edito

We follow the car with a dancer. Shoes with new obsessions. Fluorescence with Tim Burton… Variations on all of the themes. For this, the second issue, l’Acharnœur brings you a little further into its world so that you can discover what is hidden in each section. Next issue on November 14th. 

respect
  • 02- Respect

    Photo © Stina Photography

SPLITSVILLE

Her name is Laurence Hilsum. Since 2006, she has made an art out of pole dancing. Not easy when you know the connotations of this sporting activity that essentially comes from strip clubs. And it must be said, despite the high level of democratisation and the opening of a number of schools for the general public, this activity is still prey to preconceptions and lurid curiosity. As a result, performers worldwide are attempting to give pole dancing another image. With unbelievable contortions, dangerous acrobatics and astonishing «abdominal» positions around a bar no thicker than a lamppost. Even so, the results are not always graceful or moving. This is where Laurence Hilsum’s style stands out.

As far as she’s concerned, Pole Dancing will be contemporary, or will not be at all. It’s daring. Each of her shows tell a story. Each of her movements is a vibration. She chooses her music for its rhythmic or ethnic universe rather than its popularity. Each piece of music teaches us to listen to the notes, the sounds. The result is beautiful, there can be no doubt.

Sometimes, it is not without risk. Sometimes things go off the rails. Like her show where she appears on stage covered from head to toe in blue ribbon that she shakes off with a huge scream. Too deep, too serious, too committed. But her shows never lack emotion and the feedback is uniformly positive. In recent years, Laurence Hilsum has become the French woman to win the most prizes in her category and she is vice-world champion until November 10th when she will compete in this year’s world championships in Zurich. She is also an inspiration to other international dancers. She has a real «French touch». But, above all, because of her we look differently on contemporary pole dancing. Double the challenge, double the success. So she stays in Pole Position. 

Marie Veyrier

 


Check out Pole Dancing according to Laurence Hilsum:

Pole Art 2010 : Laurence Hilsum was champion.
World Pole Dance 2011 : Laurence Hilsum was vice-champion. 
- Pole Art 2012 : Laurence Hilsum won the third place.
- Aerial Pole Dance International 2011 : Laurence Hilsum and the blue ribbon
 
 
beurk
  • 02- Beurk NB

    Photo © Odile Berthemy

POISONED GIFT

Customs and traditions have to evolve at some stage. Or do they? Proof, if needed is this tradition of a «group gift» that seems to have become the norm at birthdays. Of course, when the birthday girl or boy drop enough hints to their friends and family that they are «dying for a *****», it is hard to ignore. The same goes for the key ages where an unforgettable gift is appropriate but overly expensive for one person. Otherwise, this new practice leaves an unpleasant, complicated, sad and above all impersonal taste.

Unpleasant as the exchanges are often by group email between all of the guests, not all of whom necessarily know one another. Regardless. Everyone sticks their oar in, gives their opinion on other people’s ideas, makes comments about the opinions… And if all of this jams your inbox, saying it makes you look like a party pooper.

Complicated because you have to have a collection. The person in charge of this particular mission always ends up losing out due to promised donations that never materialise and that are hard to chase up without looking like Ebenezer Scrooge. Not to mention that each guest has to say how much they are contributing. Whether or not they are naturally generous, having money worries, or barely know the birthday girl or boy, they will be secretly judged either for overdoing things or being stingy.

Sad because the present-opening is transformed into a surprise-less event as everyone knows what’s in the box except for the recipient. Even the card is sad. Through shyness, lack of inspiration or time, the messages are often banal in the extreme.

Impersonal, finally as it nullifies all marks of affection that each guest might have shown in their own name through a small object, carefully chosen for the occasion. It precludes all personal messages, removes the possibility for any complicity in the gift-giving... In short, it puts an end to the instant where everyone laughs, smiles, even weeps a little.

Of course, the option is always there to go it alone. But you are taking the risk of looking like you want to stand out from the crowd or exclude yourself from the group. Not very gift.

Bianca Alberti

 
 
billard

WHAT'S IN
A NAME!

There are two ways to be an Armstrong on earth. The heroic but discreet way and the spectacular, show-off way.Neil Armstrong died on August 25th last and will forever remain the first man to have walked on the moon. Lance Armstrong was stripped of his 7 Tour de France titles on October 22nd last for organised cheating and banned for life from the cycling world he has so tainted. The moon was spotless when Neil it.
Two ways of living life, the opposite extremes of human nature.

Neil Armstrong detested celebrity, fled from photographers, rarely gave interviews and even more rarely autographs after learning that his barber used to sell on the autographs he signed! On the other hand, Lance Armstrong liked to display himself as above others, wanting to be seen as a champion, idol and businessman…
Neil Armstrong became an icon despite himself, a bit like in «Super Star», a film that came out just after he died where the main character flees the celebrity he acquires from one day to the next (for no reason). In these times of celebrity and social networking, where notoriety has become an end in itself, the theme seems to be going against the flow. 
Lance Armstrong thought to avoid his own end for eternity. It caught up with him eventually and has left him a zombie.

Neil, our modest lunar pioneer, left us serenely and perhaps on the other side has met up with a third Armstrong, Louis, who might sing «What a wonderful Moon»… Leaving Lance’s world far behind.

Maurice Achard


floraison
Un livre, un film, une musique... quelques années, décennies ou siècles plus tard.
Quand la culture n’en finit pas de fleurir.
  • 02- Floraison

    Photo © www.leonardcohen.com

SPEECHLESS

If you want to move an entire audience or just one person, surprise them and suspend time for a few minutes, there is only one song. «Hallelujah» by Leonard Cohen.

An exaggeration? Not according to the almost 200 cover versions that have been done of the song since its release in 1984 on the Various Positions album. John Cale, Jeff Buckley (with slightly different lyrics), Bon Jovi, Bob Dylan, Justin Timberlake, Vanessa Paradis and M.Pokora, have all done a version to mention but a few, very diverse, artists. Either a recorded version or a live version. It simple, this song has been reinterpreted in so many different ways by so many different artists with the most diverse styles that there seems to be a version to suit everyone’s iTune’s library. Films, television programmes and series have also surfed the wave, even Shrek. So, it loses a bit of its magic, even though it still retains some impact.

But how can one song touch so many? The lyrics? «Hallelujah» blends sexual and religious references. Biblical allusions and emotional disillusionment, depending on the listener. It’s not easy to seduce on this register. Sex yes, religion no. And even more today than in the past, as it is the subject of our greatest conflicts. So what else? The tune? The scales more like. The scales each artist must reach to pierce our souls. And the exercise is not about the pitch, it’s about the highs and lows. In the moments that are murmured almost, those that seem to fight back, those who go into incantations, those who cry, those who breathe and those who shout. « Hallelujah » is not for reciting; «Hallelujah» must be lived. To do so, each artist places their voice differently, reworks the arrangement, and changes the chords. «Hallelujah» is about trust, an instant of intimacy during which the singer presents a bouquet of feelings. And whether it is pain or pleasure, there are always a few seconds when the intensity hits us. «Hallelujah», the word itself is no longer a Catholic acclamation. It is a call to share a feeling. It sounds like a rallying cry. In the end, this is the most astonishing aspect. It takes us away, and that’s what matters. 

M.V.


Different versions of the same song:

Leonard Cohen 
Jeff Buckley 
Vanessa Paradis 

 
Métaphore

20th CENTURY MYTHS

When mythological characters step out from paintings or sculptures and come to life. They take inspiration from everyday objects to tell the story. A selection from the «Famythologie» series created by our photograph Odile Berthemy in 1990.

 
foodoir
  • 02- Foodoir

    Photo © Odile Berthemy

HOW ARE YOU VEALING?

So, why calf liver? Not because a grandmother reminded us of an old rhyme: «Il était une fois, une marchande de foie dans la ville de Foix, qui se dit: ma foi…» (punning outrageously on the foi (faith), foie (liver), Foix (town) homonyms). But because calf liver is always tasty but the price never ceases to shock. True, it is delicious, healthy, happily eaten by kids (and everyone else) but why on earth is it so expensive? We are told this is due to the limited production.

To begin with, the liver is relatively small compared to the size of the animal. But it is a concentrated source of vitamins (especially A, B12, D, as well as B5, B6, C) and iron. Without going into too much detail, it has been proven that calf’s liver is good for the skin, the bones, the memory and the nervous system. It has a very high level of nutritional density, more than a piece of beef. So we understand why one only needs a thin slice to invigorate those with small appetites.

In any case, veal is expensive. It is the cost of an agricultural love story. The love begins in the fields. From breeders to suppliers, we are told that the production requires a high level of care, not to mention that it must comply with all kinds of environmental regulations. The producers detail the quality of the ground, the grass, the air, of calves fed on milk, eggs and sugar… And whenever possible, butchers are proud to trumpet their local or regional produce.

Of course you can get imported veal calves, but they are less refined. Because the butchers are not averse to a little poetry. To illustrate the difference in quality between local and imported produce, one butcher came up with an image that fashion designers might find amusing. He told us «It’s like the difference between a silk dress and a cotton dress: the grain isn’t the same.» A little luxury that is good for the body? Sounds offaly nice…

Elido

 

SHOW BUZZ

The name is «Politiquement show» but it isn’t a talk-show.

The term talk-show conjures up an image of those noisy programmes where the presenter feels the need to shout or to go for the cheap joke over the slightest interesting comment from one of the far too numerous guests, washed down with far too much audience participation.

 «Politiquement show» is something else. Another tune, another light… Words are given room to breathe, to fly.

There are three or four well-chosen contributors around the table with presenter Michel Field. The three permanent guests play their part with unbridled precision. Olivier Duhamel, a lecturer at Sciences Po, plays on the left; Jérôme Jaffré, an opinion analyst, plays in the centre; and Alexis Brézet, the editor of le Figaro, plays on the right. The ball flies around the pitch, well-aimed with plenty of tackling. Duhamel’s blood rises, Jaffré outlines his point meticulously, Brézet sends missiles with a smile: the script is always complete and the sparkling dialogue is written live on air. Pure pleasure. There is no «party line», much to the dismay of the weekly political guest, always surprised by the programme’s refreshing liberty.

In fact, this little gang of relevant but irreverent contributors seems more like a travelling theatre group, and they don’t get enough credit in the press, because who has time to watch ?

See it Thursdays at 19h10 on LCI.

M.A.

 
L'Avenue
LA BOUTIQUE EN LIGNE DE L'ACHARNŒUR.
Pour en savoir plus sur les pièces uniques ou
en édition limitée, cliquez sur les différentes vitrines!

Lord SM - 180€

Lord SM was set up in 2009, and making luxury from vintage is something they know. It all began with the designer reworking morning suits to make them more « Rock Couture ». Slowly but surely she let her inspiration develop with scarves, bags, leather jackets, tunics, dresses… The terms « Union Jack » or « Mini Jack » are used for the scarves only she knows the secret to. Her « Ring of Fire » scarves are the stuff dreams are made of and we have a total crush on her fringed bags. Her pieces already have a cult following and her Spring/Summer 2013 collection was presented at Tranoï. The world is Lord SM’s oyster.

 

L’ACHARNŒUR CHOOSES

A Mini-Jack in vintage fabric and noble materials. Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet and leather all blended in a unique patchwork. The cut is the result of hours of work, stitching and imagination, which makes it adaptable to all shapes. The model is unisex and universal. 100% made in Paris, 100% Lord SM. New pieces available in the same shades.

 

One-off piece. Price: 180 € taxes inclued

Mini-Jack unisexe Lord SM.

Caractéristiques produit

- Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet, leather, cotton patchwork…
- 60x60 cm
- Folded in a triangle

Uni&Vintage -198€

Behind Uni&Vintage is the eye and imagination of one Christine Ekodo-Delaunay. So, what is her USP? She cuts up vintage clothes, scarves and fabrics, puts them together if needed with a specially dyed satin to help the fabrics blend and makes an entirely new piece. Skirts, shirts, trousers, tunics: the Uni&Vintage line proposes exclusive cuts that fall differently according to colours and prints. As a result, each design is unique and numbered as part of a broader collection.

 

 A UNI&VINTAGE DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

A vintage Lanvin headscarf, satin dyed in verdigris, a « kimono » cut, together form the skirt specially made for l’Acharnœur. The multitude of colours blend delicately as the bands superimpose with modernity. The inner belt is adaptable so the skirt falls perfectly on everyone regardless of size. The outer belt dresses the entire waist for an ultra-refined effect. This piece is number 1045 of the Uni&Vintage brand.

 

One-off piece. Price: 298€ taxes inclued

Uni&Vintage silk and satin skirt. Piece number 1045.

Caractéristiques produit

- Front and outer belt: vintage Lanvin headscarf 100 % silk 
- Back and inner bands: 66% satin and 33% cotton 
- Kimono belt
- Size 2

Émilie Beaussart

Émilie Beaussart’s family have been shoe designers for two generations. And not just from father to daughter. So her passion for footwear came naturally. She first worked as a designer at Yves Saint-Laurent, before launching her own brand a year ago. Her designs are completely hand-made in a Parisian workshop using noble, supple materials to guarantee lightness but above all comfort. Her first collection includes modern designs that are both poetic and obsession-inducing, but always reflect a woman of character.

 

 

L’ACHARNŒUR CHOOSES

Among her limited edition models, we have chosen these ankle boots in calfskin and black patent leather. The arch is measured to keep up with the daily rush of the city dweller. The ankle strap is an original aesthetic touch that keeps the foot perfectly balanced. The curves of the boots and the patent leather are particularly feminine. The pompom and the contrast in materials, between matt and light, bring a note of classicism and mystery.

 

Limited edition, made to order. Price: 595€ taxes inclued

Other photos available on request

Caractéristiques produit

- Black calfskin with patent leather detail
- Leather soles and lining
-125 mm heel with 25 mm inner platform for more comfort
- Zip interior
- Completely hand-made in a workshop in Paris

Vanessa Deutsch

Hats, bandeaus, hair bands, caps... Vanessa Deutsch is a passionate hat designer who reinvents all types of head gear. Her credo: originality, practicality and elegance. Not to mention quality. Vanessa Deutsch’s has exacting standards in terms of materials, when she doesn’t make them herself, and she still does some of the stitching. Her true skills reveal unexpected collections that can dress even the most resistant heads! Hats off!

 

A LIMITED EDITION VANESSA DEUTSCH DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

Among her greatest hits: the Jane hair band. Two leaves, one on the left, one on the right, that are placed naturally on our head to light up our hair with Swarovski glitter powder. Reminiscent of a princess crown or angel wings, this hair-band is now available exclusively for l’Acharnœur in bronze-green.

Limited edition of 15 items. Price: 60€  taxes inclued

 

Jane model in bronze-green.

Caractéristiques produit

- Reworked lace wings with a sprinkle of Swarovski glitter powder.
- Steel hair band covered in black polyester. Thickness: 4 mm
- One size

Opalis Paris

Since 2001, Opalis Paris has been making hair products that are light years away from the usual aggressive formulae foisted upon us by big industry. Their plant-based and silicon-free shampoos, creams, oils and lotions give off odours that would melt an ice-floe. Another point in their favour, there is no waiting period and they protect and repair our hair like nothing on earth. We’ve been fans for years, we swear by their products and we’re not alone; plenty of stars and women’s magazines have come out in their favour recently.

 

OPALIS SPECIAL OFFER, ONLY FOR L'ACHARNŒUR: 

A shampoo and conditioner... When you buy these two products, Opalis will give you a Booster hair treatment. This treatment, to be enjoyed in the Institut Opalis, has been specially developed to prepare your hair by removing all impurities. You will relax in the hands of an expert and learn the key gestures to optimise the application and benefits of each product. There is no date-limit on this hour-long treatment.

Limited edition offer. Price: 72€ taxes inclued

Institut Opalis - 63, rue de Ponthieu 75008 Paris. www.opalisparis.com

Caractéristiques produit

- The 150 ml shampoo. Options: for greasy hair with essential oils of thyme and rosemary, for dry hair with orange flower water, anti-dandruff with cade oil or for normal hair with Lavender essential oil. 
- The 200 ml conditioner with macadamia oil, wheat germ and sweet almond oil
- The Booster treatment, to be booked in the institute.
All informations : www.opalisparis.com

Gabriella de Galzain

She used to work under the name « Frénétik ». Today Gabriella de Galzain is coming out of hiding and is launching her eponymous brand. She makes baroque, romantic, rock n’ roll jewellery that expresses a bohemian spirit of elegance and freedom, paying homage to the most beautiful icons. Her undeniable talent can be seen in brooches, necklaces, earrings, cuff-links… She counts many stars among her greatest fans and some of her pieces tell the most beautiful stories.

 

A GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

We requested an homage to the Eiffel Tower. Gabriella de Galzain came up with this timeless yet contemporary brooch. The blend of off-whites means it can be worn at all times. Pearls, chains, crystals, ceramic flowers… The codes of elegance and femininity with an essential touch of impertinence. All the audacity of the “Grand Dame” herself.

 

Item made to order. Price: 145€ taxes inclued

 «La Parisienne» brooch

Caractéristiques produit

- Resin beading and icons
- Resin flowers, glass cabochon, crystal Swarovski rhinestones
- Base in silver-plated copper
- Silver-plated brass chains

corruption
Ils nous ont demandé d'en parler.
Comme on a aimé ce qu’ils proposaient, on l’a fait... À notre façon !
  • 0 - LCS

SEEING RED

The aim of Cosmétiques Design Paris is simple: offer high quality skincare and beauty products for prices that range from 1.20 Euros to 12 Euros. The 1.20 Euro product is shower gel, the 12 Euro product is an anti-ageing cream that contains 24 carat gold. And that’s it. So naturally, we were intrigued. We wondered how they managed to do what they were doing, and if it was working. And above all, we wondered if the products were any good.

To answer the first question we talked to Marie-Caroline Renault, head of marketing: « We decided not to have a brand ambassador, it saves a lot of money and enables us to invest more in the lab and have each range approved by an expert. » That makes sense. Now, to answer the product quality question, we played guinea pig ourselves and tried out a few items. A make-up remover that was presented at a dermatology conference, a flower-based shower gel, the cream with the gold and a lipstick… While the products are more or less on a par with the competition, given that the competition includes luxury brands, we do have a serious crush - especially on the lips.

Their lipstick shade 050 from the Pro’s Couture line is a pearl. For the first time ever, we seem to be pulling off THE red lip. THE movie-star red, THE seriously bright, ultra-feminine red we thought was the preserve of pretty pouters. It goes on easily, no need for a make-up artist, it doesn’t bleed and it lasts for hours… And, most of all, we don’t feel ridiculous. Feedback of course is positive, it goes without saying. And all for 7.50 Euros? Nothing to add.

Les Cosmétiques Design Paris are sold in exclusivity in Carrefour Shops and have 650 products. If there are other treasures like this one, then perhaps we should all take a closer look…

B.A.

 

www.lescosmetiquesdesignparis.com
• Where to find them ? Only at Carrefour : www.carrefour.fr/LD_magasins

 

 

Idylle

LES BIJOUX DE SOPHIE

We all know her skull, but this cup brings us back to life every morning, especially for Halloween!

 

60 €. On sale in her new store.
27, rue de Tournon, 75006 Paris

 
  • 02- Idylle
station

PARIS
Metro Mabillon or Odéon
Line 10 ou 04

  • 02- Station

«Art is show» for the two artists Michel Espagnon and Jean Gabaret from the VLP (Vive La Peinture) collective, who climbed out of the Paris Catacombs in 1983 to spread their graffiti art around the city. Since then they have taken their art to Germany, and even to nightclubs (la Loco, le Rex), behind ZUMAN their stylised character computer-generated from collected photos. They are having a stopover in the galerie Seven for the next month.

 

Fore more informations:
www.vivelapeinture.free.fr  

For the moment:
Espace Seven
7 rue Bonaparte  - 75006 Paris

 
quotidien
  • 02- Quotichien

    The nightmare by Johann Heinrich Füssli

DREAM A LITTLE DREAM

«Sweet dreams» is what we usually say to people on their way to bed. Why «sweet» ? Because the not sweet ones are nightmares and you wouldn’t wish them on anyone. As for dreams, without an adjective before them, they are not always better. In fact, they can ruin everything. Make you get out of the bed on the wrong side, literally and psychologically. The image is a little strange but it explains why there are some mornings when you feel like you haven’t actually slept a wink. Why is that ? We are told that the conscious mind releases everything it has recorded over the previous few days and the subconscious releases everything it has recorded over the previous few years. Even just writing it all down tires us out. 

So we end up with stories that are hard to work out. Sketches we have trouble decoding. Maze-like intrigues. But these ones have no way out, just different paths with their own adventures. Things link up without necessarily meaning anything, but we try to make sense of them nonetheless. That’s why the mind works so hard while it should be sleeping. Not only does it construct this fantastic scenario, it then tries to understand it. Exhausting. 

All of a sudden, logic takes control again. Your eyes open in the middle of the night. Between two worlds. Should we start exactly where we left off to try to work it out? Or should we sweep the whole thing out of our mind and start over? Move on to something else… Unfortunately, we don’t get to decide. We head straight back into another entanglement because our conscious/subconscious hasn’t quite finished. But this time, there is a new variant to add to the confusion: noise from outside. Birdsong, jackhammer, telephones… Even the ring from your alarm clock can join in! It blends into the tableau and the last scene becomes an incoherent muddle. It’s enough to make you happy to get back to reality. To make you happy with your own reality? Happy with your own reality? What a dream !

B.A.


junior_suite
Ce que les placards, les murs ou les tiroirs de notre chambre d'adolescent
racontent sur nous aujourd'hui.
  • 02- Junior Suite

TIM FOR EVER

I first met Tim Burton at the age of eight. Well, I met "Beetlejuice". I found a VHS my uncle had left behind and watched it in secret. My parents would never have let me watch it if they had known. That was the first thrill! The second thrill was even better. For the first time ever, a scary character was also funny. For the first time, death was amusing and not a weird subject that adults skirted around with embarrassment. The boogie man under the bed was suddenly likeable. Fear and the unknown became less dark.

I must have watched the film two or three times before my father taped over it with Formula One racing. The worst. I had to wait until it was on TV to see it again. In the meantime, my imagination took over. Without the pictures, I reworked the film in my head. I also took an interest in the director. What if he had made other films, just as scary and just as funny ?

So Tim Burton and I became friends. I wait impatiently for him. Every film reveals a universe that is fantastic before it turns macabre. As Tim Burton introduces us to so many strange characters: a scarecrow skeleton, a man with scissors for hands, a murderous barber, a dead bride… Both nothing is dismal. On the contrary, the poetry wins out every time. And I find that soothing. I love Tim the filmmaker as much as Burton the artist. The simplicity of the lines he draws renders them majestic. I even fall for the charms of certain heroes without knowing he is the auteur like with Vincent Price. It has been a revelation: Tim Burton’s tales are my religion, my belief system. The vision I have adopted for life after death. And I even wear the uniform: since I was sixteen years old, I have worn black and white striped tee-shirts. Obviously for the clownish aspect of the stripes. It’s no harm to laugh in the face of death!

M.V. From an interview with Justine L.


Collaborateurs

  • Directrice de la Publication et de la Rédaction
    Virginie Achard
  • Directrice Artistique
    Perrine Lebas
  • Concepteur web
    Franck Biehler
  • Chroniqueurs
    Maurice Achard, Bianca Alberti, Bruno Lancelot, Elido, Marie Veyrier, Stéphanie Norris
  • Traductrice
    Tresi Murphy

Invités

PHOTOGRAPHE EDITORIAL ET METAPHORE
Odile Berthemy