edito

Want to take things further? L’Acharnœur invites you to its first Gastronomy Confidential event. A tasting session to rediscover the « ham and cheese board » with some rare produce and a few surprising combinations. Feel like nibbling other topics? Savour the new issue of L’Acharnœur until November 27th.

truc_du_jour

radiateur

  • 03- News qui court03

    19h30. Paris. Un vieux radiateur réchauffe l'heure de l'apéro dans un café de quartier. C'est bon, c'est beau.

respect
  • 03- Respect

    Illustration © Kiraz

DRESSED FOR WINTER

To begin with, they were just the lyrics of a Hugues Auffray song. Then, it became a saying: « girls get pretty again once Springtime comes ». Pity, winter is on the way. Does this mean that the entire female population loses its charm for the next few months? It must be said that puffa jackets and boots are not the most flattering of attire. Thankfully, there is a category of women who manage to keep standards up in all circumstances. These « victimes de la mode » tend to keep us amused with their OTT outfits and their futile stylistic obsessions are often the butt of our jokes. This may sometimes the case, but it is a touch categorical and more than a little inflexible.

Seriously, if you look a little closer, especially in the grim months, it’s not unpleasant. These women add surprise, colour, pleasure and pure bottle; they remind us that we don’t necessarily have to hibernate. Lesson one. And if you’re wondering why they’re not shivering in that adorable little jacket, maybe its hiding a mini lace thermal vest that we, with our ice-covered imaginations, were incapable of finding. Not only that, they symbolise an elegance that is considered to be very French. And we mean elegance, not fashion. It’s all there. They won’t – or are unlikely to, wear strappy sandals in the deep mid-winter as is the wont of our English or American neighbours. They have a sense of measure. While Paris might no longer be the world’s only fashion capital with Milan, New York or London snapping at its stiletto heels, it is still the capital of perfect taste. As Coco Chanel once said « Fashion goes out of fashion, style never does ».

So our « victimes » provide year-round fodder for one of our cultural myths. This is no small feat. Lesson two. Do they thus deserve our ironic and mocking looks? It’s a French thing… They make us want to be better. Lesson three. And, if we don’t know how to wear a nice shirt in the winter, there’s no point getting shirty about it… 

Marie Veyrier

beurk
  • 03- Respect

    Photo © Odile Berthemy

ADVANCE CALENDAR

So, Christmas, is it before or after Halloween? This year, confusion reigns. Santa Claus appeared in stores and on radio adverts before we even managed to buy a pumpkin.

Let’s be clear: Christmas, the shopping feast, has been coming way too soon for years. But wasn’t there some unwritten agreement that things didn’t kick off until after the 1st of November? Well the agreement seems to have been shredded, in a big way. Is there a need to launch special offers to beat the competition? In this key sales period, is the fear recession-based? 

Of course, the holiday season is an enjoyable time. It buoys us up in the final stretch of the long year. The problem is, we weren’t ready. We were still in that transition period between back to school and the first bank holiday weekend of the autumn. We were just getting used to the shorter days, to putting the heat back on. These adverts have upset our inner calendar and our train of thought. They are making time go even faster. They unscrupulously force us into gift planning before we even get a chance to think « family », « tree » or « decorations”. There is no satisfaction. As for the kids, they haven’t even had time to turn down the corners of the toy catalogues while their favourite man in red is already suggesting gifts to the adults. In short, the Christmas lights haven’t even been switched on, but the magic of Christmas has already gone out. Pathetic.

So what? Obviously these few lines are not going to convince businesses to reset their calendars. But if they think that one day we will start doing our Christmas shopping the minute we get back from summer holidays, just when the tax bill arrives, they don’t believe in Father Christmas, they believe in miracles. 

Bianca Alberti

billard

E=MC GOD

«La pensée de Dieu» (God’s thoughts), the new best-seller by the Bogdanov brothers, that are to receive an award in Belgrade on November 16th, is named for an answer Einstein gave one of his students after a class:
- What are you looking for? 
- God’s thoughts, the master answered.
Meaning: a sort of divine arithmetic equation explaining the creation of the world.

In fact, it’s not just a question of believers and non-believers; there are also those who think God’s existence can be proven scientifically. This is the thesis, in any case, of another recent publication by the Portuguese writer José Rodrigues dos Santos, entitled «God’s formula».
The coincidence of these two publications with similar reflections would end there but for the announcement of the amazing discovery of a new particle, as infinitely tiny as infinitely hoped for by the scientists. It is a kind of missing link in the theory of the elementary particles that are supposed to have led to the Big Bang. And what did the scientists name this particle? «God’s particle»! Good God!

It’s as if the scientists, locked in their extremely rational experiments, still can’t shake off the idea of God. Thought, formula, particle… Anyone would think that they were trying to flatter God into fessing up…

Maurice Achard

floraison
Un livre, un film, une musique... quelques années, décennies ou siècles plus tard.
Quand la culture n’en finit pas de fleurir.
  • 03- Floraison

    ©Universal Picture

NEW BLOOD

The film came out in 2012. But only a month after its release an affair between the lead actress Kristen Stewart and the director Rupert Sanders damaged its career. So even though the box-office figures make «Snow-White and the Hunter» one of this year’s success stories, it remains «that film». 

So the time has come to erase everything and give the film its due. First of all it is a fairy-tale that goes way beyond the story we were told as children. Of course the basics are there. The queen, the mirror, the seven dwarves and the poisoned apple. But not where or when you would expect to see them. We know how the story goes but this one still takes us somewhere else. A nice touch. The characters throw us a little also. The «baddies» are beautiful, starting with the Queen. She is intriguing, seductive, fascinating. She is breathtakingly beautiful, sublimely dressed, and is still the most tyrannical witch ever seen in a Snow White adaptation. Her taste for eternal youth is scary but we still fall under her spell. Snow-White, on the other hand has a Joan of Arc side to her. And while perseverance and courage are rewarded, they are also costly. The innocent Snow-White is not that pure, she takes up arms, and she kills.
And she doesn’t end up with Prince Charming! A real surprise! 

While this film may not be the original version, it is a very original version nonetheless. Apparently, a sequel is in the works but the «affair» may have compromised the project. That doesn’t matter, sequels often tend to disappoint and the actress has already bitten all the apples, poisoned and forbidden. Having said that, Rupert Sanders could rework Cinderella or Sleeping Beauty so that we get to rediscover the fairytales of our childhood with the same pleasure. That’s all that matters.

B.A.

Film available DVD and VOD. Click here to watch the trailer: www.allocine.fr

 

 

Métaphore

UNREAL

A sculpture? A painting? A photograph? All of the above… Wander through museums. Galleries animate our gallery. An original series by Clément Jolin. Limited edition prints available. For more info: contact@acharnoeur.com

foodoir
  • 03- Foodoir

    Photo © Odile Berthemy

THE JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE

In French the name is gorgeous - topinambour, it sounds like a magic spell from Mary Poppins or the Sound of Music. But gosh, how ugly! Lumpy, brownish, rough to the touch. Seriously, the Helianthus tuberosus has nothing going for it. Maybe that’s why it’s one of the «forgotten vegetables». We know that those who lived through the Second World War would rather not remember this sturdy and cheap vegetable, no more than its friend the swede or rutabaga as the Americans say, as they bring back memories of the bad old days. And it’s true, the Jerusalem artichoke is easy to grow, even in bad ground, and can be harvested from autumn to spring. It can even proliferate beyond control. The flowers look like big yellow daisies, perched on high, stiff stems that can grow as high as two metres and throw shade on neighbouring plants. We eat the roots, but the tubers can not stay out of the earth very long as they need humidity, otherwise they dry out, go soft and wither.

But times have changed and forgotten vegetables are on their way back. They’ve even become quite chic. This «poire de terre» is also called the «Canadian truffle», even though it has nothing in common with our truffles from the Périgord but because it owes its origins to the American Indians. It was relegated to animal feed for a long time but today is four times more expensive than its competition, the potato that has reigned for decades. Its subtle, slightly sweet flavour somewhere between the artichoke and the salsify has brought it back into fashion. Chefs compete to find ingenious ways of cooking it.

It would also appear that the Jerusalem artichoke is not only good for the health but also for the diet… It contains vitamins A, C and B3, potassium and iron, and above all it is rich in inulins, which helps calcium uptake, reduces fat build-up and cholesterol levels! There are brighter days ahead.

Elido


JUST ‘AD’ MUSIC

 «One, two, three, four…» The choir of kids singing the Beatles tune in the ad for the new Fiat 500 is delightful. «All together now». Not the most famous of the Fab Four’s output, it comes from «Yellow Submarine», but the air comes back to us immediately. Nicely done.

All the same, not that long ago, adverts on TV had their own original soundtracks that often contributed greatly to their success. Won’t Dim tights be forever associated with their «ta ta ta ta ta ta», the jingle that provided a backdrop for women’s liberation? And didn’t Gotainer’s song for «Infinitif» end up being released as a single? Not to mention the «soleil qui va se lever» for Ricoré…

Today, ad agencies go straight to the charts when looking for soundtracks.
There are three categories. Cover versions like James Brown’s «It’s a man’s man’s man’s world» by Joss Stone for Coco Mademoiselle. Then there are the adapted versions. It’s been years since Polnareff’s «tout tout pour ma chérie» became « plus plus» for LCL bank. Or that Caroline Loeb’s «c’est la ouate» mutated into «c’est la MAAF»… And then some brands actually pay for the original version like the Banque Populaire with Stevie Wonder’s «I’m free». Téléphone’s «Un autre monde» is used regularly too, but we forget by whom.

It must be said, things can get confusing. The same «Da da da», the thrilling refrain of a certain Trio, is to be heard on the soundtrack of two adverts that have nothing in common. One for Berocca vitamins, the other for Citroën’s C4 Picasso …
Stereo. Or cacophony. When TV ads are all «inspired» by the same music, they all seem to be singing the same tune. All together now!

M.A.

 

L'Avenue
LA BOUTIQUE EN LIGNE DE L'ACHARNŒUR.
Pour en savoir plus sur les pièces uniques ou
en édition limitée, cliquez sur les différentes vitrines!

Opalis Paris

Since 2001, Opalis Paris has been making hair products that are light years away from the usual aggressive formulae foisted upon us by big industry. Their plant-based and silicon-free shampoos, creams, oils and lotions give off odours that would melt an ice-floe. Another point in their favour, there is no waiting period and they protect and repair our hair like nothing on earth. We’ve been fans for years, we swear by their products and we’re not alone; plenty of stars and women’s magazines have come out in their favour recently.

 

OPALIS SPECIAL OFFER, ONLY FOR L'ACHARNŒUR: 

A shampoo and conditioner... When you buy these two products, Opalis will give you a Booster hair treatment. This treatment, to be enjoyed in the Institut Opalis, has been specially developed to prepare your hair by removing all impurities. You will relax in the hands of an expert and learn the key gestures to optimise the application and benefits of each product. There is no date-limit on this hour-long treatment.

Limited edition offer. Price: 72€ taxes inclued

Institut Opalis - 63, rue de Ponthieu 75008 Paris. www.opalisparis.com

Caractéristiques produit

- The 150 ml shampoo. Options: for greasy hair with essential oils of thyme and rosemary, for dry hair with orange flower water, anti-dandruff with cade oil or for normal hair with Lavender essential oil. 
- The 200 ml conditioner with macadamia oil, wheat germ and sweet almond oil
- The Booster treatment, to be booked in the institute.
All informations : www.opalisparis.com

Gabriella de Galzain

She used to work under the name « Frénétik ». Today Gabriella de Galzain is coming out of hiding and is launching her eponymous brand. She makes baroque, romantic, rock n’ roll jewellery that expresses a bohemian spirit of elegance and freedom, paying homage to the most beautiful icons. Her undeniable talent can be seen in brooches, necklaces, earrings, cuff-links… She counts many stars among her greatest fans and some of her pieces tell the most beautiful stories.

 

A GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

We requested an homage to the Eiffel Tower. Gabriella de Galzain came up with this timeless yet contemporary brooch. The blend of off-whites means it can be worn at all times. Pearls, chains, crystals, ceramic flowers… The codes of elegance and femininity with an essential touch of impertinence. All the audacity of the “Grand Dame” herself.

 

Item made to order. Price: 145€ taxes inclued

 «La Parisienne» brooch

Caractéristiques produit

- Resin beading and icons
- Resin flowers, glass cabochon, crystal Swarovski rhinestones
- Base in silver-plated copper
- Silver-plated brass chains

Vanessa Deutsch

Hats, bandeaus, hair bands, caps... Vanessa Deutsch is a passionate hat designer who reinvents all types of head gear. Her credo: originality, practicality and elegance. Not to mention quality. Vanessa Deutsch’s has exacting standards in terms of materials, when she doesn’t make them herself, and she still does some of the stitching. Her true skills reveal unexpected collections that can dress even the most resistant heads! Hats off!

 

A LIMITED EDITION VANESSA DEUTSCH DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

Among her greatest hits: the Jane hair band. Two leaves, one on the left, one on the right, that are placed naturally on our head to light up our hair with Swarovski glitter powder. Reminiscent of a princess crown or angel wings, this hair-band is now available exclusively for l’Acharnœur in bronze-green.

Limited edition of 15 items. Price: 60€  taxes inclued

 

Jane model in bronze-green.

Caractéristiques produit

- Reworked lace wings with a sprinkle of Swarovski glitter powder.
- Steel hair band covered in black polyester. Thickness: 4 mm
- One size

Uni&Vintage -198€

Behind Uni&Vintage is the eye and imagination of one Christine Ekodo-Delaunay. So, what is her USP? She cuts up vintage clothes, scarves and fabrics, puts them together if needed with a specially dyed satin to help the fabrics blend and makes an entirely new piece. Skirts, shirts, trousers, tunics: the Uni&Vintage line proposes exclusive cuts that fall differently according to colours and prints. As a result, each design is unique and numbered as part of a broader collection.

 

 A UNI&VINTAGE DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

A vintage Lanvin headscarf, satin dyed in verdigris, a « kimono » cut, together form the skirt specially made for l’Acharnœur. The multitude of colours blend delicately as the bands superimpose with modernity. The inner belt is adaptable so the skirt falls perfectly on everyone regardless of size. The outer belt dresses the entire waist for an ultra-refined effect. This piece is number 1045 of the Uni&Vintage brand.

 

One-off piece. Price: 298€ taxes inclued

Uni&Vintage silk and satin skirt. Piece number 1045.

Caractéristiques produit

- Front and outer belt: vintage Lanvin headscarf 100 % silk 
- Back and inner bands: 66% satin and 33% cotton 
- Kimono belt
- Size 2

Lord SM - 180€

Lord SM was set up in 2009, and making luxury from vintage is something they know. It all began with the designer reworking morning suits to make them more « Rock Couture ». Slowly but surely she let her inspiration develop with scarves, bags, leather jackets, tunics, dresses… The terms « Union Jack » or « Mini Jack » are used for the scarves only she knows the secret to. Her « Ring of Fire » scarves are the stuff dreams are made of and we have a total crush on her fringed bags. Her pieces already have a cult following and her Spring/Summer 2013 collection was presented at Tranoï. The world is Lord SM’s oyster.

 

L’ACHARNŒUR CHOOSES

A Mini-Jack in vintage fabric and noble materials. Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet and leather all blended in a unique patchwork. The cut is the result of hours of work, stitching and imagination, which makes it adaptable to all shapes. The model is unisex and universal. 100% made in Paris, 100% Lord SM. New pieces available in the same shades.

 

One-off piece. Price: 180 € taxes inclued

Mini-Jack unisexe Lord SM.

Caractéristiques produit

- Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet, leather, cotton patchwork…
- 60x60 cm
- Folded in a triangle

Émilie Beaussart

Émilie Beaussart’s family have been shoe designers for two generations. And not just from father to daughter. So her passion for footwear came naturally. She first worked as a designer at Yves Saint-Laurent, before launching her own brand a year ago. Her designs are completely hand-made in a Parisian workshop using noble, supple materials to guarantee lightness but above all comfort. Her first collection includes modern designs that are both poetic and obsession-inducing, but always reflect a woman of character.

 

 

L’ACHARNŒUR CHOOSES

Among her limited edition models, we have chosen these ankle boots in calfskin and black patent leather. The arch is measured to keep up with the daily rush of the city dweller. The ankle strap is an original aesthetic touch that keeps the foot perfectly balanced. The curves of the boots and the patent leather are particularly feminine. The pompom and the contrast in materials, between matt and light, bring a note of classicism and mystery.

 

Limited edition, made to order. Price: 595€ taxes inclued

Other photos available on request

Caractéristiques produit

- Black calfskin with patent leather detail
- Leather soles and lining
-125 mm heel with 25 mm inner platform for more comfort
- Zip interior
- Completely hand-made in a workshop in Paris

corruption
Ils nous ont demandé d'en parler.
Comme on a aimé ce qu’ils proposaient, on l’a fait... À notre façon !
  • 03- Corruption/2

    eXLence Literie - 253 bd Jean Jaurès, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt

TIME FOR BED !

In our previous issue, l’Acharnœur’s Good day/ Dog day section was all about dreams, bad and otherwise. If dreams were our only problem… A bad mattress, whether it is too soft, too hard, told old; a bad pillow, whether it is too square, too rectangular, too thin or too thick can seriously affect your sleep! So the battle begins to replace them. Everyone sticks their oar in, new slats, new springs, anti-dust mite treatments… To get off the merry-go-round of too much info, you end up buying something that isn’t too horrible. The easy option, not necessarily the best.

This is where eXLence Literie excels. This new space opened just since June of this year has a radical but simple take. The creators, Bourhan and Daniella Allayous have been sleep specialists for the past 20 years and have chosen to represent only one brand. Which one? Tempur®. And why is that? For its upmarket position and quality. What else? Because it uses a patented material that enables mattresses and pillows to adapt to every morphology: « this material helps to reduce painful pressure points and reduces the nocturnal agitation caused by trying to find a comfortable position » they tell us. Still not convinced? We weren’t either until we walked into the store. One step and you immediately feel lighter. How? You are walking on their Tempur® carpet whose effects have been certified by NASA. Good move, very good move in fact. To prolong the experience, eXLence Literie invites you into its « space cabin »: a double bed, where you watch a 12 minute video about this unique material that takes you to another dimension. Most clients drop off… The effects of the viscoelastic mattress.

Add to that the modern design, the pleasant surroundings, the sales team that spends two hours with you – their average client time slot – and you will under stand that luxe, calme et volupté (luxury, peace and pleasure) is what its all about. And up until December 31st 2012, the 160x200 mattress is the same price as the 140x200. Is that the sandman I hear?

M.V.

For more info:  www.exlence.fr

 
Idylle

PLAY BEFORE EATING

For all those who play games with their chopsticks when eating out. Unmissable!

58€. Box of twelve reusable chopsticks. For sale on www.juliegaillard.com


station

AROMA PARFUMS - PARIS
Métro Etienne Marcel ou Sentier
Ligne 03 ou 04

This perfume store has been in the Montorgueil area for 35 years and is one of the city’s oldest.  But the place is special for other, non-historical reasons. The team here are passionate about rare fragrances that are full of character and propose an astonishing selection of creators and creations. Well-known or lesser-known names take the client on a unique olfactory voyage. A real world of niche perfumes…

Aroma Parfums&Soins
22, rue Etienne Marcel - 75002 Paris

  • 03- Station
quotidien
  • 03- Quotibien

    Photo © Odile Berthemy

THE BREAKFAST CLUB

It surprising the amount of people who declare: «Breakfast is my favourite meal of the day!». Anyone would think they are extras in the Ricoré advert from 1982, «le soleil vient de se lever, encore une belle journée…», with the beautifully set table out in the countryside.  But, seriously, the chances of recreating this idealised situation are slim when it’s still dark, when it’s cold or raining ; when you’re late, stressed or out of sorts… That is to say, pretty often if we are honest. So what makes the moment so special?

In Anglo-Saxon cultures, the breakfast or «Frühstück» table is laden down with food – a way of stocking up on calories to start the day well. Breakfast time is without a doubt a time to be enjoyed, sometimes as an advance consolation, a parenthesis before heading into the difficulties of the day. Often it can be an energy-collecting mission that gets one’s thoughts in order. Everything combines to set the right mood: the smells lift the spirits starting with that of coffee perfuming with lightness even when one isn’t a coffee drinker or the smell of toast that appeals straight to our stomachs… We only eat things we like, as if we were spoilt children. Everything is sweet.

The problem is, in reality, breakfast is a mere fantasy as it is often short-lived and doesn’t spread out before us like butter on toast. How many family scenes have we witnessed with a highly string mother frantically applying foundation in front of the mirror while screaming at her kids to «Hurry up, we’re going to be late!».

But nevertheless, breakfast remains of the utmost importance and is seen as comforting. Whatever the circumstances. We all drink something, even if we don’t eat! A cup of tea or coffee, a glass of juice. The morning drink is our magic potion, our elixir for daily strength and happiness. Roll on tomorrow morning!

Bruno Lancelot

 

junior_suite
Ce que les placards, les murs ou les tiroirs de notre chambre d'adolescent
racontent sur nous aujourd'hui.
  • 03- Junior Suite

    Photo © Corbis

STUCK !

It was everything at once. A sign of belonging and at the same time a sign of differentiation. A fashion accessory and at the same time a unique accessory. It made you dream and travel. The magic of the sticker.

It all started when I got my BMX. The brand gave out stickers to customise the cross bar. It was like an extra present. It didn’t stop after that. With every spare part from the maker or from the competition to customise your bike, you got more stickers. The same went for skateboards, trainers… They were all designed to flatter our eyes and our egos. They told our story, spoke to our passion, expressed our style. They gave us our own identity, the holy grail of any adolescent. But, most of all, they came from far away. That’s what I loved. For the most part, they smelt of California, they tasted like the promised land, the land of sun and pop culture! They had crossed the Atlantic to end up on my helmet or my schoolbooks. That meant so much. I chose each one carefully, drawn to the limited editions but also by the ones with the truly singular shapes, colours and graphics.

I remember using them for everything: to decorate my room, my office, my wardrobe doors… Up until the point when the companies realised how popular they were and starting charging. My interest waned but I had already caught the bug. I started making my own. Then I thought, I could earn a living doing this. So today I design logos and am I still in love with stickers. Maybe not to the same extent. They are easy to find on eBay and the whole country of origin fantasy has gone. Having said that, California is still a dream, but not just to go there, to move there. 

B. A. From an interview with Pierre B.


Collaborateurs

  • Directrice de la Publication et de la Rédaction
    Virginie Achard
  • Directrice Artistique
    Perrine Lebas
  • Concepteur web
    Franck Biehler
  • Chroniqueurs
    Maurice Achard, Bianca Alberti, Bruno Lancelot, Elido, Marie Veyrier, Stéphanie Norris
  • Traductrice
    Tresi Murphy

Invités

PHOTOGRAPHE METAPHORE
Clément Jolin représenté par Olivier Jezequel

PHOTOGRAPHE ÉDITORIAL
Odile Berthemy