edito

Issue number 33. To yet again wish you a fabulous new year, we clink our glasses with yours at a distance. So, “your good health”, as they say. Health? The blandest of wishes but the least anecdotal. The most serious but the one we wish to be the least serious possible. So here’s to “Your good health!”. Next issue out on January 22nd.

truc_du_jour

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  • 33- News qui court 01

    Angoissé, mauvais malade, médecin, vétérinaire : tout y passe dans cet épisode de la série québécoise "Km/h". Peu connue en France, elle ne manque pas moins de divertir avec ses personnages, ses répliques et l'accent irrésistible! Voir l'épisode "Aux petits soins"

respect
  • 33- Respect

    Extrait de "Max" par Giovannetti. © 1978, l'école des loisirs

BREATHE EASY

What is more natural than breathing? To the extent that we don’t even think of it anymore. It happens with no effort. But you should never forget that breathing is a primordial and fundamental activity, with no time out, that continues from the first second of our existence to the last! 

As easy as breathing. Isn’t that what people say about a skill that is easy to acquire, that it’s like breathing? In French they say “he lies like he breathes”, in other words completely naturally! But we would be wrong to underplay the effects of a practice that far from automatic. Indeed, trainers and increasingly, physical and psychological health experts teach the art of mastering its nuances.

This is because the rhythm of our breathing expresses our emotions. Short, sharp intakes of breath reveal a panicked state or one of great anxiety, even a malaise. In the same way a threat can make us hold or stop our breath while a hard blow can wind us completely.
The deeper we breathe, the more likely we are to yawn and the closer we are to total relaxation. Taking a deep breath in order to keep ones calm has a shielding effect. 

Breathing deeply gives one strength. Just like in a cartoon, filling your lungs makes the chest expand and you become more impressive. Breathing out completely can sweep away problems or tensions that keep your head underwater. Chasing out dead air provides us with oxygen. And don’t forget that “inspiration” can make us all an artist or a savant. In ancient Greece, the “pneuma”, breath, designated the soul.

Breathing can also give an impression, an air of something… Some people just breathe intelligence, others health, or happiness. What about you?

Bruno Lancelot

 

beurk
  • 33- Beurk

    Corneal ulcer with contact lens © S.B.

OPTICAL DISSILLUSION

Using competitiveness to increase our buying power sounds good to us, but not if it risks damaging public health. What is this measure in the planned law on consumption aka the Loi Hamon, that will let people buy contact lenses without a prescription*? 

Let’s not be fooled. The whole thing began back in 2008 when the European Commission rapped France on the wrists for its strict legislation that made it very difficult, even impossible to buy glasses or contact lenses online. Nothing to do with the cost. More to do with foreign markets. Today, it has become possible but under certain conditions, one of which is that you have to have a valid prescription.

Not anymore! On paper, it seems like a really good idea to bring down cost of glasses in France which are among the most expensive in Europe. But the lack of a solid framework is leading to side-effects that are scaring the majority of health professionals. And with good reason! Anyone will now be able to order their lenses online going by just their glasses prescription that must be renewed every three years at the least. The problem being that myopia or astigmatism are not treated according to the same data. And a difference in strength or angle can have consequences that go beyond simple headaches. Migraines are nothing compared with an ulcer on the cornea, late detection of glaucoma, arterial hypertension or a sleep apnoea condition…

Eye health in France is currently much better than in other European countries (so it is a huge shame to dismantle a medical system that is working so well). At a time when lenses are no longer just for correction but also used to treat certain pathologies, notably among children, it would be damaging to make them the cause of irreversible lesions. What a step backward… And to think that in the US they have ended up bringing back prescriptions for the sale of lenses online. Perhaps Hamon isn’t aware of this? Unless it is a means to make the economic and social situation a little more unfocused or deformed? 

Virginie Achard

*  Pending: after a first prescription from a doctor. The law has been voted by the Assemblée Nationale, amended by the Senate and is likely to be adopted and implemented. 

 

billard

WARS OR PEACE ?

“Here we go again like in 1914” as the French say.
Even though the expression is used to express a state of mind that is reluctant to go back to work, school or any other unpleasant event or meeting, the “comparison” with the departure for the frontline in 1914 is inappropriate to say the least.
All the more so when the war itself didn’t turn out as planned. It was much longer, harder, more terrible, nightmarish and unimaginable.
And for the six months of the start of this year, we will be celebrating the declaration of the First World War. Up until July 14th as a final bouquet. But we will not be celebrating the victory of November 11th in 1918. A little strange? It would have been less paradoxical, more logical, happier, without of course forgetting to tell the story of those four horrible years. 
Thankfully, if we can say that, another military anniversary is coming up this summer: seventy years since the liberation of Paris in August 1944 with the famous speech from De Gaulle. The problem with that is that Paris was freed but not the whole country and the final victory had not yet been won. The Nazi concentration camps were still going strong. 

Of course the recurring “duty of memory” is not being called into question here. Just the haste in choosing some dates over others gives the impression that it is a question of garnering media coverage to take the emphasis off the uncertain present.
And, after all, all’s fair in love and war…

Maurice Achard

 

floraison
Un livre, un film, une musique... quelques années, décennies ou siècles plus tard.
Quand la culture n’en finit pas de fleurir.
  • 33- Floraison

    Le malade imaginaire by Honoré Daumier

AT LEAST WE CAN LAUGH!

When we talk of health, it is impossible not to mention Molière’s famous hypochondriac in “Le Malade imaginaire”. Not only for the theme but also for the pleasure. Because Molière always gets straight to the point: farce, caricatures – here, Argan the imaginary invalid himself -, well-written dialogue, and situations that are very revealing about human beings! 

The play is above all a reminder as to what doctors used to be like. Through the authority with which they were imbued and the admiration that was almost a form of fear, and through their practices that were truly scary but that no-one dared call into question… Indeed, didn’t King Louis 14th have seventy-nine doctors in total in his service? That might explain his remarkable longevity for the time (77). So people let themselves be bled and undergo other operations that, while they may have provided the early means to discover all there was to know about the human body, tended to do more harm than good. And Molière, who was confronted with this reality, denounced this omnipotence, this quackery. Evidence of this comes in the scene where the doctor threatens Argan the hypochondriac to go from bradypepsia to dyspepsia, to apepsia to lienteria to dysentery to hydropsy to death! Unique. 

So we should celebrate what medicine has become today. One only needs to watch series like Gray’s Anatomy or House to understand to what extent doctors have become heroes.
However, human nature has not evolved to the same level. Molières’ favourite themes of love and money as seen in this play continue to make the world go round, with the same downsides like envy, greed, pretension, stupidity… From those who make us torturers or victims. And it is always with a certain modernity in the rhythm and the pen that Molière invites us to learn something. Even better, to get his message across he makes us laugh and gives us the impression that the idiot is always someone else. A subtlety far from the prevailing sarcasm of certain contemporary comedians. Genius!

Bianca Alberti

 

Métaphore

SOLIPSISM

To what extent is our inner world receptive to the outside world? An existential question on which Julie de Waroquier waxed poetically in the "Solipsisme" series. Dreamlike individual photographs that evolve in their own bubble, modulating according to the winds of reality.

foodoir
  • 33- Foodoir

    Photo © Odile Berthemy

DRINK UP!

Did you drink a lot during Christmas and New Year? A little too much perhaps? To get drunk on jollity or to drown your sadness and anxiety? To stock up on disinhibiting fuel to be able to face the New Year? Well, it’s time to drink more! 

In order to eliminate toxins, you need to go from coloured or highly alcoholic liquids to transparent ones with only 0°… of alcohol content. It’s time to drink mineral water. Everyone can pick their own, according to one’s physical and chemical make-up. 

For those who feel a little bloated, there is carbonated water (a level higher than 600 mg/l) which will make digesting easier by airing out the intestinal passages. Especially sparkling waters like Badoît, Vichy St Yorre, Salvetat, Quézac or Rozana.

For those who are feeling cramped and generally tired, even slightly down, waters with magnesium (level over 50 mg/l) aid muscle relaxation and are good for the nervous system. There is no risk of overdosing so you can drink away (Vittel, only 43 mg/l) Courmayeur, Hépar and the sparkling San Pellegrino, Vernière, Badoît, especially Quézac and Rozana.

The waters that contain extra calcium are always welcome (levels over 150 mg/l), and are essential to bone density levels, muscle tone with Contrex, Courmayeur and Hépar.
But be careful to check the levels of certain elements in these mineral waters – they can be considered harmful on a daily, long-term basis. For example, if you are on a low-sodium diet (lower than 20 mg/l), you should know that sparkling waters have very high levels – with the exception of Salvetat… Take care also to check for sulphates that are often too present, and fluoride to limit your intake over time, etc.

So, you need to do your own calculations. It can be quite difficult, the need to read the labels on bottles carefully to check the elements, spot possible downsides, despite the benefits. Enough to give you a headache! To be treated with a glass of tap-water perhaps, highly regulated in terms of chemical treatment and perfectly drinkable, though with few medicinal properties…
Let’s drink to our health!

Elido

 

BELLE, SEBASTIEN AND ANGÉLIQUE.

Re-heated!
Maybe not. Not that simple
“Belle and Sebastien” and “Angélique”, two famous sixties TV shows and movies that have just been adapted for the cinema, forty years down the line. And the inevitable complaints are being heard: the same old familiar stuff is being served up, trying to make something new from an old recipe… 
Easy to say. But every remake is not necessarily a repeat.

In fact, neither “Belle and Sébastien” nor “Angélique” rely on the same plot. They retained the essence but changed, for example the historical setting. In short, it’s the same, but not the same.
Then the basic question is, are they good, or not? If the blend works - reworks - or not. But everyone agrees that Gérard Lanvin’s performance in “Angélique” is amazing.

We have also been told to expect a new version of the legendary “Un singe en hiver”, but adapted for the theatre. With Eddy Mitchell playing the Jean Gabin role. The news is promising when we remember Mr Eddy’s first foray into the theatre, five years ago at the Madeleine. A roaring success that was broadcast live on France 2.
So remakes are in vogue this winter, without needing to be reheated…

M.A.

 

L'Avenue
LA BOUTIQUE EN LIGNE DE L'ACHARNŒUR.
Pour en savoir plus sur les pièces uniques ou
en édition limitée, cliquez sur les différentes vitrines!

Let It Be Men - 54€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

 

THE LET IT BE SELECTION
FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from leather and white magnetic metal, it is both male and chic, elegant and rock and roll. Perfect alliance between sobriety and confirmed style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur.

 

Price: 54€ 

Caractéristiques produit

- Leather bracelet with "piqûre selleir"
- Magnetic clasp in silvered Zamac 
- Sizes available: 20cm or 22cm (made-to-measure on request)

Lord SM - 180€

Lord SM was set up in 2009, and making luxury from vintage is something they know. It all began with the designer reworking morning suits to make them more « Rock Couture ». Slowly but surely she let her inspiration develop with scarves, bags, leather jackets, tunics, dresses… The terms « Union Jack » or « Mini Jack » are used for the scarves only she knows the secret to. Her « Ring of Fire » scarves are the stuff dreams are made of and we have a total crush on her fringed bags. Her pieces already have a cult following and her Spring/Summer 2013 collection was presented at Tranoï. The world is Lord SM’s oyster.

 

L’ACHARNŒUR CHOOSES

A Mini-Jack in vintage fabric and noble materials. Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet and leather all blended in a unique patchwork. The cut is the result of hours of work, stitching and imagination, which makes it adaptable to all shapes. The model is unisex and universal. 100% made in Paris, 100% Lord SM. New pieces available in the same shades.

 

One-off piece. Price: 180 € taxes inclued

Mini-Jack unisexe Lord SM.

Caractéristiques produit

- Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet, leather, cotton patchwork…
- 60x60 cm
- Folded in a triangle

Let It Be - 63€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

 

THE LET IT BE SELECTION
FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from soft leather and white metal, it is both chic and gothic, ultra-precious and rock and roll. The clasp dresses the wrist with a refinement and originality that attracts all women, regardless of their age or style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur and also available without the skull.

 

Price: 63€ with skull.
58€ without skull.

Without skull item or with a bow also avalaible.

Caractéristiques produit

- Leather bracelet
- Bracelet chain in plate silver
- Skull clasp in stainless Zamac 
- Sizes available: 32cm, 34 or 36cm (made-to-measure on request)

Cyrto

Cyrto is extremely shy and prefers the shadows to the light. She is an illustrator and graphic artist and is spending more and more time on her true calling: creating fantastic worlds from her own emotion, impulse and imagination. She invents but does not reinvent. She follows no trend or influence but instead takes all her inspiration from her inner self. Her uniquely artistic approach will soon be visible through her writing and directing.

 

CYRTO GLOVES

 

The whole idea comes from the glove as second skin. Cyrto creates indelible designs on gloves evoking ramifications, sketches… connections. Each piece is unique and comes only from her imagination. There are no rules, no hierarchy, the cells form every instant and grow together through paths and encounters. Her lines tell of a fantastic world that is almost invisible to the naked eye. Between tattoo art and a pseudo-botanic vision, the lines of the hand take on a new meaning.

 

Gloves made to order. 

 

The approach is entirely artistic. The final piece is handed over in exchange for an envelope in which the client « gives » the amount they wish.

 

The Acharnœur will act as intermediary but takes no commission. For more information: avenue@acharnoeur.com

Illustration from Cyrto Art.

Caractéristiques produit

- Light-coloured gloves supplied by the client
- Unique drawings done in indelible ink 
- Time required: two weeks
- Price of piece fixed by the client
- Delivery costs extra (6€ minimum for France)

Uni&Vintage -198€

Behind Uni&Vintage is the eye and imagination of one Christine Ekodo-Delaunay. So, what is her USP? She cuts up vintage clothes, scarves and fabrics, puts them together if needed with a specially dyed satin to help the fabrics blend and makes an entirely new piece. Skirts, shirts, trousers, tunics: the Uni&Vintage line proposes exclusive cuts that fall differently according to colours and prints. As a result, each design is unique and numbered as part of a broader collection.

 

 A UNI&VINTAGE DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

A vintage Lanvin headscarf, satin dyed in verdigris, a « kimono » cut, together form the skirt specially made for l’Acharnœur. The multitude of colours blend delicately as the bands superimpose with modernity. The inner belt is adaptable so the skirt falls perfectly on everyone regardless of size. The outer belt dresses the entire waist for an ultra-refined effect. This piece is number 1045 of the Uni&Vintage brand.

 

One-off piece. Price: 298€ taxes inclued

Uni&Vintage silk and satin skirt. Piece number 1045.

Caractéristiques produit

- Front and outer belt: vintage Lanvin headscarf 100 % silk 
- Back and inner bands: 66% satin and 33% cotton 
- Kimono belt
- Size 2

145€

GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN

 

She used to work under the name « Frénétik ». Today Gabriella de Galzain is coming out of hiding and is launching her eponymous brand. She makes baroque, romantic, rock n’ roll jewellery that expresses a bohemian spirit of elegance and freedom, paying homage to the most beautiful icons. Her undeniable talent can be seen in brooches, necklaces, earrings, cuff-links… She counts many stars among her greatest fans and some of her pieces tell the most beautiful stories. 

 

 

 A GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

We requested an homage to the Eiffel Tower. Gabriella de Galzain came up with this timeless yet contemporary brooch. The blend of off-whites means it can be worn at all times. Pearls, chains, crystals, ceramic flowers… The codes of elegance and femininity with an essential touch of impertinence. All the audacity of the “Grand Dame” herself.

 

Item made to order. 
Price: 95€ instead of 145€ taxes inclued

«La Parisienne» brooch

Caractéristiques produit

- Resin beading and icons
- Resin flowers, glass cabochon, crystal Swarovski rhinestones
- Base in silver-plated copper
- Silver-plated brass chains
- Icon high : 10cm
- Total high (with chains) : 24 cm 

Idylle

HOT WATER BOTTLE COVER

While the hot water bottle doubtless evokes warmth and well-being, it also means “passion-killer” or boring, here is a version that will prove the doubters wrong and make the fans happy!

29,99€ fake-fur hot-water bottle cover. Available on doucebouillotte.fr

station

BEAUTY BUS
Wandering routes
Variable metros!

This is a nice idea to get an instant shot of feel-good in the arm! "Le Boudoir des cocottes", a girly pink vintage van that has been converted into a beauty salon, parks outside your office and offers fifteen-minute manicures, hairstyles (chignons, high buns, fashion pony-tails…), make-up or wax (upper lip/ eyebrows). In short, the basics needed in an emergency – shiny new nails before an important meeting or spur-of-the-moment date – or before going to a party straight from the office. The price list is a small and sweet as the boudoir, taking care of our financial health!

For more information : leboudoirdescocottes.eu

  • 33- Station
quotidien
  • 33- Quotichien

    Photo © l'Acharnœur

CALL IN SICK!

Imaginary invalids have not gone away. They are even quite gifted at varying the drama!

Obviously, we always have the hypochondriac. But he no longer surrounds himself with doctors to have an ailment diagnosed or treated. No, he imagines them all by himself as soon as a new illness comes to light. The tiniest little spot becomes the sign of a serious infection. Above all, he loves to surf the net to come to his own conclusions, see terrifying photos and imagine the worst…

A variant: the “true-false” sick people. To begin with, those who exaggerate everything. Men mostly. It’s a well-known fact. A slight shiver and they are on their death bed. Wrapped in a dressing gown, under the quilt, the deathly voice, the eyes half-closed, the slightly forced cough… Even asking for the remote control becomes a trial. 

Having said that, they are no worse than those, mostly women who always have an issue: from their back to their ear to their toe… With them you are sure to revise your anatomy and all the risks it runs! Did you know that the nerve located in between the third and fourth vertebra can get stuck all by itself? Without you actually moving? They are firm believers.

On the opposite end of the scale there are the “been-there, done thats”. They are fine but they’ve “already had” high fevers, sore throats, vomiting bugs… And it was “such a nightmare” that their bathroom looks like a chemist shop. When you are in their house, you have nothing to worry about. No matter what you come down with, they have the remedy.

Finally, there are those who never take care of themselves. Terrible… In comparison, the most authentic but the toughest too. They prefer to wait. Wait until they get better spontaneously and see how things pan out instead of swallowing a pile of junk. Pain is in the mind? Now that’s sick!

Marie Veyrier

 

junior_suite
Ce que les placards, les murs ou les tiroirs de notre chambre d'adolescent
racontent sur nous aujourd'hui.
  • 33- Junior Suite

    A part that Caroline has kept from her collection!

A CRUISE WITH TOM

My teenage bedroom? Tom Cruise! What I mean is “a shrine to Tom Cruise”. It was love at first sight when I was fourteen. It all happened during “Mission: Impossible”. I remember it as if it were yesterday. Things didn’t get any better when I started to examine his back catalogue and discovered Top Gun, among others. 

I still don’t know why he had such an effect on me but sometimes you can’t explain love! Whatever, I bought every single magazine like «OK» or «Salut» where he was mentioned. Even my friend in Germany sent me everything that came out on the subject. And when I found a “100% posters” that was all about Tom, I think I may have had what might have been my first orgasm! I papered my bedroom wall with them. I even papered the ceiling when I ran out of room. I would stick photos into notebooks. I had my favourite pages and I would look at them before I went to sleep. I also included Nicole Kidman. I wasn’t jealous! Mind you, when he married Katie Holmes who is my age, I was a little green. 

In the meantime, this virtual love helped me get through my teens as a pretty shy girl, when I thought I wasn’t very pretty, “ugly and nerdy” to be precise. He was my only obsession so I was able to concentrate on my studies, with pretty good results I might add! 

Tom even came to engineering school with me. But when my friends started to throw tennis balls at him and the plaster started coming off the wall, I realised it was time to take him down! I also understood that boys could be jealous. So, I did interest them after all? Tom left discreetly to leave a bit of room. Is the man in my life now anything like him? He is American at least but he’s blond and is 1.98m tall. Spot the difference!

B.A. from an interview with Caroline A.

 

Collaborateurs

  • Directrice de la Publication et de la Rédaction
    Virginie Achard
  • Directrice Artistique
    Perrine Lebas
  • Concepteur web
    Franck Biehler
  • Chroniqueurs
    Maurice Achard, Bianca Alberti, Bruno Lancelot, Elido, Marie Veyrier, Stéphanie Norris
  • Traductrice
    Tresi Murphy

Invités

PHOTOGRAPHE METAPHORE
Julie de Waroquier

PHOTOGRAPHE ÉDITORIAL
Odile Berthemy, S.B.