edito

Issue n° 7 and the first of the year 2013. We’re all back on the runway. Good for us! Here at the Acharnœur we love the runway and we’re ready to take off with a few little surpises in l’Avenue, Station and Bribery sections, do a flyover of current events and new subjects, and make a soft landing with some great classics… Next issue on January 23rd.

truc_du_jour

  • 07- News qui court

    9 janvier 2013. Un nom qui sonne comme un message. Une plaque de rue qui vaut bien plus qu'une goutte d'or...

respect
  • 07- Respect 4

    Photo © Jefferson Hayman/Corbis

WEIRD PRACTICES

«2013, année de la baise !» (2013, year of the bonk !). So the first rhyme of the year was chosen with the utmost delicacy. While it seems to promise plenty of tumbles in the hay, some will only see the 13, bad luck in a number. Seriously, who believes that rubbish ? Superstition is a bit like a fear we can’t control. There is the hysterical fear of mice, the skin-crawling provoked by spiders and the inexplicable fear of bread placed upside down on the table. Should we be disdainful though? If we own up, we all have our little superstitions. Let he or she who has never said «touch wood» or «avoid that black cat», throw the first stone! In everyday life, superstitions are everywhere but go unnoticed. And the number 13 is a very good example: no row 13 in some planes, no 13th floor in buildings, and no row 13 in some planes, no 13th button in lifts, and no room numbers ending in 13 in some hotels… But does that really matter ?  

Superstitions inevitably lead to some ridiculous behaviour: throwing salt over one’s shoulder, walking around ladders… But this means that they live on and, if we dig a little, bear witness to our cultural heritage. Why is it bad luck for a black cat to cross your path ? Because in the middle ages, cats were notorious plague carriers. The black is added to witch things up.  We finish with Napoleon who apparently had a black cat cross his path the night before his defeat at Waterloo and that’s it… Everything is impregnated with a reference. 

Superstitions wreck our lives and that’s why we don’t like them? They have nevertheless led to some mighty challenges. Christian Dior, to take only one example, decided to accept the offer to open a couture house in his own name as the day before meeting his investors, while walking with his doubts through the streets of Paris, he came across a little metal star, the vestige of a sewer plaque. He took the sign to be positive and followed the star. Everyone knows what happened next. The story is true and all the nicer with this anecdote. So is superstition the mother of little fairytales? Good for the superstitious.

Marie Veyrier

beurk
  • 07- beurk 2

    Photo © Odile Berthemy

GRILLED

The rich have such a bad name at the moment that hoping to pocket a little or a lot of money is seen as the highest form of stupidity. The latest adverts for the Lotto are even passing on the message : «The life of a winner can hold some surprises». What surprises ? A sports car that is so low slung that you can’t reach the parking ticket dispenser without scraping the door or blocking the path… A luxury (again) two-seater car that regrettably prevents you and your co-pilot from picking up a stereotypical but irresistible hitch-hiker… A huge pool that is useless as you are alone in the middle of it because all your friends still have jobs to go to… Between looking like a total imbecile or a loser, we choose in the end to stick to our thin wallets, rich in friendship and living on love and fresh air. The best.

Come on. No one would turn down a few extra and unexpected pennies to help make ends meet and not have to make sacrifices. And while this isn’t possible for most of us, the Lotto, Euromillions and other super draws used to let us make the most extravagant plans for our millions, for a day anyway. We could almost see ourselves dressing up as a chicken to say «Goodbye boss» like in the old adverts, lying back on a blow-up mattress in the middle of a pool declaring «Life is fair after all !» We were carefree, smiling, «crazy»… And while millions were not going to land on our doorstep, these little imaginative getaways were like an enchanted interlude. Not to mention the fact that the conversations could easily include those who didn’t play lotto. A sort of pleasant and incongruous unanimity was created, all the more if we remember the original subject, winning money. But goodbye, calf, cow, pig. Dreaming of riches is no longer a dream. What else is in store ?

Bianca Alberti
 
billard

GOLDIES BUT OLDIES

«Elle court, elle court, la maladie d'amour…» (Lovesickness is going round… ) while it wears out, according to Michel Sardou that just re-recorded it for his new greatest hits album. Indeed, it does seem all the better for the refined listening comfort, in the musical range that envelops the voice, in the general amplitude. But where’s the point?

Among the ex-young singers, quite a few are bringing out re-recorded versions of their big hits from times gone by. A way of forgetting their 50 year careers and and finding long-lost emotions in the warmth of the studio? A real sickness. Serge Lama has just fallen «malade, complètement malade» (sick, totally sick) on his new album, «La balade du poète» pushing the perfectionism to the point where he actually changes a verse of «D'aventure en aventure» ! «Elles m’ont même trouvé beau» (They thought I was handsome) replaced by «Je leur ai même fait l’amour» (I even made love to them): a poetic ellipse sacrificed for a banal specification. Absolute madness. One should never touch the words of songs that represent moments that, without them, would disappear forever. 

On a recent album with other sonic remakes Hugues Aufray sailed away again on the «Santiano» but the wind has died down and he is singing it from the pier.
Not to mention Enrico Macias who chose, like others before him - Delpech, Lenorman -, to go down the route of the celebrity duet with the stars of today. As if this could hide their attempts at a comeback. The result is a cutesy version of «Gens du Nord» with Carla Bruni…

These new versions show their age, much more than the originals whose lively heart is still beating. 

So to all the granddads who don’t want to stop, and why should they, repeating yourselves is not the answer!

Change the record…

Maurice Achard


floraison
Un livre, un film, une musique... quelques années, décennies ou siècles plus tard.
Quand la culture n’en finit pas de fleurir.
  • 07- Floraison

    Ida Rubinstein, inspiratrice du Boléro. Portrait par A. de La Gandara.

17 MINUTES

It’s the type of piece one hears for the first time at school. The one where the teacher is on a mission to get you to like it while explaining it’s experimental side. The problem is that young ears tend to only hear the same musical loop over and over by different instruments for seventeen minutes. So the piece passes us by. And then, one day, you hear it and it hits the bull’s eye. Ravel’s Boléro.

You realise that it has in fact been with you for years. Not as «on hold» or «elevator» music. The Boléro has been spared the sacrilege that has infected some of the greats like Vivaldi’s Four Seasonsas it was published for the first time in 1929, and is still protected in France until  2016. So it has become a lullaby, a hymn or a reference in a more subtle manner. Most certainly the drum that from beginning to end, sets the tone while never changing rhythm until the final section. Unforgettable and inimitable.

The tone? Ravel’s Boléro is the perfect alchemy between tranquillity, tension, power, mystery, strength, magnificence. It begins slowly, picks you up and takes you away. It is repetition that doesn’t repeat itself. A unique tempo that nevertheless gives the impression that it is speeding up and slowing down. It follows on, but is never the same. A little like our days ? Well, like they could be in any case. If our everyday life seems insipid, Ravel’s Boléro teaches us how, with few elements at our disposal, a re-beginning can be a beginning, a leitmotiv can be an evolution. In fact, it almost tells us how life, with one thing after another, can be continually enriched. In seventeen minutes. 

M.V.
 
• Lesson to the Boléro de Ravel
• See the Ballet (2 parts)
 
 
 
Métaphore

PORTRAITS OF WOMEN

One actress, Sofiia Manousha, currently appearing in two films including «Le noir (te) va si bien» and short-listed for Revelations César 2013. One photographer. Two women who felt the need to show facets of femininity. A series signed Patience Priso.

Make up/hairstyle: Siam Zaoui- Clothes : Antik batik except dress and tee shirt (American Apparel)- Jewellery: Marion Mille- Thanks to Tigrane for the set.

foodoir
  • 07- Foodoir

    Photo © Odile Berthemy

THE KING’S SHARE

Marzipan or brioche? If you claim that the only true galette is the brioche, you are giving away your southern roots. If you are for marzipan, your roots are northern, or Parisian. And if you go for a biscuit base, you are from the west. Whatever happens, you will not escape the galette des rois that goes on sale before the new year and stays around for a month at least.

For the most part, it is made with puff pastry and butter. The story goes that the marzipan filling was brought to France by Marie de Médicis from her native Italy but the variations don’t stop there: galettes stuffed with apples, chocolate… As for the brioche des rois, it is crown-shaped of course, and decorated with jewels of preserved fruit and other sweet things.

The «non stop» galette eating means we tend to forget it really is supposed to be eaten on the Epiphany, set on January 6th by Pope Julius II. It is now celebrated on the first Sunday after January 1st.

In Greek, Epiphany means «apparition». For Christians, it represents the presentation of the baby Jesus to the Three Wise Men. This is why the little fève hidden in the galette, which was actually a real bean at first, was represented by a little baby Jesus in his cradle and swaddling clothes. Today, the figurines are bursting with originality. Especially since an ingenious entrepreneur, Joseph Perron, an ex-employee in a Peugeot factory set up the company Prime in 1989 and became the leader in the production of figurines for galettes. Every year, over twenty million of these painted porcelain miniatures are made in Asia. The diversity of the range which goes from lucky charms to film characters goes down well with fève-fans, collectors of the year’s series. The only person who can never get the fève is the Président de la République. Since 1975, the Élysée’s galette is fève-less so that the President can never be crowned ! 

The youngest guest is always the one who picks who gets what piece. «Avoir de la galette» means to be rich or fortunate, we wish it for all of you this year…

Elido
 
 

LITERARY ENTRY

It reopens on Thursday January 10th at 20:35 on France 5.
And we will be queuing outside the door as we are each week, the impatient faithful.

François Busnel’s  «La Grande Librairie» follows on from it’s prestigious literary forerunners and has done for some time. It is even the worthy successor to «Apostrophes» we were all waiting for, except it is not on a hugely popular channel even though it does go out in the early evening slot.
Times have changed, the best formulas remain: a thematic link between the guest authors, a presenter who has actually read the books, a choice of writers that is, every time, like a bouquet of words, of phrases. We were even treated to, Patrick Modiano, Jean Echenoz and Pascal Quignard, three Goncourt winners, together on the same programme! You can’t put a price on it.

François Busnel does not do «Pivot» however. He has his own way of listening, acting, reacting, going from one to the other, flicking through his bookmarks, and starting all over again. Without ever losing the flicker of a smile that seems to be already enjoying the next question…

«La Grande Librairie» is not long enough. Each of the four writers gets a quarter of an hour, which makes about a hour-long programme. Pivot had easily an hour and a half.

So to the decision-makers at France 5: we want more Busnel!

M.A.

L'Avenue
LA BOUTIQUE EN LIGNE DE L'ACHARNŒUR.
Pour en savoir plus sur les pièces uniques ou
en édition limitée, cliquez sur les différentes vitrines!

145€

GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN

 

She used to work under the name « Frénétik ». Today Gabriella de Galzain is coming out of hiding and is launching her eponymous brand. She makes baroque, romantic, rock n’ roll jewellery that expresses a bohemian spirit of elegance and freedom, paying homage to the most beautiful icons. Her undeniable talent can be seen in brooches, necklaces, earrings, cuff-links… She counts many stars among her greatest fans and some of her pieces tell the most beautiful stories. 

 

 

 A GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

We requested an homage to the Eiffel Tower. Gabriella de Galzain came up with this timeless yet contemporary brooch. The blend of off-whites means it can be worn at all times. Pearls, chains, crystals, ceramic flowers… The codes of elegance and femininity with an essential touch of impertinence. All the audacity of the “Grand Dame” herself.

 

Item made to order. 
Price: 95€ instead of 145€ taxes inclued

«La Parisienne» brooch

Caractéristiques produit

- Resin beading and icons
- Resin flowers, glass cabochon, crystal Swarovski rhinestones
- Base in silver-plated copper
- Silver-plated brass chains
- Icon high : 10cm
- Total high (with chains) : 24 cm 

120€ au lieu de 180€

LORD SM

 

Lord SM was set up in 2009, and making luxury from vintage is something they know. It all began with the designer reworking morning suits to make them more « Rock Couture ». Slowly but surely she let her inspiration develop with scarves, bags, leather jackets, tunics, dresses… The terms « Union Jack » or « Mini Jack » are used for the scarves only she knows the secret to. Her « Ring of Fire » scarves are the stuff dreams are made of and we have a total crush on her fringed bags. Her pieces already have a cult following and her Spring/Summer 2013 collection was presented at Tranoï. The world is Lord SM’s oyster.

 

 

 

L’ACHARNŒUR CHOOSES

 

A Mini-Jack in vintage fabric and noble materials. Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet and leather all blended in a unique patchwork. The cut is the result of hours of work, stitching and imagination, which makes it adaptable to all shapes. The model is unisex and universal. 100% made in Paris, 100% Lord SM. New pieces available in the same shades.

 

One-off piece. 
Price: 120€ instead of 180 € taxes inclued

Mini-Jack unisexe Lord SM.

Caractéristiques produit

- Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet, leather, cotton patchwork…
- 60x60 cm
- Folded in a triangle

40€ au lieu de 60€

VANESSA DEUTSCH

 

Hats, bandeaus, hair bands, caps... Vanessa Deutsch is a passionate hat designer who reinvents all types of head gear. Her credo: originality, practicality and elegance. Not to mention quality. Vanessa Deutsch’s has exacting standards in terms of materials, when she doesn’t make them herself, and she still does some of the stitching. Her true skills reveal unexpected collections that can dress even the most resistant heads! Hats off!

 

 

 

A LIMITED EDITION VANESSA DEUTSCH DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

Among her greatest hits: the Jane hair band. Two leaves, one on the left, one on the right, that are placed naturally on our head to light up our hair with Swarovski glitter powder. Reminiscent of a princess crown or angel wings, this hair-band is now available exclusively for l’Acharnœur in bronze-green.

 

Limited edition of 15 items. 
Price: 40€ instead of 60€ taxes inclued

 

 

Jane model in bronze-green.

Caractéristiques produit

- Reworked lace wings with a sprinkle of Swarovski glitter powder.
- Steel hair band covered in black polyester. Thickness: 4 mm
- One size

190€ au lieu de 298€

UNI&VINTAGE

 

Behind Uni&Vintage is the eye and imagination of one Christine Ekodo-Delaunay. So, what is her USP? She cuts up vintage clothes, scarves and fabrics, puts them together if needed with a specially dyed satin to help the fabrics blend and makes an entirely new piece. Skirts, shirts, trousers, tunics: the Uni&Vintage line proposes exclusive cuts that fall differently according to colours and prints. As a result, each design is unique and numbered as part of a broader collection.

 

 

A UNI&VINTAGE DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

 

A vintage Lanvin headscarf, satin dyed in verdigris, a « kimono » cut, together form the skirt specially made for l’Acharnœur. The multitude of colours blend delicately as the bands superimpose with modernity. The inner belt is adaptable so the skirt falls perfectly on everyone regardless of size. The outer belt dresses the entire waist for an ultra-refined effect. This piece is number 1045 of the Uni&Vintage brand.

 

One-off piece. 
Price: 180€ instead of 298€ taxes inclued

Uni&Vintage silk and satin skirt. Piece number 1045.

Caractéristiques produit

- Front and outer belt: vintage Lanvin headscarf 100 % silk 
- Back and inner bands: 66% satin and 33% cotton 
- Kimono belt
- Size 2

72€ avec massage offert

OPALIS PARIS

 

Since 2001, Opalis Paris has been making hair products that are light years away from the usual aggressive formulae foisted upon us by big industry. Their plant-based and silicon-free shampoos, creams, oils and lotions give off odours that would melt an ice-floe. Another point in their favour, there is no waiting period and they protect and repair our hair like nothing on earth. We’ve been fans for years, we swear by their products and we’re not alone; plenty of stars and women’s magazines have come out in their favour recently.

 

 

OPALIS SPECIAL OFFER, ONLY FOR L'ACHARNŒUR: 

 

A shampoo and conditioner... When you buy these two products, Opalis will give you a Booster hair treatment. This treatment, to be enjoyed in the Institut Opalis, has been specially developed to prepare your hair by removing all impurities. You will relax in the hands of an expert and learn the key gestures to optimise the application and benefits of each product. There is no date-limit on this hour-long treatment.

 

Limited edition offer. 
Price: 72€ taxes inclued.

Institut Opalis - 63, rue de Ponthieu 75008 Paris. www.opalisparis.com

Caractéristiques produit

- The 150 ml shampoo. Options: for greasy hair with essential oils of thyme and rosemary, for dry hair with orange flower water, anti-dandruff with cade oil or for normal hair with Lavender essential oil. 
- The 200 ml conditioner with macadamia oil, wheat germ and sweet almond oil
- The Booster treatment, to be booked in the institute.
All informations : www.opalisparis.com

 

Indisponible

ÉMILIE BEAUSSART

 

Émilie Beaussart’s family have been shoe designers for two generations. And not just from father to daughter. So her passion for footwear came naturally. She first worked as a designer at Yves Saint-Laurent, before launching her own brand a year ago. Her designs are completely hand-made in a Parisian workshop using noble, supple materials to guarantee lightness but above all comfort. Her first collection includes modern designs that are both poetic and obsession-inducing, but always reflect a woman of character.

 

 

L’ACHARNŒUR CHOOSES

 

Among her limited edition models, we have chosen these ankle boots in calfskin and black patent leather. The arch is measured to keep up with the daily rush of the city dweller. The ankle strap is an original aesthetic touch that keeps the foot perfectly balanced. The curves of the boots and the patent leather are particularly feminine. The pompom and the contrast in materials, between matt and light, bring a note of classicism and mystery.

 

Limited edition, made to order.
Not available for the moment. 

Émilie Beaussart boots

Caractéristiques produit

- Black calfskin with patent leather detail
- Leather soles and lining
-125 mm heel with 25 mm inner platform for more comfort
- Zip interior
- Completely hand-made in a workshop in Paris

corruption
Ils nous ont demandé d'en parler.
Comme on a aimé ce qu’ils proposaient, on l’a fait... À notre façon !
  • 07- Corruption2

    Two adopted and personalised hives. Photo © monmiel

THE HONEY AND THE BEES

So you want to be in great shape to get through the darker winter months ? A good spoonful or spread of honey on your toast has always provided some much-needed vitality… Except, if things go on like this, honey will end up as a luxury product ! Go on like what ? Not protecting our bees. They are coming under serious threat : parasites, pesticides… Sad !

In an attempt to stop the plague, a number of companies have been set up to propose the adoption of hives. A bucolic and poetic concept that also happens to be effective! Interested ? Well, check out monmiel.fr.

To begin with, the founder is a true nature and bee-lover. He buys land and small parcels of forest to set up his hives in protected environments. He ensures the sources of pollen in the environs and lets the bees work away as they wish: free, with their own rhythms and feeding on all flowers. 
Then, monmiel.fr has a very clear offer: either you sponsor a number of bees – and as such a part of the swarm – or you adopt a full hive. If you choose the latter option, the ruche « belongs » to you for as long as you wish: you can name it, choose the colour, the shape and no-one else can adopt the same hive (which is not always the case elsewhere). You are kept abreast of all developments, photos are sent… A nice way of doing things!
What happens to the honey? It’s all yours ! according to the formula you choose, you will receive a certain number of pots that are, in the case of an adoption, labelled with the name of your hive ! They are sent to your home after harvest which takes place only once the bees have finished working. The bees decide, no-one else… 

The final bonus, the cost. It covers, for the main part, the manufacturing of the French-made wooden hives, to buy equipment, pots, maintain the land… Nothing excessive. So there’s no sting in the tail…

M.V.


• For more informations : www.monmiel.fr

• Little gift for l'Acharnœur readers' :
sponsor 4000 bees or adopt a full hive in "formule "Découverte", one honey pot in sup is offert.
 
Idylle

EDWARD HOPPER

For those who weren’t lucky enough to see the exhibition at the Grand Palais, this high quality book goes over each piece.

 

45€. On sale at www.boutiquesdemusees.fr

  • 07- Idylle
station

MASSAGE INSTITUT - PARIS
Metro Jules Joffrin
Line 12

Valentine Doky was one of our Advent calendar guests. A professional masseuse, she used to work in five star hotels before bringing her knowledge and experience to her own institute. Your comfort is given top priority, beginning with the shower where clients love to wash away all the bad vibes before picking up some good ones. After a massage that lasts an hour and fifteen minutes, adapted to each client’s needs, Valentine brings you back to reality with a hot drink. Happiness.

Valentine Doky
27, rue Hermel - 75018 Paris
06 65 04 42 18

Namecheck the Acharnœur when booking before March 31th 2013 and your massage is 65€ instead of 80€ ! English and Dansih spoken.

 
  • 07- Station
quotidien
  • 07- Quotibien 2

    Photo © Odile Berthemy

STRESS ATTITUDE

Even though every season magazines bring out special editions on our daily stress levels with questionnaires and solutions as to how to deal with them, nothing works. Having said that, recommending that we «take some time off for ourselves» when there isn’t enough time in the day for work, kids, friends, shopping, cooking, they are not very realistic. The only solution: live with it ! With plenty of humour of course…

Stress is good as it prevents us from sleeping. And that’s how you get a little «me» time. Rather than fighting insomnia, you finally get to read the books people have been recommending for months, watch DVDs of films you missed when they were in the cinema, get into knitting – especially as you bought the wool and the needles ages ago -, painting or any other activity that you’ve been dying to try to reveal another facet… So stress brings out your sleeping, underlying passions.

Stress is good because it affects the appetite. The best diet ever. Without even realising it, the pounds fall off ! Well, not so much as stress can also make you eat. Well, let’s try to use it positively by finally bringing some variation to our diets by eating our five a day, seeing as how we never actually managed to fit them into our meals !

Stress prevents concentration and can create memory problems. Seriously, this might not be all bad. You have a ready-made excuse : «Sorry I missed your birthday but at the moment my head is all over the place…».

Finally and above all, stress leads to confusion in the brain. In the case of excitement, pain or orgasm, the pituitary gland and the hypothalamus secrete endorphins. Among other things. The neurotransmitter is the one that creates a feeling of well-being. Have you never noticed that sometimes the physical manifestations are the same whether you are feeling stressed or happy? In the first instance you say you have «a pain in the stomach», in the second, you say you have «butterflies in the stomach».

So it’s a simple question of perception, between mood and humour.

M.V.

 
junior_suite
Ce que les placards, les murs ou les tiroirs de notre chambre d'adolescent
racontent sur nous aujourd'hui.
  • 07- Junior Suite

    Photo © Odile Berthemy

FOOTLOOSE!

You have shoe fetishists and tights fetishists. I’m a sock fetishist ! It all began at a christening. Not mine, that of the daughter of friends of my parents. That day, I was dressed in a little shirt with a round collar –and it wasn’t the fashion like it is today–, a little pleated skirt, sandals and little white socks… with pink pompoms! While everyone was doting over my «Triplets» inspired outfit, I was over the moon with my little wool balls bobbing on my heels. Maybe because it was the only slightly original note in my outfit, the sock became my signature. 

I followed all changes and trends. It may not be noticeable but there are as many trends in socks as in handbags. Feathers, sequins, lace stitching, with Tex Avery characters, Burlingtons, the ultra-low – sport version-, the ultra high over-the-knee sexy version-, in silk thread, fine cotton, fuzzy on the inside… My father was dedicated to black socks – through discretion and faithfulness to Eddy Mitchell’s old band while I wore them white and slightly baggy like Michael Jackson. I had, and still have, socks for boots, trainers, leather shoes and those I wear inside. I still buy some just for their colour or their pattern… A real obsession !

But socks are all part of a show! I remember my mother had a stripy pair with separate toes. They were too big for me but they were my dream. They made me laugh. So they inspired me. When my nephews were young, I often made foot puppets with just a pair of socks that helped me tell endless crazy stories. They still talk and laugh about them. So, there you have it. My passion for socks. When you choose them well, your shoes fit well. And if the shoe fits…

B.A. from an interview with Marie A.

Collaborateurs

  • Directrice de la Publication et de la Rédaction
    Virginie Achard
  • Directrice Artistique
    Perrine Lebas
  • Concepteur web
    Franck Biehler
  • Chroniqueurs
    Maurice Achard, Bianca Alberti, Bruno Lancelot, Elido, Marie Veyrier, Stéphanie Norris
  • Traductrice
    Tresi Murphy

Invités

PHOTOGRAPHE METAPHORE
Patience Priso

PHOTOGRAPHES ÉDITORIAL
Odile Berthemy, l'Acharnœur

CHRONIQUEURS
Stéphanie Norris