edito

Number 6. A number between two celebrations, three if we count the galette des rois. A number between two years as it comes out in 2012 but is still up in 2013. But this is far from an in-between number. It takes another trip around the little nothings and big little everythings of the everyday affairs that we like to highlight, in homage or to damage. See you on January 9th!

truc_du_jour

Sapin de rue

  • HNY

    01 janvier 2013. Toute l'équipe de l'Acharnœur vous souhaite une année de petits bonheurs, grandes émotions, belles aventures... Le tout saupoudré d'une santé sans faille et d'un porte-monnaie bien rempli. À très vite!

respect
  • 06- Respect

    Photo © Picture Net / Corbis

WISH YOUR BEST!

«I wish you a very Happy New Year!». While the phrase seems hackneyed, it’s still nice to hear. Things get complicated when it is followed by the more introspective: «What should we wish you?» Strangely, it is the only time that wishes can be said aloud without worrying that they won’t come true. Even more strange is that these wishes are definitely not unattainable. We don’t wish for impossible things as if we were wishing on a shooting star. We wish for serious things to help us move forward in life. 

But these wishes come true through resolutions. Nothing comes from nothing. You can’t expect to attain an objective without putting in the effort, want to win the marathon without running a little every week. These resolutions are the viable part. And often, they commit us to constraints, to complicated face-offs. So, before even starting, we retreat. More and more often, we hear «My New Year’s resolution is to make no resolutions!». One thing is sure, disappointment is impossible. 

And that’s all? We give up? We stop believing? We put everything into a little box, lock it and throw it overboard? We let ourselves drift along without any bets on our futures? No way. We need to rework the road map. To consider that perhaps resolutions are not burdens but our best chances for hope and action. On condition, of course, that we don’t set ourselves impossible challenges. As very often, «resolution» rhymes with «unfeasible». To mark a change, we can’t help but go to extremes. As if a U-turn was a symbol for renewal. And that is where things go wrong.

Why not avoid making decisions that are doomed to failure and chose realism? A resolution could then become your best card, your trump. Any bets?

Marie Veyrier

beurk
  • 06- Beurk

    Photo © NielsDK / Imagebroker / Corbis

SERIAL FLOWERS

Perfume. That «trail of desire», as Christian Dior defined it, that leaves an imprint, a memory behind each person; that essence that escapes differently from everyone’s skin, and signs a presence an emotion. This personal touch that we all look for, try, adopt… This part of oneself. But. Perfume has become such an industry that everything that makes it exceptional is floating away on the fumes of the profits being made.

This proliferation has lead to the unpleasant impression that creating a perfume no longer requires the slow and meticulous research to find the olfactory combination that will make it so unique. The image of the «Nose» working in his laboratory, experimenting different extracts and blends to reveal the most beautiful head, heart and base notes has been tarnished. 

Today, the shelves are overflowing with fragrances that are as neutral as their names. As if the mention of a simple flower –Vanille, Violette– or a variation on a myth like «Mademoiselle» or «Noir» was enough to entice our nostrils. Perfumers are even changing the categories: Opium is now available as an eau de parfum, eau de toilette and, since the end of February, as perfume vapours. Things are getting a little foggy. 

But that’s not the worst. It follows that the market must also comply. Perfumes that don’t sell as well disappear without warning. From one day to the next, we are bereft. Completely. Heartbreaking for those who are still pining for Deci Delà by Nina Ricci to give only one example and the orphans desperately seeking it on the web. As for Yves Saint-Laurent’s «Nu», it disappeared four years ago only to resurface in another bottle. A way to play with our senses.

Thankfully, the stalwarts remain. Not so fast. The European Commission made the industry and clients shudder in November when it declared it was to examine the presence of allergens in certain blends such as Chanel n°5 or Dior Addict. We are assured this was not the case. That it is merely a question of opening a dialogue with the cosmetology industry. Something smells bad.

Bianca Alberti
 
billard

LETTER FROM SANTA

26/12/12

Hello everyone!
Well, that’s it for another year. I must admit, this year’s tour was a strange one. First of all, I found out that I couldn’t get in to a school in Montargis as the principal wishes to «respect the beliefs and values of the secular school». Thankfully, the mayor reminded her that I have no religious connotation. But this was a first… my white beard went whiter… 
And then, there was the story of the 8500 chocolate mousses from the school canteens in Le Havre that were thrown in to the bin. The reason given was that they contained pork gelatine and as such could not be considered suitable for all religions. So be it. But the other option was to keep them chilled so that I could redistribute them to other kids who would have been overjoyed to eat them. Throwing chocolate out in December! Am I running the risk of having my sleigh checked for papilottes !

Well, I just kept doing what I was doing. Even when I heard that more and more French people were selling off their presents to be able to pay for Christmas. Do I need to become Santa Claus for grown-ups too ? To bring a little red and white when they are feeling blue…
All the more so when in a collège in Charente, third year students were asked to write a composition entitled : «Put yourself in the shoes of a young eighteen-year old man who decides to commit suicide». An alternative Christmas tale ? I would have had him hanging himself from a Christmas tree…

Seriously, I have never had such a depressing 24th of December. But I held on and did the job, to make sure some still believe.

Happy New Year!

Santa (pcc. Maurice Achard)

 

floraison
Un livre, un film, une musique... quelques années, décennies ou siècles plus tard.
Quand la culture n’en finit pas de fleurir.
  • 06- Floraison

    Photo © l'Acharnœur

EVERYTHING IN NOTHING

It’s a completely useless book. It’s as well to say it now. It tells no story and provides information that we would never have gone looking for. But, as strange as it might seem, it is far from uninteresting ! Finding the description a bit tiresome ? The title won’t help : «Schott’s original miscellany» by Ben Schott.

So what’s a miscellany ? A collection of diverse writings, whether literary or scientific. And this is why you need to read Mr. Schott’s. It has everything. And most particularly things that are totally useless. «A unique collection of essential nothings» according to its editor. You can open it on any page, so no great level of concentration required, and see what it offers to teach us. 

For entertainment’s sake, we can read about the British tax on hats or the official suppliers to Her Majesty Queen Elisabeth II. To sharpen your general knowledge you find out about the ten plagues of Egypt, the seven seas or the different styles from gothic to cubist. For everyday information, we get a reminder of blood type compatibility and clothes size conversions. To keep up to date, we find the complete origin of the word «arobase» in the French version or text abbreviations. And to show off at parties, one can brush up on various and unexpected subjects that will turn us into the wittiest conversationalists, such as «Did you know what the different colours light up the Empire State Building every night ?». You no longer have to dread a pregnant pause or a lull in the conversation.

And even if this book leaves you completely indifferent, it’s a little delicate thing. On a coffee table, it becomes a decorative object with it’s traditional style cover that even has a mobile phone. Surprising to the last.

B.A.
 
Métaphore

URBAN

She is an air hostess but never leaves home without her camera. Her vision creates surprising images that tell of city, architecture and customs. Karen Prosnier is starting to show her work in Paris. Today she is making a stopover in Metaphor. All aboard.

Tirage signé et numéroté 45x30 cm : 75€. More informations : contact@acharnoeur.com

foodoir
  • 06- Foodoir

    Poster © FITDG. Fernando Iannicelli Traczuk.

     

FERNET BRANCA

Foie gras, stuffed geese, galantines and ballottines… that leave us bloated, after making our mouths water ! Not to mention the morning afters with headaches and hangovers… It’s not over yet, we still have the galette des rois to get through, who knows how many… It’s enough to make your stomach heave. Bring on the ginger to avoid the nausea. 

Thankfully we still have «the hair of the dog»: the very bitter tonic Fernet Branca, a formidable 40° before or after dinner drink invented in Italy around 1836 by Bernardino Branca (and probably elaborated with the help of a chemist called Fernet). La Fratelli Branca Distillerie, founded in Milan in 1845 is a family-owned business that is still going – sanctified by the collective unconscious if we believe what the «mamas» say according to the writer Cavanna*: «The brothers Branca invented it. The Madonna appeared to them and she told them the formula and showed them the place, their signature is on the bottle …» In France, the Fernet Branca distillery near Mulhouse, closed its doors in 2008 to become a contemporary art foundation.

This magic potion that some find undrinkable would revive a corpse. It made by infusing over twenty plants and aromatic herbs: gentian, camomile, angelica, aloe vera, myrrh, mint, saffron, etc. But there’s no point in looking for the complete recipe, the label tells us nothing. Fernet Branca, still according to Cavanna «No one can imitate it, it is impossible, because it is made with secret plants […] and if they are not picked by an Italian, it doesn’t work, it won’t heal anything, it will choke you.» The emblem is an eagle carrying a map of the world, the undeniable symbol of supernatural strength: «prolonga la vida» !

This beverage was once only available in the pharmacy. Today, we find it in wine shops. There is no risk of over-consumption: due to it’s particular taste, it can only be drunk in moderation… The Argentineans have cleverly invented a national drink by mixing it with coca cola: the Branca and Coke! Two mysteriously formulated beverages for the price of one. There’s no stopping the lobbies…  * in his book «Les Ritals», (Pierre Belfond, 1978)

Elido

 

FACTS OF «LIVE»

It was just the other weekend. Live television reminded us, not once but twice, to what extent it truly characterises television.

It enabled Bruce Toussaint to change his second-to-last issue of «Vous trouvez ça normal ?» on France 2, at the last minute following on from the events in Newtown three hours earlier. Normal reflex? In any case, not that easy: the presenter, who is also a journalist, was able to integrate this impossible subject into his usually noisy and entertaining talk show. The studio audience were as silent as the grave, listening carefully to the guests’ calm contributions. Proof yet again that anything can happen on live television.

Another unexpected event, less fundamental but just as exemplary : on the RTL-LCI-LE FIGARO jury, with guest Christian Jacob, President of the UMP group at the Assemblée nationale. During an interview, news came down the wire from AFP to say that François Fillon had responded positively to a proposal from Jean-François Copé, who was present in the studio. He was immediately asked for a reaction… Sitting in the audience amongst other friends of Jacob’s he was no longer exactly the same, less on automatic pilot, not as stiff, embarrassed. Providing the programme nevertheless with a nice and unexpected moment of life and spontaneity.

So, we wonder how Christophe Hondelatte, a highly strung journalist, agreed to tape his weekly Sunday debate programme on one of the new TNT channels - «Numéro 23» ! Between the day it taped, Monday, and the day it aired, Sunday, we had the Depardieu affair and the tragic events in Newton… An epic fail for it’s first outing. He took the same risk last week of missing the end of the world. Except, he didn’t miss anything. But that’s no excuse.

Live television is an art. A tightrope walk. Without a net. A change from the pre-recorded clowns.

Maurice Achard
 
 
L'Avenue
LA BOUTIQUE EN LIGNE DE L'ACHARNŒUR.
Pour en savoir plus sur les pièces uniques ou
en édition limitée, cliquez sur les différentes vitrines!

Lord SM - 180€

Lord SM was set up in 2009, and making luxury from vintage is something they know. It all began with the designer reworking morning suits to make them more « Rock Couture ». Slowly but surely she let her inspiration develop with scarves, bags, leather jackets, tunics, dresses… The terms « Union Jack » or « Mini Jack » are used for the scarves only she knows the secret to. Her « Ring of Fire » scarves are the stuff dreams are made of and we have a total crush on her fringed bags. Her pieces already have a cult following and her Spring/Summer 2013 collection was presented at Tranoï. The world is Lord SM’s oyster.

 

L’ACHARNŒUR CHOOSES

A Mini-Jack in vintage fabric and noble materials. Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet and leather all blended in a unique patchwork. The cut is the result of hours of work, stitching and imagination, which makes it adaptable to all shapes. The model is unisex and universal. 100% made in Paris, 100% Lord SM. New pieces available in the same shades.

 

One-off piece. Price: 180 € taxes inclued

Mini-Jack unisexe Lord SM.

Caractéristiques produit

- Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet, leather, cotton patchwork…
- 60x60 cm
- Folded in a triangle

Uni&Vintage -198€

Behind Uni&Vintage is the eye and imagination of one Christine Ekodo-Delaunay. So, what is her USP? She cuts up vintage clothes, scarves and fabrics, puts them together if needed with a specially dyed satin to help the fabrics blend and makes an entirely new piece. Skirts, shirts, trousers, tunics: the Uni&Vintage line proposes exclusive cuts that fall differently according to colours and prints. As a result, each design is unique and numbered as part of a broader collection.

 

 A UNI&VINTAGE DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

A vintage Lanvin headscarf, satin dyed in verdigris, a « kimono » cut, together form the skirt specially made for l’Acharnœur. The multitude of colours blend delicately as the bands superimpose with modernity. The inner belt is adaptable so the skirt falls perfectly on everyone regardless of size. The outer belt dresses the entire waist for an ultra-refined effect. This piece is number 1045 of the Uni&Vintage brand.

 

One-off piece. Price: 298€ taxes inclued

Uni&Vintage silk and satin skirt. Piece number 1045.

Caractéristiques produit

- Front and outer belt: vintage Lanvin headscarf 100 % silk 
- Back and inner bands: 66% satin and 33% cotton 
- Kimono belt
- Size 2

Émilie Beaussart

Émilie Beaussart’s family have been shoe designers for two generations. And not just from father to daughter. So her passion for footwear came naturally. She first worked as a designer at Yves Saint-Laurent, before launching her own brand a year ago. Her designs are completely hand-made in a Parisian workshop using noble, supple materials to guarantee lightness but above all comfort. Her first collection includes modern designs that are both poetic and obsession-inducing, but always reflect a woman of character.

 

 

L’ACHARNŒUR CHOOSES

Among her limited edition models, we have chosen these ankle boots in calfskin and black patent leather. The arch is measured to keep up with the daily rush of the city dweller. The ankle strap is an original aesthetic touch that keeps the foot perfectly balanced. The curves of the boots and the patent leather are particularly feminine. The pompom and the contrast in materials, between matt and light, bring a note of classicism and mystery.

 

Limited edition, made to order. Price: 595€ taxes inclued

Other photos available on request

Caractéristiques produit

- Black calfskin with patent leather detail
- Leather soles and lining
-125 mm heel with 25 mm inner platform for more comfort
- Zip interior
- Completely hand-made in a workshop in Paris

Vanessa Deutsch

Hats, bandeaus, hair bands, caps... Vanessa Deutsch is a passionate hat designer who reinvents all types of head gear. Her credo: originality, practicality and elegance. Not to mention quality. Vanessa Deutsch’s has exacting standards in terms of materials, when she doesn’t make them herself, and she still does some of the stitching. Her true skills reveal unexpected collections that can dress even the most resistant heads! Hats off!

 

A LIMITED EDITION VANESSA DEUTSCH DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

Among her greatest hits: the Jane hair band. Two leaves, one on the left, one on the right, that are placed naturally on our head to light up our hair with Swarovski glitter powder. Reminiscent of a princess crown or angel wings, this hair-band is now available exclusively for l’Acharnœur in bronze-green.

Limited edition of 15 items. Price: 60€  taxes inclued

 

Jane model in bronze-green.

Caractéristiques produit

- Reworked lace wings with a sprinkle of Swarovski glitter powder.
- Steel hair band covered in black polyester. Thickness: 4 mm
- One size

Opalis Paris

Since 2001, Opalis Paris has been making hair products that are light years away from the usual aggressive formulae foisted upon us by big industry. Their plant-based and silicon-free shampoos, creams, oils and lotions give off odours that would melt an ice-floe. Another point in their favour, there is no waiting period and they protect and repair our hair like nothing on earth. We’ve been fans for years, we swear by their products and we’re not alone; plenty of stars and women’s magazines have come out in their favour recently.

 

OPALIS SPECIAL OFFER, ONLY FOR L'ACHARNŒUR: 

A shampoo and conditioner... When you buy these two products, Opalis will give you a Booster hair treatment. This treatment, to be enjoyed in the Institut Opalis, has been specially developed to prepare your hair by removing all impurities. You will relax in the hands of an expert and learn the key gestures to optimise the application and benefits of each product. There is no date-limit on this hour-long treatment.

Limited edition offer. Price: 72€ taxes inclued

Institut Opalis - 63, rue de Ponthieu 75008 Paris. www.opalisparis.com

Caractéristiques produit

- The 150 ml shampoo. Options: for greasy hair with essential oils of thyme and rosemary, for dry hair with orange flower water, anti-dandruff with cade oil or for normal hair with Lavender essential oil. 
- The 200 ml conditioner with macadamia oil, wheat germ and sweet almond oil
- The Booster treatment, to be booked in the institute.
All informations : www.opalisparis.com

Gabriella de Galzain

She used to work under the name « Frénétik ». Today Gabriella de Galzain is coming out of hiding and is launching her eponymous brand. She makes baroque, romantic, rock n’ roll jewellery that expresses a bohemian spirit of elegance and freedom, paying homage to the most beautiful icons. Her undeniable talent can be seen in brooches, necklaces, earrings, cuff-links… She counts many stars among her greatest fans and some of her pieces tell the most beautiful stories.

 

A GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

We requested an homage to the Eiffel Tower. Gabriella de Galzain came up with this timeless yet contemporary brooch. The blend of off-whites means it can be worn at all times. Pearls, chains, crystals, ceramic flowers… The codes of elegance and femininity with an essential touch of impertinence. All the audacity of the “Grand Dame” herself.

 

Item made to order. Price: 145€ taxes inclued

 «La Parisienne» brooch

Caractéristiques produit

- Resin beading and icons
- Resin flowers, glass cabochon, crystal Swarovski rhinestones
- Base in silver-plated copper
- Silver-plated brass chains

corruption
Ils nous ont demandé d'en parler.
Comme on a aimé ce qu’ils proposaient, on l’a fait... À notre façon !
  • 05- Corruption

    Photo © Le 6

FASHION TRIP

When «le 66» opened its doors five years ago, the designers had the choice between making this the smallest «department store» or the biggest «concept store» in the capital. They went for the latter. 

Since then, this address at 66 avenue des Champs-Elysées (as in «le 66») has never stopped evolving. The street wear style has shifted to leave space for more prestigious or niche brands at affordable or inaccessible prices. It’s all there. There is only one imperative: le chic. So, tourists attracted by the window displays can enjoy the surprising range and Parisians can revel in the unprecedented selection. 

At the 66, you can find pieces from Acne, Givenchy, Helmut Lang as well as items from Elisabeth and James (designed by Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen), Theysken’s Theory, Jeffrey Campbell (any self-respecting fashionista’s fave shoe brand) or more off-radar brands like Golden Goose or Band of Outsiders. So you can wander through the different completely refurbished or stark spaces and find totally irresistible or exclusive pieces that the 66 has spotted and displays as a look. This is the real difference. Are other stores taking inspiration? Whatever. The 66 renews 25% of its brand catalogue each season…

And to be sure to keep a few unique pieces, the 66 has its own line called «Abraham Will». Limited editions of exceptionally high quality at reasonable prices… Looking for more? So that you can fully appreciate the 150 brands (approx), the sales staff are veritable Personal Shoppers that know who and what they’re talking about. They can find you something to fit your personality that you can try on in the spacious changing rooms and take all the time you need. 

You can’t walk past the 66, whether you are a tourist or a native, a browser or a buyer… A piece of advice: take the time to enjoy each hanger. Having said that, 66 usually means the road trip will be good…

M.V.

For more informations : le 66

Idylle

MAKE TIME

For the late-comers, a diary unlike any other. It is tiny, it also has a really practical outer pocket for business cards, pens, erasers…

 

15€. For sale at Mr. Fish, 9 rue Clauzel, 75009 Paris and on www.mr-fish.fr

  • 06- Idylle
station

RESTAURANT - LA CLUSAZ
Skibus "La Serraz"
Line D

Established in 1910 by François Pollet-Thiollier this restaurant was once a sawmill, hence the name. It closed in 1973, and reopened its doors in 1999 thanks to the great grandson of M. Pollet-Thillier and his wife who decided to make this magical place into a restaurant. In cosy surroundings with huge wooden beams, impressively high ceilings and bay windows, one can savour divine regional dishes. For pre or post dinner drinks, the sofa in front of the huge fire finishes off the fairytale. A little corner of heaven in the mountains.

Restaurant La Scierie
331 Route du Col des Aravis74220 La Clusaz
04 50 63 34 68 - www.la-scierie.com‎

  • 06- Station
quotidien
  • 06- quotichien

    Photo © l'Acharnœur

LUNAR DAY

 Well. After sweating to find all the presents, you then had to tackle the fateful moment of the unwrapping. Getting all the toys, robots, board games out of their boxes and setting them up, regardless of what state the previous night’s meal left you in.

The bravest began by setting up the pirate ships or princess castles. Two hours, no more, no less, to check that all of the screws delivered in batches of fifteen and three sizes were all there, to find the instructions for the instructions, to attempt to connect all the recalcitrant pieces… transforming the living room into a battleground for those adventurous enough to walk through in their socks.
The smart ones chose the games with batteries, noticing that you’re always missing one. Despite their relief at managing to avoid the high pitched sirens of the police car, the noise of from the electronic piano or the light sabre, they quickly head off in search of the missing AAAA, R06 or RC14S, according to the manufacturer’s nomenclature, to put an end to the incessant tears and whining. Remote controls, cameras, radios : all plundered for a few minutes peace…
The traditional ones put in the time and effort to manage to get enough participants around the table, keep them concentrated long enough to explain the always complex rules involving pawns, cards, dice, egg timers, when all they really wanted to do was take a nap.

But isn’t that just what Christmas is all about ? You don’t want to get off the ship or out of the castle, wanting to stick the stickers on ourselves. You’re still playing Darth Vador and the Jedi with the grown-ups. You don’t notice the time going as there’s always «just one more game»… What about the kids? They’ve figured out that lending is the easiest option. But while you’re waiting to get your inner adult back, they are quietly playing with the ipad you got but haven’t managed to figure out yet. Adventure for all! 

M.V.

 

junior_suite
Ce que les placards, les murs ou les tiroirs de notre chambre d'adolescent
racontent sur nous aujourd'hui.
  • 06- Junior Suite

    Photo © l'Acharnœur

TRUST FOR TRUST

My sister was nine years older than me. No matter how much soup I ate, I couldn’t bridge the gap. She began by welcoming me into her doll’s world then my high-pitched screams started to get on her nerves and she left me to my occupations.

I never played in my room, it bored me. I played in the living room until one day I realised that there was one room in the house that I had never set foot: my sister’ room. I took advantage of her absence in town one afternoon to launch my expedition. I was scared, I don’t really know why, as I sneaked into her room. 

A bitter smell made my nose sting. My cousin had had the great idea to give her some of the low-cost cigarettes he got from his regiment. I was standing in a real seventies teenage bedroom. I had taken the first step and survived. So I plucked up some more courage and started to rummage through her drawers, wardrobe, I read a few of her letters but didn’t understand much, I stole a few bits and bobs – stickers, an eraser and a tract for a demonstration against Poniatowski – and I was just about to make my getaway when I spotted the turntable. Nadège spent hours in her room listening to music. What could be so extraordinary about these discs that Touchatou (sticky fingers) as she called me, was forbidden from touching? I was about to find out. My mind was opened up to politics listening to «Let my people go» by Esther Galil and to the amazing world of the Beatles. There were indeed many hidden treasures in this room and how many others were under the piles of socks and scratchy vests? I began to search with more effort, pulling everything apart until I found something. 

«So, what did you find ?». It was Nadège, home earlier than expected.  «The secret of girls, but I promise I won’t tell anyone». And I didn’t. You can’t change the world at the age of nine, but by keeping my word I learned to be a confidant. And later on, that of my friends.

Christophe Ribeyre

 

Collaborateurs

  • Directrice de la Publication et de la Rédaction
    Virginie Achard
  • Directrice Artistique
    Perrine Lebas
  • Concepteur web
    Franck Biehler
  • Chroniqueurs
    Maurice Achard, Bianca Alberti, Bruno Lancelot, Elido, Marie Veyrier, Stéphanie Norris
  • Traductrice
    Tresi Murphy

Invités

PHOTOGRAPHE METAPHORE
Karen Prosnier

PHOTOGRAPHES ÉDITORIAL
Odile Berthemy, l'Acharnœur

CHRONIQUEURS
Stéphanie Norris, Christophe Ribeyre