edito

Issue number 29. It is often said that “You choose your friends, not your family”. But on what criteria? Complicity, character, trust? Trust… When it weathers small storms, it strengthens ties. It is hard to imagine human relations without it… But it might be an idea to prepare for the eventuality. The crisis is going strong! Next issue out on November 27th.

truc_du_jour

no

  • 29- News qui court

    On en a fini avec les citrouilles d'Halloween? Vive le potiron de la Sarthe ! Issu de l'agriculture biologique (et non pas bionique contrairement aux apparences), ce potiron vient de remporter le record de France du plus gros specimen avec ses 646,5kg! Sacré stock pour faire des soupes…

respect
  • 29- Respect

    Dessin © Paul Iribe. "Les Munitionnettes", ouvrières des usines d'armement. 

THE NEGLECTED HEROS

November is here with its mud and tears of rain. The horrible weather we’ve been dreading, the dank, greyness before the lights of December. And as if on cue, November 7th saw the inauguration of a travelling exhibition entitled “De Boue et de larmes…” (Of mud and tears…), announcing the start of the First World War commemorations. Throughout 2014 a number of ceremonies and events will take place. And while some speeches are approaching saturation point already, this resurrection of a muddy but brave past may light up our shaky, uncertain future… 

A century after the outbreak of what was then referred to as the Great War, as the sheer size was overwhelming, the memory remains of course of a certain grandeur in the bravery of the soldiers but above all in their values of fraternity and solidarity, in the middle of a gigantic, apocalyptic disaster. 

While books published on the subject take care to highlight the sacrifice and discipline of the soldiers sent to the slaughter, few heroes stand out, there is a shortage of quotable names. This is for a good reason: The entire population was heroic. The entire population took part in the battle and merits homage. The role of women and children was just as important in the defence of the country. Women, for once, were treated as men in René Viviani’s call “Aux Femmes françaises” on August 7th 1914, which incited the entire country to participate in the war effort. “I am calling on your valiant nature, on that of children who are not in battle due to their age alone and not their courage. I ask that you keep the country working […] Stand then, French women and children… Replace those who are in the battle fields in the field of work”… There is no small job, “everything that serves the country is great.”
Of course, the patriotic exaltation reinforced commitment from all. “Tomorrow there will be glory for all”. The concept is broad. Today, this commitment has disappeared, there is no coming together, only the hunt for individual glory by the powerful. Making us feel like turning to our elders in search of meaning, even conscience…

Bruno Lancelot

 

beurk
  • 29- Beurk

    Publicité pour Marithé + François Girbaud reprenant la Cène (détail).

THE RIGHT TO LIE

We can no longer ignore it. On the one hand there are websites specialising in extra-marital affairs, on the other, websites that provide fake alibis. Their UPS (Unique Selling Point): lies.

In a sense, one can’t work without the other. But contrary to what one might think, these agencies are not aimed at adulterers only. They claim otherwise: they are there to save you from all embarrassing personal situations, from cancelling a vacation with Aunt Suzanne to a simple missed meeting.

While some commit merely to helping you invent a story, other more unscrupulous sites go as far as to providing fake documents. Anything is possible: invitations, restaurant bills, parking tickets, not to mention invitations to fake seminars, virtual plane tickets, or worse, phone and bank records carefully retouched by experienced graphic artists…

Borderline legal ? While this type of practice appears dodgy, the companies stay inside the law with their strict conditions of use: the clients must certify that the documents required are for personal use only.

Perfect! So no worries then. If the basic principle is that the French are perfectly disciplined in general and will only use these fakes for personal use, then there is no risk? When they are filed away to make the lie even more real, is it not possible that they resurface a few years later and create truly serious problems?

But this is not the most abject part. That this type of activity actually exists tells us much about what we are capable of and the future of human relations. Blithely paying to fool someone else… Or using them to sort out one’s little affairs! There are smartphone applications that enable you to simulate a call from one of your contacts without then knowing. Which means using one’s family and friends without their knowledge, broadening the circle of betrayal. 

“Faux et usage de faux” (Faking and using counterfeit means) no longer means just paper. Now it covers people too. Soon at the table, you will be asked who lied or if you were used in a lie. It is only right that “Judas” is written with an “s”.

Chloé Danglard

 

billard

THE OLD AVANT-GARDE

71 years old.
With the death of Lou Reed, the memory of a certain New York avant-garde has been resurrected and feted. First of all, his band the Velvet Underground that came to be in the middle of the sixties. Extreme, dark rock n’ roll, gigs that doubled as artistic happenings, provocation, alcohol, drugs, with Andy Warhol in tow. 

Avant-garde… In the days that followed his death, the term popped up strangely, in the homages to Edith Piaf and Jean Cocteau on the fifty year anniversaries of their respective deaths. All of a sudden, the “avant-garde” was everywhere.
Piaf? Wasn’t she the first to invent the concept of “celebrity” in France by controlling the rumour mill around herself, confirming the true ones, feeding the false? Didn’t she put together the first ever “press release” by providing the stunned New York Times with a full press package before her first trip stateside?
Cocteau? The multimedia artist par excellence, ahead of his time... Dubbed a jack-of-all-trades by those who didn’t like him, was he not writer-poet-playwright-artist-filmmaker all rolled into one? 
Luis Mariano was just as avant-garde by in the way he opened up opera to songs such as “Besame mucho” or “Volare”. This is according to Vincent Niclo who has dedicated an entire CD to him.

Lou Reed was the same age as Paul McCartney who has just brought out a new album filled with the trademark melodies we know so well.
The Beatles were never considered avant-garde, apart from a few exhibitions by John Lennon and Yoko Ono. Maybe that’s because the avant-garde of yesteryear is behind us, while “Yesterday” is still very much with us.

Maurice Achard

 

floraison
Un livre, un film, une musique... quelques années, décennies ou siècles plus tard.
Quand la culture n’en finit pas de fleurir.
  • 29- Floraison

    Christophe Malavoy et François Cluzet

A LESSON IN HUMOUR!

This is in fact the story of a lie… Or, to be more exact, the damage caused by a lie. However, this one is supposed to be a joke, set up by three friends to make fun of a third. It was only meant to take a few minutes. Except nothing went as planned. Against all odds the three friends never get a chance to tell the fourth the truth and he ends up in a bad situation. 

Things go from bad to worse. The perpetrators find themselves the butt of another joke. The story goes takes unexpected but never boring twists and turns up until the final denouement that manages to surprise, making the film a very good surprise indeed.

Thankfully, it is also the story of friendship. One that at first seems to be built on the past and based on appearances, jibes and competition. But from one trial to the next the relationship manages to resist doubt, lies, fears, sadness… This is a friendship worth risking your life for. One that can only exist if you have complete faith in the other person. One where the word “trust” is an absolute. Finally, it is a love story. Slipped in between all of these plot lines, it must also deal with one’s lack of self-assurance, the other’s tendency to conceal… 

So it’s a story where all human relations are severely tested. An incredibly strong film, well directed by Claude Zidi with actors that include Christophe Malavoy – and his hilarious moustache  or the ever impeccable François Cluzet. 
All with a touch of political incorrectness that makes us want to speed and spend. A formidable feeling in these austere times. 

Released in 1987 the film’s style is naturally a little dated. But just like “Banzai” or “Les Ripoux”, both by Claude Zidi it still entertains. So even though it might be hard to find, don’t waste any time in checking it out. The film? “Association de malfaiteurs”. The best!

Bianca Alberti

• Discover the characters and the strange friendship at the beginning

 

Métaphore

FACADES

Nothing but a facade… Not very inspiring. It even engenders suspicion. Nevertheless, when it’s the only thing that remains in our streets, it is a soul that lives on or a story to be told. This series by Zacharie Gaudrillot-Roy bears witness to this. Does just a facade mean authenticity or falsity? We’ll let you be the judge.

foodoir
  • 29- Foodoir

    Photo © Odile Berthemy

CHESTNUTS ROASTING…

Whether you get a “châtaigne” (chestnut) or a “marron” (horse chestnut/conkers) in a fight, the punch in the face is the same either way. But eating a chestnut or a conker, the taste will not be the same, neither will the effect!

The confusion is common between these two trees that are not even the same family. How to tell the difference? How is it possible to recognise grilled chestnuts in the winter when all you hear in the streets is “chaud, les marrons chauds” (get your hot conkers here) – a call to the warmth of the street braseros and their enticing odours. Or how are you supposed to tell the difference when “crème de marrons” (chestnut cream), “dinde aux marrons” (chestnut stuffing) or marrons glacés (glazed chestnuts) are, in fact chestnuts (the confusion doesn’t arise in English)! Even though, it is a good idea as the marron d’Inde (Indian horse chestnut) is inedible, even toxic.

But don’t worry, the differences are visible, if only in the colour nuances: the chestnut is a little lighter in colour than the conker, and even more acajou. The shape is different too, the conker is bigger and rounder while the chestnut is flatter on the side and vaguely triangular. The easiest way to tell the difference is to examine the wrapping. The capsule around the chestnut is covered in long, thin, tight spikes like a sea urchin, while the one around the conker is pale green with soft, spread out spikes. 

Edible conkers can be found on specially grafted trees. But these are different from Indian horse chestnut trees that are frequent in cities as they are robust and the fruit is gathered for fun … or to make castanets! (the word castanets comes from the Latin term for the chestnut tree, castanea sativa, thanks to the two little chestnuts used to click the rhythm of the dance…)

It matters little, chestnut/horse chestnut, the fruit is inextricably linked to the end-of-year holidays. And for over 150 years in Lyon in the Croix Rousse neighbourhood the “Vogue aux marrons” during the month of November brings together many fairground people.
A piece of advice nonetheless: take chestnuts from the fire with cat’s paws!

Elido

 

  • 29- Ecran

    Claude Verlont et Ghislaine Dupont, de Rfi, assassinés au Mali.

TO THOSE WHO BEAR WITNESS TO HELL

How should we display our grief?
By lowering our voice for a minute?
Yes, of course, but no.
How are we to be silent, 
to stop talking, stop bearing witness,
stop writing, stop telling,
stop filming, stop showing,
even one minute’s silence,
when the news doesn’t wait, goes so fast,
is so bad,
to the point that it announces the death of those who report it,  
risking their lives, 
with full knowledge, 
but caught up in the action due to their own bravery.
A category of journalists a cut above the rest,
They are the war correspondents,
the “grands reporters”,
the “grands”.

Maurice Achard

 

L'Avenue
LA BOUTIQUE EN LIGNE DE L'ACHARNŒUR.
Pour en savoir plus sur les pièces uniques ou
en édition limitée, cliquez sur les différentes vitrines!

Let It Be Men - 54€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

 

THE LET IT BE SELECTION
FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from leather and white magnetic metal, it is both male and chic, elegant and rock and roll. Perfect alliance between sobriety and confirmed style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur.

 

Price: 54€ 

Caractéristiques produit

- Leather bracelet with "piqûre selleir"
- Magnetic clasp in silvered Zamac 
- Sizes available: 20cm or 22cm (made-to-measure on request)

Let It Be - 63€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

 

THE LET IT BE SELECTION
FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from soft leather and white metal, it is both chic and gothic, ultra-precious and rock and roll. The clasp dresses the wrist with a refinement and originality that attracts all women, regardless of their age or style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur and also available without the skull.

 

Price: 63€ with skull.
58€ without skull.

Without skull item or with a bow also avalaible.

Caractéristiques produit

- Leather bracelet
- Bracelet chain in plate silver
- Skull clasp in stainless Zamac 
- Sizes available: 32cm, 34 or 36cm (made-to-measure on request)

Cyrto

Cyrto is extremely shy and prefers the shadows to the light. She is an illustrator and graphic artist and is spending more and more time on her true calling: creating fantastic worlds from her own emotion, impulse and imagination. She invents but does not reinvent. She follows no trend or influence but instead takes all her inspiration from her inner self. Her uniquely artistic approach will soon be visible through her writing and directing.

 

CYRTO GLOVES

 

The whole idea comes from the glove as second skin. Cyrto creates indelible designs on gloves evoking ramifications, sketches… connections. Each piece is unique and comes only from her imagination. There are no rules, no hierarchy, the cells form every instant and grow together through paths and encounters. Her lines tell of a fantastic world that is almost invisible to the naked eye. Between tattoo art and a pseudo-botanic vision, the lines of the hand take on a new meaning.

 

Gloves made to order. 

 

The approach is entirely artistic. The final piece is handed over in exchange for an envelope in which the client « gives » the amount they wish.

 

The Acharnœur will act as intermediary but takes no commission. For more information: avenue@acharnoeur.com

Illustration from Cyrto Art.

Caractéristiques produit

- Light-coloured gloves supplied by the client
- Unique drawings done in indelible ink 
- Time required: two weeks
- Price of piece fixed by the client
- Delivery costs extra (6€ minimum for France)

190€ au lieu de 298€

UNI&VINTAGE

 

Behind Uni&Vintage is the eye and imagination of one Christine Ekodo-Delaunay. So, what is her USP? She cuts up vintage clothes, scarves and fabrics, puts them together if needed with a specially dyed satin to help the fabrics blend and makes an entirely new piece. Skirts, shirts, trousers, tunics: the Uni&Vintage line proposes exclusive cuts that fall differently according to colours and prints. As a result, each design is unique and numbered as part of a broader collection.

 

 

A UNI&VINTAGE DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

A vintage Lanvin headscarf, satin dyed in verdigris, a « kimono » cut, together form the skirt specially made for l’Acharnœur. The multitude of colours blend delicately as the bands superimpose with modernity. The inner belt is adaptable so the skirt falls perfectly on everyone regardless of size. The outer belt dresses the entire waist for an ultra-refined effect. This piece is number 1045 of the Uni&Vintage brand.

 

One-off piece. 
Price: 180€ instead of 298€ taxes inclued

Uni&Vintage silk and satin skirt. Piece number 1045.

Caractéristiques produit

- Front and outer belt: vintage Lanvin headscarf 100 % silk 
- Back and inner bands: 66% satin and 33% cotton 
- Kimono belt
- Size 2

120€ au lieu de 180€

LORD SM

 

Lord SM was set up in 2009, and making luxury from vintage is something they know. It all began with the designer reworking morning suits to make them more « Rock Couture ». Slowly but surely she let her inspiration develop with scarves, bags, leather jackets, tunics, dresses… The terms « Union Jack » or « Mini Jack » are used for the scarves only she knows the secret to. Her « Ring of Fire » scarves are the stuff dreams are made of and we have a total crush on her fringed bags. Her pieces already have a cult following and her Spring/Summer 2013 collection was presented at Tranoï. The world is Lord SM’s oyster.

 

 

 

L’ACHARNŒUR CHOOSES

 

A Mini-Jack in vintage fabric and noble materials. Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet and leather all blended in a unique patchwork. The cut is the result of hours of work, stitching and imagination, which makes it adaptable to all shapes. The model is unisex and universal. 100% made in Paris, 100% Lord SM. New pieces available in the same shades.

 

One-off piece. 
Price: 120€ instead of 180 € taxes inclued

Mini-Jack unisexe Lord SM.

Caractéristiques produit

- Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet, leather, cotton patchwork…
- 60x60 cm
- Folded in a triangle

Gabriella de Galzain - 125€

She used to work under the name «Frénétik». Today Gabriella de Galzain is coming out of hiding and is launching her eponymous brand. She makes baroque, romantic, rock n’ roll jewellery that expresses a bohemian spirit of elegance and freedom, paying homage to the most beautiful icons. Her undeniable talent can be seen in brooches, necklaces, earrings, cuff-links… She counts many stars among her greatest fans and some of her pieces tell the most beautiful stories. 

 

A GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

We requested an homage to the Eiffel Tower. Only for l'Acharnœur, Gabriella de Galzain came up with this timeless yet contemporary brooch. The blend of off-whites means it can be worn at all times. Pearls, chains, crystals, ceramic flowers… The codes of elegance and femininity with an essential touch of impertinence. All the audacity of the “Grand Dame” herself.


Item made to order. 
Special price: 125€ taxes inclued

«La Parisienne» brooch

Caractéristiques produit

- Resin beading and icons
- Resin flowers, glass cabochon, crystal Swarovski rhinestones
- Base in silver-plated copper
- Silver-plated brass chains
- Icon high : 10cm
- Total high (with chains) : 24 cm 

Idylle

BIMBA & LOLA BRACELET

Feel like a little leopard skin, always in season, but a bit fed up with leopard skin always in season? Well, you can kiss this little bracelet. Leopard on the lips, what a beautiful creation!

Bracelet 65€ «Love Collection» available on bimbaylola.com

station

REMINDERS - WORLDWIDE
Internet
generation-souvenirs.com

  • 29- Station

Were you born in the seventies or the eighties? Or you have heard so much about the period that it has made you curious to know more? While you can’t go back in time, you can still find the objects that marked these eras. From the ‘slinky’ that goes down the stairs on its own to the DVD of “Bouba” not to mention the sachet of Tang, it’s all there! Have fun sharing it with your friends: “OMG, do you remember that?” and give little presents that make you feel fifteen again. Were you born in the nineties? This site has thought of you too…

Discover the treasures : generation-souvenirs

quotidien
  • 29- Quotibien

    Après "Où est Charlie?", le jeu de "Où est la comédienne?"

WRONG PLACE!

Legendary concert halls that make your eyes sparkle with the mere idea of going there! From the Opéra Garnier to the Olympia in Paris, not to mention the Théâtre des Célestins in Lyon, the Opéra de Marseille of the Trianon in Bordeaux… The halls are part of the show. Until… 

Of course, the first impressions are enchanting! Here, the huge neon sign announcing the show, the photos of all the stars who have tread the boards in the past, the long corridors; then, the marble staircase, mouldings and gold leaf, chandeliers; the old door, the boxes with rounded railings… One imagines the arrival of characters which in the past excited the public… You see yourself near the end of the 19th century, between the elegance of the Second Empire and the buzz of the first music halls. Happiness reigns… Then the hostess brings you to your place and things fall apart… 

One part of the sublime décor you could do without is the pillar. An old pillar that is an integral part of the place, but unfortunately located right in front of you which forces you to shift like windscreen wipers to see the actors move on the stage… Not to mention that your seat is in an angle of the hall that hides half the stage as it is! And not to mention the extremely slight slope that can never compensate for growth differences. When you measure 1m65 at the ripe old age of forty, you have no chance of competing with the 16 year-old in front of you who already measures 1m80… Your only option is to fold your overcoat discreetly and sit on it. Having said that, after about an hour you will be glad you did, the overcoat will have protected your derrière from the cold, hard seat. Your neighbours have to twist and turn constantly trying to find a comfortable position…

Despite all of this, you refuse to criticise the charm of the location. So you make do, reminding yourself that you are sitting inside a piece of history. However, the camera plonked right in front of you to film the show is the last straw. Should you complain? You don’t want to steal the limelight by making a scene, in the middle of the stalls!

Marie Veyrier

 

junior_suite
Ce que les placards, les murs ou les tiroirs de notre chambre d'adolescent
racontent sur nous aujourd'hui.
  • 29- Junio Suite

    "The Art of Clean Up" © Ursus Wehrli

CHILDHOOD OBSESSION

When I was small I loved tidying my room. This may seem surprising for a child but it really was my thing.

It all started the day I tipped over my box of tiny beads onto my thick midnight blue coloured carpet. To begin with, everything was all together, the colours and shapes were mixed and all the strings entwined. So I started to pick them up. First of all by hand, then with a needle… I started sorting them meticulously into each little compartment. Unfortunately there weren’t enough boxes to separate all of the colours. I then went as far as collecting my father’s empty cachou boxes on which I would put a sticker with the name of each shade… 

Putting everything in order became my sole aim and I was about to succeed when the whole box fell over again! Strangely, no one had to beg me to get back to work, from the beginning obviously. I have to admit that I found the task relaxing. Believe it or not, sorting little stones one by one made me feel better as I was a solitary kid and I loved to occupy my time alone. The excuse was easy to find!
Especially as once this fastidious task was over I felt proud. I wanted to feel that way again so I began to tidy everything. But really everything. Books categorised by size, colouring pencils in perfect order and even piles of clothes that would not look out of place in a department store, nothing escaped. Even my knickers were colour-coded!

Today this devotion to tidiness can be seen in my home. To the extent that it is sometimes an issue for those who live with me. For example, my four cushions are so well placed on my couch that my flatmates are afraid to sit on it. There is a thin line between passion and obsession, it’s up to us to stay on the right side. A place for everything and everything in its place, that is my motto!

Mégane Seure from an interview with Nathalie P.

 

Collaborateurs

  • Directrice de la Publication et de la Rédaction
    Virginie Achard
  • Directrice Artistique
    Perrine Lebas
  • Concepteur web
    Franck Biehler
  • Chroniqueurs
    Maurice Achard, Bianca Alberti, Bruno Lancelot, Elido, Marie Veyrier, Stéphanie Norris
  • Traductrice
    Tresi Murphy

Invités

PHOTOGRAPHE METAPHORE
Zacharie Gaudrillot-Roy

PHOTOGRAPHES ÉDITORIAL
Odile Berthemy

CHRONIQUEURS
Chloé Danglard, Mégane Seure