edito

The Acharnœur presents its Number 5. Christian Dior’s favourite number and the emblematic number of the Maison Chanel. Will it bring us luck too? Well, it’s already dancing with 12 as the issue date is 12.12.12. Proof that this is no ordinary day. 12 backwards is also a 21, and the news isn’t good that day apparently. Seriously! If the world doesn’t end, we’ll see you on the 26th for our sixth issue. A strange dance!

truc_du_jour

CALENDRIER DE L'AVENT

  • Cal24

    25 décembre. Joyeux Noël! Le calendrier de l'Avent joue les prolongations : envoyez-nous un "Joyeux Noël" par mail à calendrier@acharnoeur.com ce soir minuit. Un tirage au sort parmi les participants aura lieu le 26 décembre. La ou le gagnant pourra bénéficier au choix et gratuitement de l'un de nos services : soit un face à face avec l'un de nos créateurs de Mode&Design, soit la participation à notre prochaine Gastronomie Confidentielle, soit être présent à notre premier Diner Privé, soit un Paris Backstage... Pour en savoir plus sur les services de l'Acharnœur. Pour en savoir plus sur le Calendrier de l'Avent de l'Acharnœur

respect
  • 05- Respect

    Photo © Saught

PIECE AND LOVE

Using metal that comes from leftover anti-personnel mines in Cambodia found at the end of the Khmer rouge regime to make glamorous jewellery. Daring? Upsetting? Unacceptable? Admirable? All of the above. 

Obviously, there is a good cause behind this crazy venture, that of «Saught». This project is the well-meaning brainchild of a handful of people that enables Cambodians in dire straits to work making jewellery while a share of the profits is donated to mine victims and the less fortunate. 

Still. It’s not easy to wear their pieces and to tell the unspeakable horror they come from. Explain that the earrings are made from pieces of an explosive device. You really need to believe in the man, or most probably the woman wearer, and their capacity to prove that fashion and humanitarianism are not incompatible. A touchy subject.

Nevertheless, this is also the strength of Saught, nothing about this non-profit business is oppressive. This is the real difference. As so often, lightness and philanthropy do not make good bedfellows. The companion of the latter is mostly guilt, it awakens a recurring feeling of malaise in us: realising that in our speedy existences, there is little room for «those who suffer». The Christmas period is a particularly heavy time for this, where we find ourselves torn, despite our best intentions, between an awareness of the unhappiness of those who are struggling financially with a backdrop of «there is no salvation without austerity», and an irrepressible need for sequins, pleasure and happy endings… 

Saught is just that, a fairy tale for the modern era. The internet site is relatively elegant, unlike the clichés generally associated with a charity; we are made aware of their charitable efforts without being made to feel miserable. The collections offer graphic and delicate designs; we do not just buy for the good cause, we buy because the pieces are beautiful. In the end, Saught opens a new era: the right to give and experience pleasure, with this little extra for the soul, real generosity. Happy Christmas!

Stéphanie Norris


For further informations : saught.com.sg

beurk
  • 05- Beurk

    Photo © Odile Berthemy

GRAVE BEAUTY

So, you can’t question taste or colour? Let’s anyway. About the nail varnish colours in blue, gray and khaki… They’ve been around for a few seasons already… They have almost become signatures. Marketing has finally managed to impose the trend. Following on from the «rock n’ roll» collections that justified the greens, blues and dark greys, cosmetic companies have started pushing «Nude» ranges of colours with «flesh», «skin» and «natural» for the beiges, greys and taupes. We have moved on now to the «Low Nail», with «delicate», «minimalist», «sweet» colours that sell… beiges, greys and taupes. Nice coup. Not to mention khaki that seems to fit everything. 

Of course, fashion must innovate, dare, tempt. Style bureaus and brands work overtime to renew the genre. Sometimes our principles and wardrobe resist the change, before giving in. That’s part of the game. There is one rule however: looking one’s best. That’s the cruellest blow. Nude varnish or low nails don’t play the game. Maybe they go perfectly with our handbags but they go even better with the paint on the wall. Once they are on and dry, their texture is as «delicate» as plaster. Finally, and most importantly, they are so «minimalist» that they are as sad as the current economy. Are we obliged to avoid any sign of flash to the extent that even our nails are forced into hiding? Made to blend in with the scenery or our bodies? What a shame. Brightly coloured nails scream glamour, deeper colours are mysterious, and transparent nails make you want to take your clothes off. Nail varnish is that touch of femininity that works with jeans and trainers and that remains seductive in a dressing gown. But maybe that’s the problem. Too much pleasure, too much desire, too much lightness. Dullness suits us. Especially at the moment. Bring back colour, what a thought.

Marie Veyrier

billard

WHO'S WHO

Bertin Nahum has just been named the «4th most revolutionary high-tech entrepreneur in the world» by a Canadian magazine. Just behind Steve Jobs, Mark Zuckerberg and James Cameron.
Who? A 42 year old French man who runs a little company near Montpellier that employs about twenty people. He invented a surgical robot that can operate on brain tumours. However, his name hasn’t made headlines. He is known in professional circles, even abroad.

Not surprising. This is the thankless, even unfair fate that scientists and inventors to whom we owe so much usually suffer: public indifference.
Take Tim Berners-Lee for example who, we found out in a book published last year, invented the Web (without which there would be no Internet today). Who knew? This British scientist born in 1955 put the first website online on August 6th 1991. The term «World Wide Web» (www) is his. At the time websites were not registered under .com but under .ch!
The same goes for Steve Sasson, the inventor of the first digital photo. Total unknown. This is what we also could call Nobel prize for Economics, Physics or Chemistry syndrome: unrecognised, finally recognised, and promptly forgotten. 
Steve Jobs, Marc Zuckerberg and James Cameron, all geniuses turned superstars, are the exceptions that prove the rule. 

Tim Berners-Lee, even though he was voted «greatest living Briton» in 2004 and was congratulated by Barack Obama, shouldn’t hold his breath waiting to be mistaken for the new Gutenberg.
Gutenberg?  Forever illustrious, he managed to get his name out there…

Maurice Achard
 
floraison
Un livre, un film, une musique... quelques années, décennies ou siècles plus tard.
Quand la culture n’en finit pas de fleurir.
  • 05- Floraison

    Production : Liberty Films

IN HEAVEN !

If you watch only one film this Christmas, it has to be this one. On your own, as a couple, with your family, with your friends. At home or at the cinema. It has to be seen to truly experience the happiness it gives, the smiles and laughs it provokes, the tears it creates. What film are we talking about? «It’s a wonderful life» by Frank Capra. Not to be confused, under any circumstances with Roberto Benigni’s «Life is beautiful».

Released in 1946, «It’s a wonderful life» by Frank Capra, is an unexpected fairytale. In terms of plot, tone and images. We are brought back to the elegance of the post-war period, the gallantry, the sometimes old-fashioned but amusing traditions… We are carried by a story in which we get to know a number of endearing but strong characters in less than two hours. Among them, an angel who wants his wings…  It is strangely funny, undeniably poignant, and poetically supernatural. And that’s not all. What is the film really about? It’s impossible to reveal without stealing some of its magic.

Magic in the noble not the debased sense of the term. It provokes an «effect that seems irrational by the strength, the intensity of the feeling, of the pleasure and satisfaction it procures». This film makes you happy. For a few hours, it makes you want to jump in the snow, forget all bitterness, to gorge yourself on its feel-good spirit. 

This cult classic is not that easy to find but if you start looking now, it makes an exceptional gift.

Bianca Alberti

- To see the trailer
- To order it on Amazon.com

 

Métaphore

ROSINE

When a toy abandoned on a pavement is adopted by a photographer, its pensive look accompanies him everywhere. Urban landscapes and other familiar decors animated by the presence of  «Rosine», rendered very expressive in Romain Boutillier’s work.

foodoir
  • 05- Foodoir

    Photo © Odile Berthemy

PAPILLOTES PARTY!

 

A lovely Christmas tradition, a bit like the tree, the tinsel, the turkey, the bûche, and even the mandarin oranges. Papillotes. A tradition from Lyon that is still well respected by the inhabitants of the Rhône-Alpes region who eat two-thirds of these sweets in party dresses. Older consumers remember the importance of shiny papillotes that not only gleamed in their shoes but all over the house showing the path taken by Santa Claus…

According to legend, around 1790 in Lyon, the patissier Papillot, whose store was on the place des Terreaux, was stunned to see his chocolate sweets disappearing. One day, he surprised his apprentice who was wrapping them in love letters and passing them up to his beloved through the basement window. Far from angry, the patissier was charmed by the idea and used it as inspiration to invent «les papillotes»: chocolates wrapped in message paper. But he replaced the messages of love by jokes, proverbs and questions.

The rest is a true story. In 1898, the Thomas and Pelen families from Lyon founded the Révillon chocolate factory, taking its name from one of their employees as it resembles «réveillon» (the French term from Christmas or New Year’s eve). Because the end of the year is the boom period for the sale of papillotes. The company is obliged to double up on staff in the Autumn to fill orders for this brand that remains the leader despite the fact that they don’t have a huge export market.

We still get a laugh from the at times tasteful, at times off-colour jokes hidden in the fringed wrappers that twinkle at the slightest movement. Not forgetting the hidden bangers that go off when pulled from either end – a clever way to express the burst of joy ! But while these explosive treats are still on sale, they are produced in much smaller quantities. A security issue ? No big deal, we always have a daring quote from Oscar Wilde to fall back on: «Wisdom means to have sufficiently big dreams so as not to lose sight of them while pursuing them.»

Elido

 

WEATHERING THE QUESTION

 

The weather has become a serious business. «Talking about the weather» doesn’t mean you have nothing to say anymore. Season breaking, hurricane-producing climate change has something to do with it obviously. We mistrust the weather, the changing skies from one region to another. This has encouraged television channels to give more and more detail before and after the news. There is no longer just one weather report, we now have a multitude. Resulting in a wider margin of error for Météo France and contradictions from one media to another. In any case, the French have always thought that «the weather forecast was wrong again…»

This hasn’t stopped France 3 from spending three quarters of an hour on this «à la carte weather forecast» since September at lunchtime. In fact, you have to wait for the last ten minutes to ind out what tomorrow’s weather will be. The rest is given over to unusual reports – a palm grove in the Gers region -, to videos or photos sent in by viewers of the suddenly snow-covered view out of their windows. Sometimes you would think you were watching Jean-Pierre Pernaut, sometimes you would think you are talking about everything and nothing with your television. As if to kill time…

Catherine Laborde, TF1’s weather forecasting star went even further. She began her career as an actress and got back onstage for a one-woman-show entitled «Avec le temps» like the Léo Ferré song. And this time she doesn’t mean the weather, but time passing.
With no forecast about what’s going to happen tomorrow…

 

 

L'Avenue
LA BOUTIQUE EN LIGNE DE L'ACHARNŒUR.
Pour en savoir plus sur les pièces uniques ou
en édition limitée, cliquez sur les différentes vitrines!

Lord SM - 180€

Lord SM was set up in 2009, and making luxury from vintage is something they know. It all began with the designer reworking morning suits to make them more « Rock Couture ». Slowly but surely she let her inspiration develop with scarves, bags, leather jackets, tunics, dresses… The terms « Union Jack » or « Mini Jack » are used for the scarves only she knows the secret to. Her « Ring of Fire » scarves are the stuff dreams are made of and we have a total crush on her fringed bags. Her pieces already have a cult following and her Spring/Summer 2013 collection was presented at Tranoï. The world is Lord SM’s oyster.

 

L’ACHARNŒUR CHOOSES

A Mini-Jack in vintage fabric and noble materials. Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet and leather all blended in a unique patchwork. The cut is the result of hours of work, stitching and imagination, which makes it adaptable to all shapes. The model is unisex and universal. 100% made in Paris, 100% Lord SM. New pieces available in the same shades.

 

One-off piece. Price: 180 € taxes inclued

Mini-Jack unisexe Lord SM.

Caractéristiques produit

- Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet, leather, cotton patchwork…
- 60x60 cm
- Folded in a triangle

Uni&Vintage -198€

Behind Uni&Vintage is the eye and imagination of one Christine Ekodo-Delaunay. So, what is her USP? She cuts up vintage clothes, scarves and fabrics, puts them together if needed with a specially dyed satin to help the fabrics blend and makes an entirely new piece. Skirts, shirts, trousers, tunics: the Uni&Vintage line proposes exclusive cuts that fall differently according to colours and prints. As a result, each design is unique and numbered as part of a broader collection.

 

 A UNI&VINTAGE DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

A vintage Lanvin headscarf, satin dyed in verdigris, a « kimono » cut, together form the skirt specially made for l’Acharnœur. The multitude of colours blend delicately as the bands superimpose with modernity. The inner belt is adaptable so the skirt falls perfectly on everyone regardless of size. The outer belt dresses the entire waist for an ultra-refined effect. This piece is number 1045 of the Uni&Vintage brand.

 

One-off piece. Price: 298€ taxes inclued

Uni&Vintage silk and satin skirt. Piece number 1045.

Caractéristiques produit

- Front and outer belt: vintage Lanvin headscarf 100 % silk 
- Back and inner bands: 66% satin and 33% cotton 
- Kimono belt
- Size 2

Émilie Beaussart

Émilie Beaussart’s family have been shoe designers for two generations. And not just from father to daughter. So her passion for footwear came naturally. She first worked as a designer at Yves Saint-Laurent, before launching her own brand a year ago. Her designs are completely hand-made in a Parisian workshop using noble, supple materials to guarantee lightness but above all comfort. Her first collection includes modern designs that are both poetic and obsession-inducing, but always reflect a woman of character.

 

 

L’ACHARNŒUR CHOOSES

Among her limited edition models, we have chosen these ankle boots in calfskin and black patent leather. The arch is measured to keep up with the daily rush of the city dweller. The ankle strap is an original aesthetic touch that keeps the foot perfectly balanced. The curves of the boots and the patent leather are particularly feminine. The pompom and the contrast in materials, between matt and light, bring a note of classicism and mystery.

 

Limited edition, made to order. Price: 595€ taxes inclued

Other photos available on request

Caractéristiques produit

- Black calfskin with patent leather detail
- Leather soles and lining
-125 mm heel with 25 mm inner platform for more comfort
- Zip interior
- Completely hand-made in a workshop in Paris

Vanessa Deutsch

Hats, bandeaus, hair bands, caps... Vanessa Deutsch is a passionate hat designer who reinvents all types of head gear. Her credo: originality, practicality and elegance. Not to mention quality. Vanessa Deutsch’s has exacting standards in terms of materials, when she doesn’t make them herself, and she still does some of the stitching. Her true skills reveal unexpected collections that can dress even the most resistant heads! Hats off!

 

A LIMITED EDITION VANESSA DEUTSCH DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

Among her greatest hits: the Jane hair band. Two leaves, one on the left, one on the right, that are placed naturally on our head to light up our hair with Swarovski glitter powder. Reminiscent of a princess crown or angel wings, this hair-band is now available exclusively for l’Acharnœur in bronze-green.

Limited edition of 15 items. Price: 60€  taxes inclued

 

Jane model in bronze-green.

Caractéristiques produit

- Reworked lace wings with a sprinkle of Swarovski glitter powder.
- Steel hair band covered in black polyester. Thickness: 4 mm
- One size

Opalis Paris

Since 2001, Opalis Paris has been making hair products that are light years away from the usual aggressive formulae foisted upon us by big industry. Their plant-based and silicon-free shampoos, creams, oils and lotions give off odours that would melt an ice-floe. Another point in their favour, there is no waiting period and they protect and repair our hair like nothing on earth. We’ve been fans for years, we swear by their products and we’re not alone; plenty of stars and women’s magazines have come out in their favour recently.

 

OPALIS SPECIAL OFFER, ONLY FOR L'ACHARNŒUR: 

A shampoo and conditioner... When you buy these two products, Opalis will give you a Booster hair treatment. This treatment, to be enjoyed in the Institut Opalis, has been specially developed to prepare your hair by removing all impurities. You will relax in the hands of an expert and learn the key gestures to optimise the application and benefits of each product. There is no date-limit on this hour-long treatment.

Limited edition offer. Price: 72€ taxes inclued

Institut Opalis - 63, rue de Ponthieu 75008 Paris. www.opalisparis.com

Caractéristiques produit

- The 150 ml shampoo. Options: for greasy hair with essential oils of thyme and rosemary, for dry hair with orange flower water, anti-dandruff with cade oil or for normal hair with Lavender essential oil. 
- The 200 ml conditioner with macadamia oil, wheat germ and sweet almond oil
- The Booster treatment, to be booked in the institute.
All informations : www.opalisparis.com

Gabriella de Galzain

She used to work under the name « Frénétik ». Today Gabriella de Galzain is coming out of hiding and is launching her eponymous brand. She makes baroque, romantic, rock n’ roll jewellery that expresses a bohemian spirit of elegance and freedom, paying homage to the most beautiful icons. Her undeniable talent can be seen in brooches, necklaces, earrings, cuff-links… She counts many stars among her greatest fans and some of her pieces tell the most beautiful stories.

 

A GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

We requested an homage to the Eiffel Tower. Gabriella de Galzain came up with this timeless yet contemporary brooch. The blend of off-whites means it can be worn at all times. Pearls, chains, crystals, ceramic flowers… The codes of elegance and femininity with an essential touch of impertinence. All the audacity of the “Grand Dame” herself.

 

Item made to order. Price: 145€ taxes inclued

 «La Parisienne» brooch

Caractéristiques produit

- Resin beading and icons
- Resin flowers, glass cabochon, crystal Swarovski rhinestones
- Base in silver-plated copper
- Silver-plated brass chains

corruption
Ils nous ont demandé d'en parler.
Comme on a aimé ce qu’ils proposaient, on l’a fait... À notre façon !
  • 05- Corruption

    Photo © Le 6

FASHION TRIP

When «le 66» opened its doors five years ago, the designers had the choice between making this the smallest «department store» or the biggest «concept store» in the capital. They went for the latter. 

Since then, this address at 66 avenue des Champs-Elysées (as in «le 66») has never stopped evolving. The street wear style has shifted to leave space for more prestigious or niche brands at affordable or inaccessible prices. It’s all there. There is only one imperative: le chic. So, tourists attracted by the window displays can enjoy the surprising range and Parisians can revel in the unprecedented selection. 

At the 66, you can find pieces from Acne, Givenchy, Helmut Lang as well as items from Elisabeth and James (designed by Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen), Theysken’s Theory, Jeffrey Campbell (any self-respecting fashionista’s fave shoe brand) or more off-radar brands like Golden Goose or Band of Outsiders. So you can wander through the different completely refurbished or stark spaces and find totally irresistible or exclusive pieces that the 66 has spotted and displays as a look. This is the real difference. Are other stores taking inspiration? Whatever. The 66 renews 25% of its brand catalogue each season…
And to be sure to keep a few unique pieces, the 66 has its own line called «Abraham Will». Limited editions of exceptionally high quality at reasonable prices… Looking for more? So that you can fully appreciate the 150 brands (approx), the sales staff are veritable Personal Shoppers that know who and what they’re talking about. They can find you something to fit your personality that you can try on in the spacious changing rooms and take all the time you need. 

You can’t walk past the 66, whether you are a tourist or a native, a browser or a buyer… A piece of advice: take the time to enjoy each hanger. Having said that, 66 usually means the road trip will be good…

M.V.
Idylle

CHATEAU DE VERSAILLES

A shadow play that tells beautiful stories. An original, simple accessible and royal gift ! 

14€. Available on www.boutique-chateauversailles.fr. 


station

WALLPAPER / GIFT WRAPPING
International
Website

Because all Christmas gifts are not wrapped in store, because finding nice motifs can take hours of searching, because quality paper that doesn’t rip at the slightest movement is hard to come by, we went looking elsewhere. We went looking for wallpaper ! This site has an amazing collection, not necessarily seventies style, and sells by the roll or by the A4 sheet. Even the prices are reasonable.

www.papierpeintdesannees70.com

 

  • 05- Station
quotidien
  • 05- Quotichien

    Photo © Pierrette Ruthon

HYGIENE ISSUES

When choosing a cafe or a restaurant, the criteria are simple: the menu, the decor, the welcome, and the prices. So it goes. We have a tendency to forget one, which while it might be secondary is no less significant: the toilets. Here, we have no intention of going into the use of the location but we aim to enable everyone access a clean and pleasant place. 

Let’s start with the lighting. Most probably to keep energy costs down, owners are putting in timers on the lights. Why not. The problem is, the thirty-second time-frame is pretty tight. And it’s not easy to flap your arms around to try and get the lights back on. Then we have the toilet seat issue. Between paper covers you put on yourself, the ones that change automatically by pressing a button or DIY disinfectant, there are enough solutions available to make the place welcoming. Nevertheless, many establishments ignore the issue altogether.

As for toilet paper holders, some times there isn’t one. The lovely roll is on the floor, exposed to shoe prints and other urinary incidences. Irresistible. Then we come to hand-washing. When the only option is freezing water, it’s ideal. Not to mention that once your hands are well wet, you notice that the soap dispenser is empty and the hand dryer is out of order. Of course, in these conditions a nice-smelling candle or a hook to hang up your bag would be too much to ask.

The saddest thing of all is the certainty that these examples are familiar to everyone. And the standing of the place has nothing to do with it. We’ve all experienced unspeakable situations in the chicest of locations. And the opposite. But really what we are dealing with here is the management’s lack of care and consideration. In one instant, the client is brought back to the vicissitudes of everyday life. You wanted a break, welcome to the sewer!

B.A.

junior_suite
Ce que les placards, les murs ou les tiroirs de notre chambre d'adolescent
racontent sur nous aujourd'hui.
  • 05- Junior Suite

    Photo © Odile Berthemy

RORO THE HERO

In my adolescent jungle, I had machetes, weapons, ceremonial feathers, and a little stone elephant from the Gabon… In short, my room was a depository of ethnical African objects brought back in the fifties by my grand-uncle, a family legend. He joined a cargo ship as telegraph operator at the age of sixteen, lived in the savannah, and came face to face with a real lion…

When he came back to France, he brought a leopard along that had to be handed over to the Jardin des Plantes and a totally mute parrot with astonishing longevity as it outlived my grand-uncle. Obviously, I found all of this fascinating and it fuelled my dreams of adventure.

I started speed-reading the «Bob Morane» series, my childhood hero with his faithful «alcoholyte», Bill Ballantine the Whisky sponge. These two officially mandated travellers following the yellow shadow all over the world really had only one serious competitor: Bond, James Bond. I saw myself as Roro the hero. 
However, on the announcement of an addition to the family, unwelcome as far as I was concerned, my room became the theatre for warrior adventures and punitive expeditions resulting in the a flooded carpet due to a radiator perforated by a harpoon. This was followed by the destruction of the foam frame on my seventies-style bed using a Matakam weapon. Only the walls survived my arrow, nail, thumbtack and spear attacks. Later on, the collection of adventure novels was relegated to the cellar, my enthusiasm shifted to African statues hunted down at the flea market early on Saturday mornings. Then to exchanges with other collectors… Until I finally got to travel myself to Tanzania, India, and Sri Lanka… Adventure from all sides !

Today, I’m still ready to travel anywhere. But I’ll never be an ex-test pilot, or an Aston Martin driver. Still, I’m pretty good with a scalpel, I grew up to be a surgeon ! 

Bruno Lancelot. From an interview with R.S.
 

Collaborateurs

  • Directrice de la Publication et de la Rédaction
    Virginie Achard
  • Directrice Artistique
    Perrine Lebas
  • Concepteur web
    Franck Biehler
  • Chroniqueurs
    Maurice Achard, Bianca Alberti, Bruno Lancelot, Elido, Marie Veyrier, Stéphanie Norris
  • Traductrice
    Tresi Murphy

Invités

PHOTOGRAPHE METAPHORE
Romain Boutillier

PHOTOGRAPHES ÉDITORIAL
Odile Berthemy, Pierrette Ruthon

CHRONIQUEUR
Stéphanie Norris