains
- Icon high : 10cm
- Total high (with chains) : 24 cm 

Idylle

MACON ET LESQUOY BROOCH

Some cute embroidery on this skeleton-shaped brooch.  The limbs all move and it brings life to jackets, hats and other garments for both men and women. We’re up for a skeleton that makes us smile!

40€. On sale on maconetlesquoy.com

station

FLOWER SHOP - PARIS
Metro Place d'Italie
Line 5,6 ou 7

So you feel like something other than the traditional Chrysanthemums at All-Saints? Give “Art et Végétal” a visit, a florist whose bouquets are inventive, original and elegant… and affordable! Run by Jacques Castagné, winner of “France’s best worker”, the boutique is a veritable garden. It is filled with many rare and traditional varieties for creating all kinds of floral compositions and sculptures, even the most eccentric. For those of you who don’t live in Paris “Art et Végétal” delivers in certain cities around France. A blooming good idea!

Art et Végétal
192, rue Tolbiac 75013 Paris
art-vegetal-fleuriste.fr

  • 28- Station
quotidien
  • 28- Quotichien

    "Please pick up your package at number 3 on the 3rd floor. Thanks" Source Internet

READY, STEADY, GO!

It can be amusing to realise how notions of time or space can still be rather relative. As an experiment, nothing beats a Chronopost package!
In theory, a letter inside France arrives the next day before 1 pm (on condition that it is not posted too late the evening before, or on a Saturday, or coming up to a bank holiday). And a letter sent from or to another country takes about four working days to arrive. Sometimes this is exact. Sometimes. Anyone feel like a game of “Catch me if you can”? 

There is the classic version where the package just doesn’t get there on time. You stayed home all morning? Pity, start over tomorrow. Even plan for day three! Delivery within 24 hours must not mean “in one block” but “working hours”.
Annoying ? Not as much as the time you left the house after 1 pm, checked the post and found… a “Could not deliver” notification in your post-box! The “Chronopost” delivery person did come by but didn’t get as far as ringing your bell. 
Infuriating? Not as bad as having to pick up your package… from a neighbour you don’t know. Or that you know but wish you didn’t. Whew!
Irritating ? Not as bad as the time when, after losing all hope – even a notification -, you checked tracking on the internet. And, surprise, surprise. Not only was a delivery attempt made, but now your parcel awaits you at the post office. Except, of course when you go to collect, your parcel is not there. It’s in another post office, or worse, in a sorting centre in a neighbouring town… When you ask if it can be transferred, the postal worker looks a little guilty and says “it would be better to go in person, it’s much safer”.
Disconcerting ? Nothing like the time your package stayed in the sorting centre for 24 hours without ever venturing near your house before being returned to the sender… abroad. Not exotic enough otherwise. In theory, you have ten days to pick it up…

And despite all of this, Chronopost won the “E-commerce Award 201” for its interactive delivery. Surely some mistake? The virtual delivery award more like. 

M.V.

Ndlr : a range of real-life accounts of deliveries to be handed over in person.

 

junior_suite
Ce que les placards, les murs ou les tiroirs de notre chambre d'adolescent
racontent sur nous aujourd'hui.
  • 28- Junior Suite

    Father Futurback behind the "Amsterdam Invasion" exhibition's window

DELIRI-ROOM

I have always been attracted to the bizarre. At the age of six, I built a little museum in my room that I called “Baheiro”, a word I totally made up. In it I displayed all sorts of Egyptian objects like little replicas of sarcophagi or postcards I bought in museums with skulls on them. 

But in fact, I spent most of my time drawing. Between the ages of six and seven, my friends and I would draw pictures with violent tendencies, like a person in a wheelchair rolling towards the edge of a cliff… strange ideas for our age but we thought it was fun. I was always drawn to death and crime… But don't let all that death stuff fool you: I was and am a very happy boy!
When I got older, I spent hours making mix-tapes and reading… Everything from Mad Magazine to novels and stories about witches and demons. I haven’t really changed since. In fact, at the moment I am mixing for a weekly show on Red Light Radio, behind a former prostitute’s window. Killer! 

My parents took me to museums regularly when I was young and this influenced me enormously. The “Der Blaue Reiter” movement was a revelation for me. I like drawing black and white landscapes that take hours and hours and force me to be meticulous so that there are no drips on the paper. I like the precision of drawing in ink. You can add details that some people will never see. And when they do see them, they are intrigued. 

My whole day can be an inspiration to me. Waking up, going to the gym, to the supermarket, meeting people buying stuff, etc. All of this can end up in my drawings in one way or another. My work is a real blend of the precise and the crazy, filled with all the ideas that run through my mind… but which are perfectly ordered. 

Today I do mostly tattoo design, ink drawings, album covers and photo collage… I also have exhibitions… Letting your crazy side run free works!

Bruno Lancelot

• Father Futurback on show in Paris!
Amsterdam Invasion by Sizzer
At Superette Production, 104, rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, Paris
Exhibition until November 10th, open Monday to Friday between 14:00 and 18:00

• To see and read more : fatherfutureback.com

 

Collaborateurs

  • Directrice de la Publication et de la Rédaction
    Virginie Achard
  • Directrice Artistique
    Perrine Lebas
  • Concepteur web
    Franck Biehler
  • Chroniqueurs
    Maurice Achard, Bianca Alberti, Bruno Lancelot, Elido, Marie Veyrier, Stéphanie Norris
  • Traductrice
    Tresi Murphy

Invités

PHOTOGRAPHE METAPHORE
Irina Fondain

PHOTOGRAPHES ÉDITORIAL
Alice Dardun, Odile Berthemy

CHRONIQUEUR
Chloé Danglard